[mkd28]

My radio says dolby premium system when it starts up. I don't think I have a sub, it would be in the trunk right?

Anyway. I have some 8in sony's that I was thinking of putting on the trunk deck behind the rear seats. has anyone done this? How did you wire them etc.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Adrenaline406]

Been considering the same. Would probably just wire them in parallel to something coming off of the amp in back there.

Keep in mind, the reason door speakers work so well is because of the cabinet that the door creates. The trunk is a very large cabinet, so the speakers might not function the best without some kind of an enclosure.

 

[mkd28]

I did not know there was an amp in the trunk. I would not have the slightest clue what wires to tie off.

I use an FM transmitter hooked to my phone for music and all I get from the rear speakers is static if they are on. the front speakers are very clear, so I would want to tie into those for power I think. I may just wire a separate sub to the trunk speaker and use that specifically for ipod. IDK

 

[Adrenaline406]

I'm not the best source on audio for these cars, except for mine. But on the driver's side of the trunk there is an amp that is used for the stock speakers. If you find one of the subwoofer write ups it will show you exactly what I am talking about. They should also show you what wires to tap off of for the rear speakers.

 

[MyNameIdeasWereTaken]

If you're looking for performance sound, I'm not the guy to help.

However, I have the basic sound system and Melvin has a good sticky on installing rear tweeters. Using that thread, I spliced into the tweeter wires to power 4" trunk deck speakers.

Strategically placed for the sound waves to bounce off the rear windscreen, it has definitely added to a more "full" sound in the cabin.

The brown wire is what I ran to the Kenwood speakers.

Make sure you wear gloves when working on this, there's a layer of fiberglass under the trunk deck carpet. I didn't realize it at first... Stuck my arm up there to pop up the carpet and I was itching for days.

 

[FosgateLife]

Okay please....just STOP. Never never NEVER wire anything to another speaker in the car. If your looking for performance sound I AM THE GUY. I know everything about our cars and could tell you every little thing. The first problem i see here is, trunk deck lids SUCK for high quality sound. !!! Forget that whole idea. They sound like poop! i could go on and on about information but im going to tell you exactly what you need to do:
Upgrade your door speakers. WE HAVE COMPONENT SYSTEMS!! Seperate mid range and tweeter!!! So you either- A) get a component system or-B) make your own! ~~~ thats what i did!. I have Crescendo PWX 6.5's (mid range) in my front doors and AudioQue AQ 6.5's in my rear doors. Then i have Hertz HT-25 soft neo dome tweeters. What i was going for was loud semi- sound quality. For my sub stage i have a Fi SSD 12 with a PSI P2 Recone. 2.3 cu ft box tuned to 30 hz ( i like the lows) and a Rockford fosgate T1500-bdcp.
If your looking to upgrade, my full suggestion would be get a sub stage. Doesnt have to be big but make it something that will hit the lows. This means be prepared to shell out about 3-400 in just the sub and box for a simple GOOD setup.. And another 300-400 in all 4 mid ranges and all 4 tweeters. Plus be ready to shell out around 500 for some decent sub stage and mids/highs amps. And plus around 150 in AWG OFC wiring. Good stuff isnt cheap!
This is just suggestions. Im actually usuing my stock ampto power my rear doors still, with crossovers and stuff its not hard to do it right.

1 question- are you planning on a sub stage? (You NEEEEEEEED one in our cars)

 

[FosgateLife]

@MyNameIdeasWereTaken you do some amazing work, but audio is not one of them!! Lol sorry i had to say it, first of all, running those kenwoods off the rear doors can mess with the ohm loads, protection in the amps, and power distribution. NEver ever ever do this!! Your car could turn into a blazing electrical fire!

 

[FosgateLife]

I have some hook ups if you dont wanna spend alot, but wanna get the good stuff!

 

[FosgateLife]

As for the more "full sounding cabin" i would have to disagree. I tried to place my mid ranges here and it didnt sound good at all. Plus, running them off the TWEETERS is not gonna sound good or have any quality at all. You guys gotta understand you have to properly set up things to get the best! ^^^^^^^^ that is NOT good!!!!!!!!
Re-amp the door speakers with a more powerful HIGH QUALITY amplifier with different door speakers. This will get you that "full sound" that the factory is missing. People get in my car for demos all the time and my doors are so loud and sound so good at the same time. People tap out from just my door speakers because vocals are ear piercing! (In a good way not the harshness) and then the bass gets thems everytime . Turn it down a little and its a full sounding sound quality system!! What my goal was!

