[300+_T5R_855]

A couple more weeks and they would have just fallen off.

 

[Chuck W]

A couple more weeks and they would have just fallen off.

They were almost as bad as the ones on my wife's car. Spite was the only thing holding those on.

 

[ScottishBrick]

One of those has been replaced before too

 

[johnwartjr]

One of those has been replaced before too

Actually both of them. I have an invoice from December of 2004 when the car was rear ended and the deck lid, bumper cover, bumper support bar, both brackets and taillights were replaced.

And when I got this car, there was a pretty ugly dent in the replacement deck lid, so I replaced the tailgate with one from a V70.

 

[ScottishBrick]

Actually both of them. I have an invoice from December of 2004 when the car was rear ended and the deck lid, bumper cover, bumper support bar, both brackets and taillights were replaced.

And when I got this car, there was a pretty ugly dent in the replacement deck lid, so I replaced the tailgate with one from a V70.

Only saw one sticker but yea.

Maybe we should be galvanizing spares

 

[johnwartjr]

So I had this nicely hibernating, waiting for spring to wake it up and do some more work to it, and my recently purchased daily had a transmission problem and went into the shop ‘indefinitely’. So, I decided to take the car for a test drive and remind myself how bad the failing turbo was.

As I remembered, instant smokescreen. White cloud following me everywhere! Not ideal, but maybe it could be limped along for a couple weeks while Ford got their crap together?

But no. I got a quick reminder of the last piece of deferred maintenance.

Fuel filter sprung a leak. It had been looking crusty.. but I was afraid the lines wouldn’t come off.

Front line came off. Back line…. Didn’t.

Thankfully, with the aid of a bolt so the line wouldn’t collapse and a pair of Vice grips, it slid out.

The old 15G was pretty much used up.

Put in a nice 16t from an 01 S60 T5M that also gave up its M56LK for this car.

Next up will likely be manual swap. Something is up with the transmission. It won’t ‘hold’ on an incline - it tries to roll backwards in gear when I take my foot off the gas and don’t apply the brake. Seems to be fine any other time though.

I’ve been looking for a good reason anyways

 

[johnwartjr]

So, I’m curious what my downpipe options are.

I would like to go angle flange. I have a hot side of an 03 c70 16t and japanafold I’d like to install down the road at the same time I do my RN oilpan swap.

Initially I had planned to do the turbo then, but the need to have a drivable car for a few weeks accelerated the turbo.

This car is getting manual swapped and will likely eventually be tuned. I have a base manual tune for starters, but expect eventually I would need a downpipe to have a bung for a wideband sensor?

Price is not my top concern. 3 inch angle flange definitely. Who makes the best p80 downpipe?

 

[johnwartjr]

I need to replace my wastegate actuator.


I can’t get the jam nut loose on mine. It’s from an 01 s60 t5.

So I think I need something from a 99-04 T5 car. Is that correct?

Or is there a quality aftermarket option?

 

[johnwartjr]

So, I have a rod knock. Long story and unfortunately nothing cool involved whatsoever.

What’s the best engine to throw at this thing? Expense isn’t the #1 concern. The car has been changed from daily driver to ‘nice day and weekend’ driver.

I was preparing to do a M56LK swap with quaife in the spring.

I have 2 4t5s in the garage. 1 has 100k and is from a junkyard car and I’ve never heard it run.

The other is from a 165k 07 s60 t5m I parted out a couple years ago. It ran well at the time.

I have a line on a 120k b5234t9 from an 04 c70 for $750

All my stage zero stuff is fairly new from FCP with lifetime replacement. So I’d like to be able to reuse as much of that stuff as possible.

Car is not a race car, just a nice day driver that I occasionally get a little spirited with. I might eventually want to mod with stuff like COP, but I could do that even with an N engine.

Thoughts?

 

[ScottishBrick]

T9 without a doubt.

 

[JaredR]

^

Exhaust VVT only will make tuning simpler too.

 

[Chuck W]

I mean, you have 2 engines in your garage already...
You could use that $750 towards something else, IMO. Like getting some of the VVT delete adapters and just timing the cams and not messing with the VVT.

 

[JaredR]

I mean, you have 2 engines in your garage already...
You could use that $750 towards something else, IMO. Like getting some of the VVT delete adapters and just timing the cams and not messing with the VVT.

The B5244T5s are hot in the P2R world probably worth more than $750. I would sell both and use net increase in liquidity towards other goodies, like a Quaife.

 

[johnwartjr]

The B5244T5s are hot in the P2R world probably worth more than $750. I would sell both and use net increase in liquidity towards other goodies, like a Quaife.

