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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
As summer approaches I have finally had my H20/MeOH injection system installed. Had my Indy do it, 'cause they're smart 'n stuff. I took my time after I bought the kit from Viva http://www.vivaperformance.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=81_99&products_id=808 to figure out what I needed and where to put stuff. I have a Bell FMIC and it has an interesting two piece adapter bung for jets, located in the cold IC pipe before the AIT sensor. Essentially, it can take the Aquamist jets (M8) or take out the center piece and it's 1/8 NPT. I ended up converting the 1/4 inch tubing the kit came with to a 6mm OD tubing setup so I could use the 90 degree quick connect with the .8mm Aquamist jet. The existing area on my FMIC could not accept the longer AEM jet setup, it would hit the chassis. I bought the bushings to convert to 6mm tubing, a tank tap (I didn't like the tap included in the kit), a check valve for the 6mm tubing, and the 90 degree jet from Howerton Engineering. http://www.howertonengineering.com/ I also purchased the inline filter from AEM:


and found some adapters to be able to screw the 1/8 BSP threaded 6mm bushings into the 1/4 NPT threaded filter housing:



The "injection active" LED is in the driver's side A/C vent, next to my boost gauge and I had a "master power" switch put on as well in case I don't want the kit active. Location wise, the pump and filter are mounted under the plastic cover next to the air-box. It may not be the best place for the pump, they say nearer the tank would be better, but this area is easily accessible and the pump seems to work fine here. My advise to putting a kit like this in would be to take your time to make sure you have the parts you need for install, especially the jet location/type for the FMIC you have. So far, seems to be working great with the pre-mixed 49/51 meth/water solution I have:

I want to do some dyno pulls soon, I am a little worried about my timing belt though, as I am pushing 76,000 miles, so I may have it changed first.
Now, zee photos:







 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
But dyno is smiling...well...you know what I mean. Between the DP and the meth injection the caR is running quite strong. I like it, I like it a lot.
 

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Nice install, pretty much exactly how I installed Aquamist, except I got the DDR - 3 flow monitoring gauger and mounted it using the CFW door pod. The single light really does the same job for a lot less $$ though. I also wired in a kill switch just in case, but I left it under the hood attached by Velcro to the strut bar.

I also have a Bell IC and used their bung for the jet, I did have to special order a jet because the one that came with the kit did not fit, but that was not really a big deal as Aquamist makes their jets with 2 different thread sizes and the second one fit. I also put black plastic split wire loom the entire length of the hose from the washer tank to the pump to avoid any possibility of the hose getting chaffed and leaking.

I don't have a quick connect attachment to the jet though, I like how you did yours. Finally I am running a .7mm jet with a 50 /50 distilled water / methanol mix (finding methanol locally in Atlanta is a PIA though)

Aquamist made my car a lot smoother under boost, as well as holding 20 to 21 PSI as long as I want to keep my foot in it, but I really need to get to a track to take full advantage of it
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Nice install, pretty much exactly how I installed Aquamist, except I got the DDR - 3 flow monitoring gauger and mounted it using the CFW door pod. The single light really does the same job for a lot less $$ though.
Yeah, the LED gets more intense and flow increases with the progressive controller this kit uses. Seems to work pretty well.

I also have a Bell IC and used their bung for the jet, I did have to special order a jet because the one that came with the kit did not fit, but that was not really a big deal as Aquamist makes their jets with 2 different thread sizes and the second one fit. I also put black plastic split wire loom the entire length of the hose from the washer tank to the pump to avoid any possibility of the hose getting chaffed and leaking.
The split loom is not a bad idea, especially for me in the area between the bottom of the tank and the under-body tray.

I don't have a quick connect attachment to the jet though, I like how you did yours. Finally I am running a .7mm jet with a 50 /50 distilled water / methanol mix (finding methanol locally in Atlanta is a PIA though)
I just had Devil's Own ship me some premix, not the cheapest way to do it, but I want to see how fast I use the boost solution to better weigh my options. I calculated jet size requirement as closer to .9mm for me, but went a little conservative and stepped down to the .8mm.

Aquamist made my car a lot smoother under boost, as well as holding 20 to 21 PSI as long as I want to keep my foot in it, but I really need to get to a track to take full advantage of it
I'm still testing out my install, but I do plan to take occasional advantage of full boost. :)
 

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If you live in or near a major metropolitan area google around for area chemical suppliers. You may be able to buy 5 gallon containers of meth for a reasonable price compared to other sources.

