[Chuck W]

So I remember in one of Jared’s threads that he removed the excess wiring from the loom that the manual swap doesn’t require. Was thinking I would like to grab a donor harness and start doing that to it. Assuming the harness can easily be removed from the car. I know you can open the ECM box, split the halves of the bottom plate and access the ECM and TCM wiring.

Did you use the N thermostat setup? Or the RN style? I am leaning toward N if possible, as I just put a new OEM thermostat in the car, along with a new OEM Volvo temp sensor. If there’s an advantage to RN, I could probably use the sensor and thermostat in another car…

Look at my green car thread on my swap/COP stuff. I took some inspiration from Jared's thread on the COP wiring and removal/etc. It's not to difficult. The engine side of the harness comes out pretty easily, so sourcing a donor shouldn't be terrible. While you're at the yard, grab a couple extra of the ECM/TCM connector block-off plates for the bottom of the ECU box.

You could have a new engine and harness ready to go, if are planning to get as much done beforehand as possible. Even a manual NA car might work as a good donor for the engine harness, if you can find a 96-98. You'd have the proper raceway, don't have to remove the auto trans stuff, and really only have to add back wiring for the TCV/BCV.
You do have to splice the NSS stuff (a little GN/RD wire) and I think the reverse light switch. Other than that, all of the auto wiring/plugs can go away.

We wound up using the N thermostat housing on ours.

I think the '04 C70 would have been a return-less fuel system. I kept the N fuel line set-up on her '97 GLT when we did her RN swap. Had to do a little tweaking of the fuel feed and the vac line that runs over the engine (the 97 GLT has the regulator mounted low behind the engine, instead of on the rail). Again a couple pics on her car's build thread.

 

[JaredR]

I would 100% keep the RN accessories and replace ALL seals. Other than that sounds like a solid plan.

The turbo will accept any exhaust flange. I would not buy an OBX or IPD exhaust.

The later PCV system requires the ME7 manifold. That was actually the biggest reason I used that manifold on my R but ....that is its own ordeal of a different level. There was a revision to the port on the block so what you need to mix and match depends on your engine's build date.

I like Chuck's idea to prewire for CoP. Aaron gave me a discount for pinning my CoP wiring directly into the ECM socket. Also grab an extra ECM socket set you have the connectors you'll need. I did remove all of the wiring for the automatic. The loom over the M56 is a different shape. I wonder if it's still available. Mine is just wrapped up in e tape and split loom because I used a M66.

You need to use the N thermostat as the thread on the ECT sensor changes.

Your neighbors sound as bad as my old ones lol. If that's an issue I would get another complete subframe to build your new setup on and then you probably can be up and running in one day once it's ready to go.

 

[johnwartjr]

I would 100% keep the RN accessories and replace ALL seals. Other than that sounds like a solid plan.

The turbo will accept any exhaust flange. I would not buy an OBX or IPD exhaust.

The later PCV system requires the ME7 manifold. That was actually the biggest reason I used that manifold on my R but ....that is its own ordeal of a different level. There was a revision to the port on the block so what you need to mix and match depends on your engine's build date.

I like Chuck's idea to prewire for CoP. Aaron gave me a discount for pinning my CoP wiring directly into the ECM socket. Also grab an extra ECM socket set you have the connectors you'll need. I did remove all of the wiring for the automatic. The loom over the M56 is a different shape. I wonder if it's still available. Mine is just wrapped up in e tape and split loom because I used a M66.

You need to use the N thermostat as the thread on the ECT sensor changes.

Your neighbors sound as bad as my old ones lol. If that's an issue I would get another complete subframe to build your new setup on and then you probably can be up and running in one day once it's ready to go.

I have a 97 NA m56 donor car available that we already stripped all the manual stuff off of, I hope to grab the subframe from it this weekend - so getting the harness wouldn’t be bad if it hasn’t been hacked up. I’ll check.

My original subframe has a couple healthy dents in it, so I want to start with a better one.


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[johnwartjr]

I would 100% keep the RN accessories and replace ALL seals. Other than that sounds like a solid plan.

The turbo will accept any exhaust flange. I would not buy an OBX or IPD exhaust.

The later PCV system requires the ME7 manifold. That was actually the biggest reason I used that manifold on my R but ....that is its own ordeal of a different level. There was a revision to the port on the block so what you need to mix and match depends on your engine's build date.

I like Chuck's idea to prewire for CoP. Aaron gave me a discount for pinning my CoP wiring directly into the ECM socket. Also grab an extra ECM socket set you have the connectors you'll need. I did remove all of the wiring for the automatic. The loom over the M56 is a different shape. I wonder if it's still available. Mine is just wrapped up in e tape and split loom because I used a M66.

You need to use the N thermostat as the thread on the ECT sensor changes.

Your neighbors sound as bad as my old ones lol. If that's an issue I would get another complete subframe to build your new setup on and then you probably can be up and running in one day once it's ready to go.

Can you explain why you recommend using the RN accessories over the N? Is there a benefit, other than being newer so possibly being available longer?

