either a Type R or a spec, I went with the 3+ which is a full face clutch. It can be driven but there is a slight grab when taking off no matter how gentle you are, the clutch has no slip and I'm sure it will last 10 years of beatings. My clutch died the first time I went down the 1/4 mile, vs a supercharge V6 Mustang at work with hundreds of passes on the STOCK clutch... <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/zeroforum_graphics/screwy.gif" BORDER="0"> <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vortexmediagroup.com/images/banghead.gif" BORDER="0"> Spec 3+ is a $1000 bucks takes about 12 hours to change by myself at an oldman pace. a shop with a lift could do it much quicker.
I hate IM as it is so limited in space, but the spec II might be a better buy, I have had bad luck with kevlar but it maybe worth a try. the extra bucks for the 3 don't pay off because it does NOT come with a sprung hub even so why did I end up paying $250 more for it <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/confused.gif" BORDER="0"> no kit either you get a disk and plate that is it, fab your own alignment tool. <p>torque wrench... no don't use one on a clutch change, never have, I also don't use power tools so maybe I'm not a total hack. IMO a good mechanic can judge the proper torque and um this is a trans not con rod bolts.<p>All and all this is an easy but long trans job.