Like this one? Lol

Actually it would be really nice to have the space back in the garage, and there’s always something ‘next’ I seem to want for my cars…. So not a horrible idea.

T9 I think would be a better fit with my existing tune, which I believe was based on a v70 t5m tune… since the T9 would have a 16t. I believe I could also use my existing exhaust and just put a straight flange on the T9 for now (although I believe the 03/04 16ts have the best exhaust flange? Maybe put the proceeds from the engines into a downpipe and set of delrin subframe bushings?

This isn’t gonna be a ‘this weekend’ or overnight project. Probably will be a couple months out.

 

[JaredR]

I would use a Japanifold and TD04 turbo regardless of engine. If the XC90 manifold and K24 from the 4T5 is the alternative I would definitely swap that out even if you did end up using one of those engines.

 

[johnwartjr]

So, I bought a t9 from an 04 c70. 140ish thousand miles. Complete pulled out engine including accessories, turbo etc. Gonna sell at least one of the 4t5s.

For the initial install, I intend to replace any leaking seals, install all new engine mounts, timing and water pump, PCV, Delrin subframe bushings and reseal the pan.

I’ll also do my manual swap with M56LK and quaife at the same time.

Hoping to use my 98 v70 NA intake with NA TB and 969 disc and DO88 OTE pipe. N accessory bracket and accessories.

The Japanifold and 16T from the T9 should put the turbo outlet in the same place, right? Other research indicates c70 and 850 use the same coolant hoses, so those should line right up?

Questions, for those who have been there before… what PCV setup do I go with? Would it be a hybrid of the 850 and c70 setups? Or will the 850 stuff line up and fit?

Any other sage advice from someone who has been there? Got a swap thread I should read where you’ve gone that route?

Any suggestion on an angle flange downpipe? Should I buy a complete exhaust setup like OBX or IPD?

I may eventually come back and go COP with a bigger turbo etc, but I’m probably gonna make that the next phase. I already have a base tune for 16T and m56. That might be the 2024 stage..

 

[Chuck W]

It's been a minute, but if you're using the N intake, your existing 850 PCV stuff should be good. The wife's car is a '97 with an RN motor in it, and we used the N intake and accessories.

If you stay with the N accessories, they all work, with the couple of remembrances. The main AC/Alt bracket winds up missing 1 mounting bolt location. Hasn't been an issue for us. Also, you'll need to clearance the belt cover underneath the N serp tensioner pulley bracket. You'll see what you need to clearance when you try and bolt up the tensioner. Use that and mark as a guide on what to remove. Some folks suggest using the RN stuff, but the N stuff works fine.

To stay with the distributor you'll need to run a drill bit through the end of the intake cam so you can get the bolt through to attach the rotor mount. 11mm/7/16" should be sufficient. It'll probably toast your drill bit, as it's pretty hard material.

While the engine is out of the car, I'd suggest doing the valve seals as well. They really are a pain while the engine is in the car. Especially those on the rear of the engine. Recently did them on my T5 and the wife's car is going to need them soonish.

You will also need the P80 front motor mount bracket.

Also, seeing as you're doing the manual swap, what are your plans for the auto trans wiring? Removing it all, or just abandoning and making the couple of proper splices? If you're removing it, I would also suggest that you rough-in the wiring for the COP install, as it's easier to tuck away when the raceway is out and accessible. Even if you don't want terminate anything, having the 5 wires there for the signals will be helpful in the future. If you do a COP set-up from VAST, pretty sure he provides a wiring harness, but it all runs externally. Mine is tucked away.
We did the dist ignition on the wife's RN swap originally, and did the COP install a couple years later. The wiring for hers is attached along the raceway. It also works, but just not as clean.

Speaking of the raceway, they are different on the transmission end. Not insurmountable, but you'll need to adjust things a bit to keep wiring out of the way.

 

[Zoinks]

So, I bought a t9 from an 04 c70. 140ish thousand miles. Complete pulled out engine including accessories, turbo etc. Gonna sell at least one of the 4t5s.

For the initial install, I intend to replace any leaking seals, install all new engine mounts, timing and water pump, PCV, Delrin subframe bushings and reseal the pan.

I’ll also do my manual swap with M56LK and quaife at the same time.

Hoping to use my 98 v70 NA intake with NA TB and 969 disc and DO88 OTE pipe. N accessory bracket and accessories.

The Japanifold and 16T from the T9 should put the turbo outlet in the same place, right? Other research indicates c70 and 850 use the same coolant hoses, so those should line right up?