 

[FosgateLife]

Oh and one more thing, please to GOD get rid of those sonys. Im guessing xplods? Q

 

[snaksnak]

In fairness to MyNameIdeasWereTaken, it does not seem like he had tweeters in the rear doors in the first place. Nevertheless, assuming the Kenwood speakers are 4 ohms, the load presented to the amp is now 2 ohms (because the full-range door speakers in the standard aka Performance audio system is 4 ohms). The factory tweeters are 8 ohms, so the load with factory full-range speakers and tweeters would be 3 ohms. The factory amp may or may not be able to drive a 2 ohm load.

Some older Volvos had rear door speakers and rear deck speakers wired in parallel off the same amplifier channel (the 850, maybe) so there is a precedent for this setup in a Volvo.

In the mid-seventies the standard setup in a car was to have a cassette deck with a "high-power" output stage (i.e. bridged output channels) drive two coaxial speakers (preferably 6.5") in the front doors and two (preferably 6"x9") in the rear deck. With the limited amplifier output available, this was maybe the best use of resources, as the trunk cavity enhanced the lower octaves that could not be reproduced by the front speakers. Some systems still use this kind of setup, e.g. on the Rockford-Fosgate labeled setup on the 2012 Nissan Sentra SE-R.

With more amplifier power, well sealed front doors, and possibly a sub, the rear deck speakers become redundant. Try moving the fader all the way to the front for a week. Once you get accustomed to having the music coming from in front of you, it starts to sound less natural when the music is coming from behind, even if you get more "fullness".

Nevertheless, it must be admitted that with only 4 x 25 watts, the rear deck speakers may not be such a bad idea. A minor issue is that for an automotive environment, twist on wire nuts should be replaced with crimps.

 

[Jonxy]

the factory amp is able to do 2ohm per channel, he is fine doing the splicing but it would be easier to do it in the back where the amp is. remember .. the amp doesnt double its power doing this, so make sure the speakers you add have a high efficiency(90db per watt or better) so they can be loud when cranked up.

ideally it would best to get a separate amp and use that to power everything if your looking to power more than the factory number of speakers

(i have the premium sound system and thats all i have experience with these cars)

 

[Jonxy]

oh and the premium system is 4x70w and 1x35 for the center speaker . i didn't realize the lower end amp is only 4x20w , that shouldnt be enough for alot loudness.

i would definitely recommend an aftermarket amp be installed for the interior speakers if you plan to upgrade the speakers and or listen and higher volume levels.

 

[FosgateLife]

In fairness to MyNameIdeasWereTaken, it does not seem like he had tweeters in the rear doors in the first place. Nevertheless, assuming the Kenwood speakers are 4 ohms, the load presented to the amp is now 2 ohms (because the full-range door speakers in the standard aka Performance audio system is 4 ohms). The factory tweeters are 8 ohms, so the load with factory full-range speakers and tweeters would be 3.75 ohms. The factory amp may or may not be able to drive a 2 ohm load.

Some older Volvos had rear door speakers and rear deck speakers wired in parallel off the same amplifier channel (the 850, maybe) so there is a precedent for this setup in a Volvo.

In the mid-seventies the standard setup in a car was to have a cassette deck with a "high-power" output stage (i.e. bridged output channels) drive two coaxial speakers (preferably 6.5") in the front doors and two (preferably 6"x9") in the rear deck. With the limited amplifier output available, this was maybe the best use of resources, as the trunk cavity enhanced the lower octaves that could not be reproduced by the front speakers. Some systems still use this kind of setup, e.g. on the Rockford-Fosgate labeled setup on the 2012 Nissan Sentra SE-R.

With more amplifier power, well sealed front doors, and possibly a sub, the rear deck speakers become redundant. Try moving the fader all the way to the front for a week. Once you get accustomed to having the music coming from in front of you, it starts to sound less natural when the music is coming from behind, even if you get more "fullness".

Nevertheless, it must be admitted that with only 4 x 25 watts, the rear deck speakers may not be such a bad idea. A minor issue is that for an automotive environment, twist on wire nuts should be replaced with crimps.

All of us including him have separate mid range a tweeter set ups. There are component systems in each door. You cant see the tweeter in that picture. But anyways, i think we are confused here. I think the OP is asking about actual SUBWOOFERS. Not mid ranges? OP am i correct? Because to my knowledge sony doesnt make an 8 inch mid.

And as mentioned above, my setup is more directed like : 400-22k hz are all taken care of by the front doors. 80-500 hz or so is taken care of by my rear doors. Yes i have tweeters in the rear doors BUT they are more directed directly at my ear so its more of a front stage type thing. And my 20-100 hz is taken care of by my PSI sub stage. I also have it sealed off from the trunk, (no annoying rattling). Imo from what i have gathered and tested with my own car, this had been the set up ive like the most.