 

[JaredR]

Can you explain why you recommend using the RN accessories over the N? Is there a benefit, other than being newer so possibly being available longer?

Much easier to service, much better parts availability.

 

[johnwartjr]

Much easier to service, much better parts availability.

So I started reading my way through your red wagon thread… I’ve read through the first 600 posts but still have about 50% to go.

Chuck’s thread is next….

I’m gonna try to stop asking what may be silly questions until I’ve familiarized myself with content that may already answer my questions lol

 

[V50_M66]

Much easier to service, much better parts availability.

And cheaper parts! Serpentine belt for my '98 with tensioner and idler is almost $200. RN belt and tensioner kit is only
$120.

 

[johnwartjr]

And cheaper parts! Serpentine belt for my '98 with tensioner and idler is almost $200. RN belt and tensioner kit is only
$120.

This is an interesting discussion item.

One of the things I’ve considered with my swap… all the ‘maintenance’ items on my existing engine were done with FCP parts, so I have the lifetime replacement guarantee on them.

But if RN style accessories truly are the better route… I suppose I can move those LRG parts to another one of my vehicles!

 

[JaredR]

Yeah you definitely have other cars for which staying N makes more sense.

 

[gofra]

And cheaper parts! Serpentine belt for my '98 with tensioner and idler is almost $200. RN belt and tensioner kit is only
$120.

I managed to get:

• belt for 12,6 EUR (Conti, OE)
• tensioner for 50 EUR (Febi, OE)
• idler pulley for 33 EUR (INA, OE)

All together for 95,6 EUR. Be resourceful!

 

[johnwartjr]

Went and hit up the NA M56 car in hopes of getting a harness today.

Someone had butchered the ECM end of the harness unfortunately.

The wiring left that would’ve gone over the transmission was just loomed up in split loom with electrical tape. So if it had something more than that from the factory, it was already gone.

But, getting a subframe out and stripped in under an hour was nice!

 

[Chuck W]

Bummer you didn't get a harness, but one will come up.

What yard are you at?

 

[johnwartjr]

Bummer you didn't get a harness, but one will come up.

What yard are you at?

Pull a part Louisville. Lots more Volvos than Indy!

 

[HATTRICK2199]

Here is my RN/manual swap thread.

The Platinum Project aka S850R

Although this project is virtually complete (let's face it, project cars are never done), I wanted to go back and document it's build. The car belongs to my son Jake. The build is his vision (and $). I'm just the wrench. I'm doing this to help and inspire others with similar builds. It's not...

www.swedespeed.com

It’s a little unconventional and probably not as detailed as the others, but you might find something useful. You’re already ahead of me by having a quaife.

 

[raivis_rsn]

Sticker lives longer than mount itself lol

 

[johnwartjr]

So, just an update….

First T9 was damaged. Dropped off a forklift while pulling it out to load up. Thankfully I hadn’t paid for it yet.

I lined up another. Less miles, a couple hundred dollars more, and no accessories - but in a project like this, I’m not pinching pennies. I will probably just pick up the RN accessories elsewhere or grab them off one of the 4T5s in the garage.

The garage is cleaned, a new engine stand is sitting here waiting on the engine, and hopefully within a week or so, the engine will be here.

 

[johnwartjr]

Picked up today

B5234T9 from a 2004 C70 T5. 122,793 miles

VIN YV1NC62D44J046277

Now to start freshening it up and ordering parts.

 

[johnwartjr]

So, I’ve been trying to get some parts lists together and get a little bit of work done here.

Posting about the broken bolt on my daughters car made me think about the broken bolt I extracted on the replacement engine, and thought I’d post an update here.

Had to order some longer bolts to put this on the stand. Local hardware stores had the m10x1.5, but nothing long enough to bolt the engine to the stand. Summit, however, did. So I have 120mm and 130mm bolts on the way. The rotating stand appears to require very long bolts to reach.

One of the mount bolts had been broken off when the salvage yard pulled the engine out of the donor car. Instead of leaving the RN mount on it that I would need… I had to go get one at the junkyard. Thankfully they had 1 RN P80, a 99 S70 NA. Grabbed the mount and all the mounting hardware including the nut for the engine mount and the bolt to hold it to the subframe.

Started out by grinding the top of the broken bolt a little flatter and using my automatic center punch to put a dimple as close to center as possible.

It left this…

Started out with the smallest drill bit I had, and worked my way up to 1/8 inch and tapped the extractor in. It bit and started pulling the remainder of the broken bolt out. Cleaned it up with a tap, just to ensure the threads wouldn’t wreck the replacement bolt.

I was glad when this came out. Thankfully with the engine out of the car, I had plenty of room.

I purchased this icon brand extractor set and this was the first time I used it. Hopefully I won’t need to use it much.

Test fit the bracket.

This was something I’d wondered about. RN thermostat housing has 2 bolts, but N thermostat housing is 3. Apparently Volvo drilled the head for all 3 from the get go.

I picked up a NA intake from a 97 850 and laid the old intake gasket over it to get an idea of what porting I’ll need to do on this intake.

Also am leaning toward the RN accessories - doesn’t seem like it really adds much cost.