Questions, for those who have been there before… what PCV setup do I go with? Would it be a hybrid of the 850 and c70 setups? Or will the 850 stuff line up and fit?

Any other sage advice from someone who has been there? Got a swap thread I should read where you’ve gone that route?

Any suggestion on an angle flange downpipe? Should I buy a complete exhaust setup like OBX or IPD?

I may eventually come back and go COP with a bigger turbo etc, but I’m probably gonna make that the next phase. I already have a base tune for 16T and m56. That might be the 2024 stage..

I swapped a t9 into my old 850r, you can go read that thread but I'm sure there's better ways to do it than I did lol

To stay with the distributor you'll need to run a drill bit through the end of the intake cam so you can get the bolt through to attach the rotor mount. 11mm/7/16" should be sufficient. It'll probably toast your drill bit, as it's pretty hard material.

You will also need the P80 front motor mount bracket.

Great info from Chuck
There are other options instead of drilling out the cams if OP doesn't want to I think they're documented in Jared's 850R thread. Also, T9 should already have the correct P80 front motor mount bracket. Unless the yard removed it which would be frustrating

 

[johnwartjr]

I swapped a t9 into my old 850r, you can go read that thread but I'm sure there's better ways to do it than I did lol


Great info from Chuck
There are other options instead of drilling out the cams if OP doesn't want to I think they're documented in Jared's 850R thread. Also, T9 should already have the correct P80 front motor mount bracket. Unless the yard removed it which would be frustrating

I believe it has the front mount on it as it came direct out of an 04 c70 and I don’t think it’s been removed.

I’m gonna hit the yard this weekend. Need to grab some bits. Thinking I need 99+ fuel lines for the RN to be as clean as possible, along with a few other bits. Getting an extra front mount or two shouldn’t take very long.

 

[johnwartjr]

It's been a minute, but if you're using the N intake, your existing 850 PCV stuff should be good. The wife's car is a '97 with an RN motor in it, and we used the N intake and accessories.

If you stay with the N accessories, they all work, with the couple of remembrances. The main AC/Alt bracket winds up missing 1 mounting bolt location. Hasn't been an issue for us. Also, you'll need to clearance the belt cover underneath the N serp tensioner pulley bracket. You'll see what you need to clearance when you try and bolt up the tensioner. Use that and mark as a guide on what to remove. Some folks suggest using the RN stuff, but the N stuff works fine.

To stay with the distributor you'll need to run a drill bit through the end of the intake cam so you can get the bolt through to attach the rotor mount. 11mm/7/16" should be sufficient. It'll probably toast your drill bit, as it's pretty hard material.

While the engine is out of the car, I'd suggest doing the valve seals as well. They really are a pain while the engine is in the car. Especially those on the rear of the engine. Recently did them on my T5 and the wife's car is going to need them soonish.

You will also need the P80 front motor mount bracket.

Also, seeing as you're doing the manual swap, what are your plans for the auto trans wiring? Removing it all, or just abandoning and making the couple of proper splices? If you're removing it, I would also suggest that you rough-in the wiring for the COP install, as it's easier to tuck away when the raceway is out and accessible. Even if you don't want terminate anything, having the 5 wires there for the signals will be helpful in the future. If you do a COP set-up from VAST, pretty sure he provides a wiring harness, but it all runs externally. Mine is tucked away.
We did the dist ignition on the wife's RN swap originally, and did the COP install a couple years later. The wiring for hers is attached along the raceway. It also works, but just not as clean.

Speaking of the raceway, they are different on the transmission end. Not insurmountable, but you'll need to adjust things a bit to keep wiring out of the way.

So I remember in one of Jared’s threads that he removed the excess wiring from the loom that the manual swap doesn’t require. Was thinking I would like to grab a donor harness and start doing that to it. Assuming the harness can easily be removed from the car. I know you can open the ECM box, split the halves of the bottom plate and access the ECM and TCM wiring.

Where I live, it’s gonna be imperative I keep the car operable, and do the swap over the course of a weekend or long weekend as there are rules about inoperable cars and I don’t have a garage I could park it in for the duration. So as much prework as I can do, the better. I figured the TCM module plug and it’s wiring could be removed entirely as nothing will be plugged into it after the fact?

The car is knocking bad, but I can still start it and move it at this point to prove it is ‘operable’ if a neighbor complains.

Did you use the N thermostat setup? Or the RN style? I am leaning toward N if possible, as I just put a new OEM thermostat in the car, along with a new OEM Volvo temp sensor. If there’s an advantage to RN, I could probably use the sensor and thermostat in another car…