Your all's posts are getting me all motivated to get back on my controller project. :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
^Yeah, it's just kinda wasted space otherwise. The pump and filter are easily serviceable here.
 

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I'm just about to puchase my AEM water/meth and this setup is exactly what I'm looking to do. What did you use to tap the WW reservoir and where can I purchase it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
I like the ones that you can push into the proper size hole that you drill, then tighten to expand the bushing that makes the seal. I have a Devil's Own tap. The AEM kit comes with a tap, but I don't think it is as easy to install as some of the others I've seen.
 

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Bob, did you wire the battery + to an ignition source or full time B+? Also, what did you end up setting your starting boost PSI and max PSI to? I was thinking 10 and 18.
 

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Bob, did you wire the battery + to an ignition source or full time B+? Also, what did you end up setting your starting boost PSI and max PSI to? I was thinking 10 and 18.
I'm not bob, but I wired my water meth into the 15 amp circuit for the corner lighting. It is an ignition on circuit that functions no matter what position the headlight swich is in, and I feel better that it isn't connected to a ECU or electronic module control function. I would say with an aftermarket intercooler and upgraded boost don't spray any lower than 12 psi and on the stock intercoolers 10-10.5psi Then maxing your spray 1.0 psi below max so even as boost drops a hair you can ensure that you are maintaining max flow. So I would suggest 12-18 psi, it will help conserve fluid and will give you the added boost in cooling and power as heat starts to build.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
The pump connection is to constant 12v+ on the battery, the controller is connected to an "ignition on" source in the fuse box above the driver's foot-well. I bought a simple illuminated switch to put in-line with the controller power to disable the kit as necessary. I start spraying at about 6-7 psi and max out at about 18-19 psi. I find that with my normal driving I go through about 1/2 gallon of solution per tank of gas. There's nothing wrong with starting the spray at a higher psi as KMG_S60R recommended; I wanted to give the pump a chance to get going a little quicker since it's located so far away from the WW tank in my setup, which works, but is not ideal.
 

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I'm doing my setup the same way you have yours. I tapped into the WW tank with the DevilsOwn tank tap, I ran my line along my front mount lower bracket and then up near the cold side piping. Like you I mounted the pump under the cover of nothing, or shall I say the cover of water/meth, and then ran the line over to my injector on the cold side piping. I am curious if you have had any issues with the solution draining back to the tank with the pump mounted that high or if I need to install a check valve down below?
 

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I'm doing my setup the same way you have yours. I tapped into the WW tank with the DevilsOwn tank tap, I ran my line along my front mount lower bracket and then up near the cold side piping. Like you I mounted the pump under the cover of nothing, or shall I say the cover of water/meth, and then ran the line over to my injector on the cold side piping. I am curious if you have had any issues with the solution draining back to the tank with the pump mounted that high or if I need to install a check valve down below?
Aems kit has a check valve in the nozzle brah
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I have found that the pump can loose prime somewhat when it's mounted in this location, but it's not a critical problem since the car isn't tuned for meth anyway. It's more like a loss of "consistency" in the progressive flow curve when the pump first comes on while everything gets properly primed-up and running. Not a big deal, works ok, and I like keeping the pump in the engine bay and using the WW tank for the solution.

To update my thread a bit, I have since installed the AEM failsafe flow-gauge and changed the setup somewhat. I took out the AEM in-line filter, since the Devil's own WW tap I'm using now has a screen on it anyways, and I am using the 1/4 inch tubing and connections instead of the 6mm tubing I initially started with all the way to my Aquamist check valve where it is secured with an Oetiker clamp to keep it from leaking. I have 6mm tubing connected to the output of the check valve which enables me to use their 6mm angled jet adapter that I needed for my application. The flow gauge is handy and I like seeing what's going and that everything is working.
 

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I ordered a devils own check valve to put near the tank to prevent losing prime. I am currently running into a few issues with the install. The led was flashing once and then twice, showing fluid level error and pump driver open error. I ended up switching my B+ source to the cigarette lighter for all of my necessary ignition controlled B+ and the 2 flash error went away. I am however still getting a low fluid level error. I am using the WW tank and am not using a level sensor. I have the 2 wires currently open, should I wire them together to get rid of this code?
 
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