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Abs/anti skid service

4.2K views 18 replies 9 participants last post by  Leftie123  
#1 ·
Hi, can anyone please help me, my 2004 xc90 has an issue with the abs/anti skid service and it's driving me nuts, many so called mechanics have taken a look at it without any answers for me last one told me I should take it to an auto electrician as he said it was an electrical fault, but I know it's mechanical, can anyone please help me with this.
 
#2 ·
If you do a search on the forum you’ll find the Anti-Skid message is caused by any one of nearly a dozen possible faults. The only way to truly identify it is by getting someone with a Volvo specific OBD II device (DiCE unit) to run the Volvo diagnostics (VIDA) on it.

Do you have an ABS light active too? Anti-Skid doesn’t necessarily translate to an issue with the brakes.
 
#9 ·
If you do a search on the forum you’ll find the Anti-Skid message is caused by any one of nearly a dozen possible faults. The only way to truly identify it is by getting someone with a Volvo specific OBD II device (DiCE unit) to run the Volvo diagnostics (VIDA) on it.

Do you have an ABS light active too? Anti-Skid doesn’t necessarily translate to an issue with the brakes.
Thanks for that pal and yes the abs light is on constantly.
 
#3 ·
you need to go to a shop that specializes in Volvo, your shop-at-the-corner is not the ideal place for it. If you have money to burn, the stealership.

If you can wrench or DIY buy yourself a volvo capable scanner, there's some cheap scanners (Autel/Xtool/iCarsoft) around that can do basic troubleshooting besides the Volvo recommended VIDA/DICE unit.

I just purchased xc90 with ABS issues and the code points to a pump motor control circuit which could be caused by multiple things also besides the pump itself (the controller is common and can be repaired by Xemodex)
 
#4 ·
I just purchased xc90 with ABS issues and the code points to a pump motor control circuit which could be caused by multiple things also besides the pump itself (the controller is common and can be repaired by Xemodex)
On mine, it was the ABS motor itself. The brushes were gone, so I harvested just the motor from a junkyard ABS. Fixed it.
 
#6 ·
Mine was intermittent until the motor was changed, as well. It's been fine for years. I opened the motor and verified the wasted state of the brushes and considered the possibility of sourcing replacements, but spot-welding (brazing) the copper braid to the steel pads was another bridge too far.
I found that the similar ABS seemed to be used on many models, so I took a motor from another model at the JY because it was more accessable. S60, maybe?
 
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#7 ·
...he said it was an electrical fault, but I know it's mechanical, can anyone please help me with this.
Absolutely could be electrical. Many sensors and computer modules are involved in the ABS/traction control systems. That message is based off of some fault code that the computers have thrown...can you get the codes read and tell us what that is?
 
#12 ·
How are the rings and sensors/pickups down at the wheels? I'd start by cleaning that stuff up. Maybe there is a lot of rust on the rings or a broken wire on the pickup. Quite a few years ago I remember a body shop having a problem with a Mazda 626. It had been in an accident and one of the rings with all the bumps on it had cracked. What's the correct term, reluctor ring?
 
#13 ·
I just now today changed the yaw sensor on my 2007 XC90
These are located at least on my car anyway under the amplifier which is under the passenger front seat. Most of these cars had sunroofs if yours has a sunroof chances are it leaks and leaking won’t necessarily come in the car but I can get on the floor of the car that’s to say you won’t see it leaking but it does get in there and it gathers on the floor which is where the yaw sensor is resting almost completely totally on the floor of the car I just today replaced mine it was full of blue cheese and it caused the traction control light to stay on the dash I took it out and replaced it with a good used that was dry and not affected by water
As soon as I went down the street and went around the corner and the light went out now I can turn on my driver stability traction control on and off on demand it works fine now I don’t know that this is your problem but if you have a sunroof in that car you may very well have problems with water getting in and that’s the problem you get when the water gets on those sensors
 
#15 ·
Leftie
If you do have a sunroof pull the carpet up on either the drivers or the passenger side and I park on the street so the streets crowns to the passenger side meaning it’s a little lower and when I pulled that carpeting up there was a lot of water on the floor it’s pretty easy to do you really only have to takeoff the trim piece around the door and then maybe pull the trim piece off the center console you know the hump.
Hey at least you’ll know if water is coming in the car and I would think that your sensor is located in the same place and that you can research yourself later and even if it isn’t and it’s located somewhere else at least you’ll know whether water is coming in your car or not there’s a great how to video on how to make a permanent repair on those leaking connectors which you can buy from Volvo and they only last a few years and they leak again but the way it’s done properly is a permanent repair
 
#17 ·
In reading this thread, OP says ABS/antiskid (all the time), hazards on for no reason and a brake failure (also on all the time). Have a few questions please:

What else is not working?
Has the vehicle been read by a device that can produce Volvo module ECM-xxxx, CEM-xxxx level codes? If so, what codes were produced?
What powertrain? (makes a difference if T6 versus 5-cyl (gas or Diesel) as relates to AWD).
Last 6 of your VIN? (that'll be sequential chassis, might make a difference as you move on in your investigation as most times this is what Volvo uses for their functional separation of changes).

Model year is significant, as significant as your not having a sunroof. You're a 2004 which means the older style CEM. That means external relays (CEM goes to PCB mounted FET to a large degree after MY05). I won't know much about the relay specifics but you'll have pretty much the same CEM as the S60/70/80 vehicles of the same MY range (2003-2004 for sure) so you might start referencing your symptoms in that direction as well and see if anything comes out of it.

This vehicle, like many others, is an amalgam of modules controlling electrical functions and communicating over two flavors of data bus. A good Volvo tech with a proper code reader will be able to tell you your problem and suggest a solution. You may also find someone local with a VIDA and a DICE reader over in the UK (if that's where you're from) at Volvo Forums - Powered by vBulletin

You may have seen battery mentioned a few times earlier, a healthy and somewhat newish fully charged battery is key to establishing any odd electrical behaviors with these vehicles. Get past battery as a variable and I'll lean towards CEM but let's see exactly where you are with this.
 
#18 ·
Yeah, if we could get a list of codes we could potentially help a lot more. The combination of "anti-ski service required" and "brake failure, please stop safely" points strongly towards a bad BCM...but without a DiCE cable, that's not something you'll be capable of replacing fully -- it requires cloning or programming. On the other hand, the hazards being stuck on points towards a CEM failure...there could be a lot going on here.

If you cannot get the car to a mechanic, try to follow this procedure here to check DTCs using the display in your DIM and write down the codes you get.