I previously had: stock- lots of door speaker bass but they crapped out on me from where the previous owner had (bass all the way up) distorted the sh*t out of them.
-Rockford Fosgate Punch Pro 6.5 mids and a rockford P1 10 (also sealed off).- mid ranges lacked fullness so i ditched them.
-rockford Fosgate T2 components and a RF T1 12.- components were too harsh and scratchy for my taste
Now i have my current system. BUT IM NOT DONE!! I still have alot more i wanna do. Probably (if i can find some cheap) get some Hybrid Audio Technologies legatia pro mid ranges and hertz ht28 tweets. That big boy money though

 

[snaksnak]

the factory amp is able to do 2ohm per channel (...) (i have the premium sound system and thats all i have experience with these cars)

Are you sure the basic amp is good for 2 ohms?

he is fine doing the splicing but it would be easier to do it in the back where the amp is

I'm not sure the amp is in the back with the basic sound system. Even it is, splicing into the tweeter connections seems less invasive than messing with the harness that goes into the amp.

 

[FosgateLife]

And yes i agree on the aftermarket amp I have a Coustic power Logic 360 running my rear set up right now and a Rockford T400-2 running my front doors.
Hopefully i will get a Rockford T600-4 or an 800-4 very soon!!

I still want to know if OP is talking about mids or subs?

 

[snaksnak]

All of us including him have separate mid range a tweeter set ups. There are component systems in each door. You cant see the tweeter in that picture. But anyways, i think we are confused here. I think the OP is asking about actual SUBWOOFERS. Not mid ranges? OP am i correct? Because to my knowledge sony doesnt make an 8 inch mid.

Correct, OP was has Premium Sound and was asking about installing 8" subwoofers in the rear deck (he may or may not know that subs should be crossed over at ~80 Hz +/-). He also said he wasn't sure whether he had a subwoofer. This can be checked in the Audio Settings menu on the radio, or by lifting up the trunk carpet.

I was commenting on mynameideasweretaken's reply. His car came with the basic audio system aka Performance Sound. This level does not include rear door tweeters.

 

[mkd28]

Wow thanks. I know nothing about electronic and speakers. After 7 yrs of college I couldn't tell you what 2ohms on a speaker means.
yes the 8 in sonys I have a subs. A friend gave them to me and said they sounded awesome In his nova. So I hooked them up to my surround sound woofer cable and they were pretty nice. I know your not supposed to do that but I did and they're fine. I dont really want a box In the trunk or to have to buy new speakers. Maybe a small box would be okay hooked to a new amp.

I'm sqaushing my plans to put them on the trunk deck, thanks for the heads up.

 

[MyNameIdeasWereTaken]

@MyNameIdeasWereTaken you do some amazing work, but audio is not one of them!! Lol sorry i had to say it, first of all, running those kenwoods off the rear doors can mess with the ohm loads, protection in the amps, and power distribution. NEver ever ever do this!! Your car could turn into a blazing electrical fire!

The basic sound system is already wired for the rear tweeters and has power running to wires that are just capped. All I did was connect up the speakers to that plug. Yes, they're not being fully optimized because they're bigger than the OEM tweeters, but it's a step up from the basic 6 speaker sound system my car came with. I didn't mean to sound like I physically spliced into the source for the back seat speakers.

The reason I shared what I did was more for showing that there is space to place trunk deck speakers. Maybe I'm wrong, but it sounds like the OP just happens to have a few speakers laying around that he'd like to throw in his car (same story in my case). I don't think he's looking to put a few thousand into audio. Most people around these parts put their money towards suspension, wheels, and tuning. Even the basic sound system is decent in a Volvo, they are "luxury" cars after all; it may not sound as good as an Audi or Merc, but look at the speaker set up of other cars in 2004. I do understand that some want top of the line audio equipment and a kicking bass, it's just not my taste.

I'm not an audio guy at all, I don't care much about music either. Heck, half the time I don't even listen to music, I listen to the car.
I like my cars to have a nice stance and to handle well. I may not be the fastest in a straight line, or the best looking car on the roads, but I can take corner smoother/faster than many of the "show off cars" at the local meets.

 

[Jonxy]

Are you sure the basic amp is good for 2 ohms?

I'm not sure the amp is in the back with the basic sound system. Even it is, splicing into the tweeter connections seems less invasive than messing with the harness that goes into the amp.

sorry, i was talking about the premium sound system