SwedeSpeed - Volvo Performance Forum banner
221 - 240 of 278 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
386 Posts
Discussion Starter · #222 ·
So, I learned something this weekend that I should’ve already known….

Finished the work late Friday night. Was tired, sore and dehydrated. Went inside, showered, drank some water and went to bed.

Saturday morning, I went on a test drive. Drive great around the neighborhood, but once I pulled out of the neighborhood and tried to give the car a little gas, the car would accelerate extremely slowly and fell flat on its face. The gas pedal was super hard to press!

So I drove home and popped off the throttle cover and noticed the throttle disc wouldn’t open very far at all.

Of course.. the 960 throttle disc was hitting the turbo intake manifold and could only open a crack, not a full 90 degrees.

Then I remembered I’d had a NA manifold powder coated after degreasing it, and it was right on the shelf I left it on several years ago.



So I dusted it off real well and installed it.



Now it accelerates great! Yay!

 

· Registered
Joined
·
386 Posts
Discussion Starter · #223 ·
Minor update today, the original fuel pump bit the dust. If I prime the pump before turning the key, the car starts fairly quickly. If I don’t… I have to crank and crank and crank and crank.

Decided to install a DW200 in my original fuel pump housing.

The fuel hose that came with the DW200 wasn’t long enough. The original fuel hose also wasn’t long enough. I had to get a piece of fuel line that can be submerged in fuel.

Starts right up now!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,116 Posts
I've been contemplating the DW200 swap on my car. My pump is of unknown vintage.

What did you do about the diameter difference in the pump body and fitting it to the hanger?
 

· Registered
Joined
·
386 Posts
Discussion Starter · #225 ·
So on the ‘old style’ fuel pump like my 97 has, the pump basically has a spring looking thing at the top, and a rubber boot at the bottom. It’s sort of ‘shock mounted’. Like it hangs from the clamp on the hose that attaches to the top of the fuel pump… but the spring thing at the top and the rubber boot doesn’t exactly hold it in place.. allows it to move.

The DW200 is smaller in diameter than the original Bosch. It’s also shorter than the original Bosch.

The original fuel hose isn’t long enough, and the one supplied with the DW200 isn’t either. But I had a chunk of hose left over from another fuel pump so I used it.

My intentions are to grab a newer style fuel pump assy from the pull a part, and pull the pump out of it so I only have to pay for the housing - should only be a few dollars. Then I’m gonna grab another DW200 and build one up for my other car… and if the newer style works better, I’ll just grab one and switch this car over too.

It didn’t seem like the spring or the rubber grommet / boot were really retaining the factory pump either.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
386 Posts
Discussion Starter · #226 ·


Something I just found on the Vast tuning site…

They recommend you use as long a piece of hose as will fit, and triple clamp it so it can’t slide off.

 

· Registered
Joined
·
19,438 Posts


Something I just found on the Vast tuning site…

They recommend you use as long a piece of hose as will fit, and triple clamp it so it can’t slide off.

Yeah I had that issue with my 850R.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,116 Posts
Yeah, that submersible fuel hose is stupid expensive. I've got a couple lengths of it sitting around from past fuel pump installs.

I'd be interested to see what the later (98-00 FWD) hanger assy looks like.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
386 Posts
Discussion Starter · #229 ·


This is the insert that goes in the newer style fuel pump. It cradles the bottom of the pump.

The dw200 is slightly larger in diameter than the original.




Thinking if I cut the rib opposite the clip, it will open the carrier up just enough that I can push the dw200 into the carrier. The bottom of the dw200 is the same distance to the sock as the original.. so it should sit in just the right spot.

Then I can just run the submersible hose from the top of the dw200 to the top of the pump itself and put the extra clamps on top of the hose. That should get it pretty secure



The submersible fuel hose will be here tomorrow. I’ll try to post an updated pic this weekend.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

· Registered
Joined
·
19,438 Posts
The ribs do need to be ground down. I do them all evenly.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
386 Posts
Discussion Starter · #231 ·
So, I need to slap a replacement turbo on this car, and reseal the oil pickup. Ordered the Volvo oil pan reseal kit 30750783… which clearly has more seals than I need, but I couldn’t seem to find all the individual part numbers needed, and the kit wasn’t much more than ordering a few of these from Volvo





I did some research, and determined the kit contains 13 pieces, broken down as follows:

30750783 contents

Green Paper #1 31251456 - turbo drain
Green Paper #2 31251456 - turbo drain
Purple Paper #1 30777955
Purple Paper #2 30650296
30.1 MM Black 8642560
30.1 MM Black 8642560
20.3 MM Black 8642559
Big Green Ring 30637867 - Oil Pickup
Little Green Ring 30637865 - Dipstick seal
Orange Ring # 1 31251439 - turbo drain
Orange Ring #2 31251439 - turbo drain
Orange Ring #3 31251439 - turbo drain
Orange Ring #4 31251439 - turbo drain

It would appear that one of the large black rings and one of the small black rings are also used when dropping the pan / resealing the oil pickup. I’ve not done this before, perhaps someone can confirm?
 

· Registered
Joined
·
19,438 Posts
So, I need to slap a replacement turbo on this car, and reseal the oil pickup. Ordered the Volvo oil pan reseal kit 30750783… which clearly has more seals than I need, but I couldn’t seem to find all the individual part numbers needed, and the kit wasn’t much more than ordering a few of these from Volvo





I did some research, and determined the kit contains 13 pieces, broken down as follows:

30750783 contents

Green Paper #1 31251456 - turbo drain
Green Paper #2 31251456 - turbo drain
Purple Paper #1 30777955
Purple Paper #2 30650296
30.1 MM Black 8642560
30.1 MM Black 8642560
20.3 MM Black 8642559
Big Green Ring 30637867 - Oil Pickup
Little Green Ring 30637865 - Dipstick seal
Orange Ring # 1 31251439 - turbo drain
Orange Ring #2 31251439 - turbo drain
Orange Ring #3 31251439 - turbo drain
Orange Ring #4 31251439 - turbo drain

It would appear that one of the large black rings and one of the small black rings are also used when dropping the pan / resealing the oil pickup. I’ve not done this before, perhaps someone can confirm?
Your assessment matches up with my recollection of this project. You will have seals left over. If you still have the N pan/oil cooler setup you will need some additional o rings for that.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
19,438 Posts
The one for the oil thermostat going to the oil cooler lines? Or am I missing something?

Thanks!
There are two for the lines themselves and another rectangular o ring for the thermostat to the pan
 

· Registered
Joined
·
386 Posts
Discussion Starter · #235 ·
There are two for the lines themselves and another rectangular o ring for the thermostat to the pan
I just had a thought… perhaps this is the time to go back on with a RN pan to get the pan integrated oil cooler?

Do you have to change the water pipe to change the pan? What else would I need to change?

I want to put a Japanifold on while I’m changing the turbo…

Is there a preferred year / range for the RN pan?
 

· Registered
Joined
·
19,438 Posts
I just had a thought… perhaps this is the time to go back on with a RN pan to get the pan integrated oil cooler?

Do you have to change the water pipe to change the pan? What else would I need to change?

I want to put a Japanifold on while I’m changing the turbo…

Is there a preferred year / range for the RN pan?
That is what I would do but you do have to reconfigure the water pipe. See my dad's T5's thread for details on that.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,116 Posts
Look at my green car thread for info on the RN pan swap on the N engine. I know I had some futzing to do with turbo oil lines as well, due to differences in the back of the N block vs the RN one.
I don't remember which water pipe I wound up using (I had a couple)
 

· Registered
Joined
·
19,438 Posts
Look at my green car thread for info on the RN pan swap on the N engine. I know I had some futzing to do with turbo oil lines as well, due to differences in the back of the N block vs the RN one.
I don't remember which water pipe I wound up using (I had a couple)
The water pipe needs to be watch to the turbo
 

· Registered
Joined
·
19,659 Posts
I just had a thought… perhaps this is the time to go back on with a RN pan to get the pan integrated oil cooler?

Do you have to change the water pipe to change the pan? What else would I need to change?

I want to put a Japanifold on while I’m changing the turbo…

Is there a preferred year / range for the RN pan?
Good idea.

Yes.

2000-2001 water tree if you want to keep the existing type of turbo water layout/drains/ect.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
386 Posts
Discussion Starter · #240 ·
Decided I was tired of looking at the saggy drivers side rear bumper. Tackled the bumper mounts today!




This one was done. These were not original - this car has been rear ended at least twice since new. I have receipts for when these were installed.



Put some fluid film on everything when installing the new brackets. Probably won’t be an issue here in the Midwest - this car spent a good number of years in Maryland, where they get a lot more winter than we do here.

 
221 - 240 of 278 Posts
Top