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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Whats up guys? Have not posted on here in a while due to school and getting my life together but I have been dealing with a few issues with my 02 S60 N/A lately.

Issue #1:

Was replacing my upper mount bushing with a poly alternative when i noticed a little oil seepage around the engine cover towards the cam gears. Popped the cover off and noticed a bunch of oil splashed around the intake cam gear and all on the side of the engine so my slightly educated hypothesis tells me the cam seal is blown out. With the amount of oil that was everywhere, I checked the oil level and it was below the min mark. Good deal right? Well I have checked the pcv operation and have negative pressure from the oil cap (plastic bag test) and i had my girlfriend start the car while I examined the rotation of the gear. From the looks of it, it is "bouncing" up and down or wobbling so to speak. I have 2 videos I took to try and capture what I am talking about.

Video Link 1
Video Link 2

Question #1:

I have to get my installation of VIDA set back up but I figured I would ask here while I get that together. In order to replace the cam seal on the Intake side (with the phaser) what needs to be done? I have replaced the exhaust cam seal on a customers car with little to no issues as far as taking the gear off and getting it back on. I have never taken off the phaser and do not know if I can just unscrew the torx and press the gear off like I normally would. Is the phaser keyed? does this wobbling indicate something is wrong with the bearings and/or phaser? I have a seeking idle which you can hear in the video sort of and my mind went to this wobbling could be causing it.



Issue #2:

I just started having the famous DIM failure symptoms (garbled text, etc etc) and looking if anyone has pinpointed the chip/traces for the message center. I know this is or was (last time i checked) a cold solder joint type of issue where re-flowing the board should fix the issue. Well I had done that a few months ago when the dash completely went out and it has been OK for a while and it has now started to act up again. Took a picture and video of whats going on with the DIM; mainly the message center.


Video Link
Picture:



Issue #3:

I had installed a set of CX-Racing coilovers about a year and half ago and ever since, the steering wheel has been crooked slightly to the left. Meaning I have to keep the wheel off center to go down the road straight. Now I had also installed cam bolts shortly after installing the coilovers and had a proper alignment done a few times (new tires, etc) since then. Lately, i have to have the steering wheel almost 45 degrees to the left in order to track straight. If I straighten the wheel, the car very rapidly goes to the right. The last alignment I had done was about 2 and half weeks ago and everything was dead on (Did it myself before I left my job) except for the caster on the Right front which is slightly more POSITIVE than the left front. Meaning, and correct me if I am wrong, that the car SHOULD pull to the left if the issue was a caster problem. I have been chasing this issue for some time now and am really at a loss for what could be the problem. The right front also seems to wear from the inside-out much faster than the left front which tells me the wheels are pointing like this: || // But the alignment does not show that at all. Both front tires are brand new and I have swapped tires front, back, side to side and the problem persists tell me it is not a tire issue.

New control arms, inner tie rods, sway bar links, cv axles, sub-frame inserts from iPD, ball joints.



TLDR:
-Intake cam seal blown out. How to take phaser off properly
-The famous garbled message center DIM issue
-Unknown tire wear/pull concern

Any and all help would greatly be appreciated! This is my DD and I commute 72 miles back and forth to school one way every day. I have the tools and resources to do the job just need a few pointers! Thanks guys!! :thumbup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Dam. 60 views and nothing? Bump.

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I wish I could help, I am looking for a fix for the message center issue as well.

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
I saw that video last night about the vvt hub. Seems easy enough but what I am afraid of is the wobbling in the video. It is very slight but nevertheless, there and I don't want to take everything apart to have to do it again in a month or so because the new seal is blown out.

I was hoping that there would be a DIY method. I know the xemodex one would probably outlast the car but I just don't have the money for that right now. Too bad they can program their redesigned chip, and then just send me the chip so I could solder it on myself. I guess I'll try reflowing it again.

Wouldn't something like that show up on the alignment though? That's what I have kept asking myself and I am so dam frustrated because it doesn't make any sense. And with those strut mounts, I'm not sure how I would mount those to my coilovers. I'll do more research on something like that though for sure. I'd be ecstatic if I could adjust my camber without can bolts wouldn't even need to lift the car on the rack






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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I can take another video if necessary to try and show what I am talking about with the VVT pulley. Just want to know if this is normal or not. Also noticed that all the videos I have watched have the "Yellow" vvt hub instead of the black one that I have. Was this an updated part or something?
 

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If the CVVT is "wobbling" like its moving in and out from the head, its a failing CVVT and should be replaced. Use a new bolt. Might as well replace all the cam seals while you have the cams locked.

Caster usually will not cause a pull or tire wear. I suppose if it extremely outside specs it may cause a pull but I would suspect something is bent or the suspension geometry has been modified too much by excessive lowering with coilovers. If the vehicle tracks strait on flat road (no crown) straitening a steering is easy. If the wheel is off to the left, move the wheels to the left. If off to the right, move the wheels right. Just make sure you turn both tie rods in the same direction and the same amount and the alignment should not change. I usually start with a 1/4 turn of each tie rod in the needed position movement and test drive. Sometimes a very fine 1/8 turn or less is needed to get the OCD customer pleased. Bad road crown though is a bitch and we have lots of two lane roads around here with serious crown so I get a lot of complaints that the car pulls or wheel isn't strait on such and such road.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
If the CVVT is "wobbling" like its moving in and out from the head, its a failing CVVT and should be replaced. Use a new bolt. Might as well replace all the cam seals while you have the cams locked.

Caster usually will not cause a pull or tire wear. I suppose if it extremely outside specs it may cause a pull but I would suspect something is bent or the suspension geometry has been modified too much by excessive lowering with coilovers. If the vehicle tracks strait on flat road (no crown) straitening a steering is easy. If the wheel is off to the left, move the wheels to the left. If off to the right, move the wheels right. Just make sure you turn both tie rods in the same direction and the same amount and the alignment should not change.
It's weird. The hub isn't moving in/out from the head, it's ever so slightly going up and down like the end of the can is bent or something which I know is most likely not the case. If you watch the first video link, in the first 12 secs you can see what I'm referring to. It's probably only 1-2mm but it's definitely there.

Last time I did the alignment, toe on both sides was set to dead zero and the RF caster was at 5.4 degrees while the LF was at 4.7 degrees. And on a perfectly flat road (highway middle lane, etc) the steering wheel is the most off at around 25-30 degrees turned to the left in order to go straight.

On another note, and I forgot to mention this, is that if I'm looking at the front of car, the RF wheel looks like it is out from the fender more than the LF. Other than the subframe shifting, I have no explanation for that nor a solution to get it centered back other than doing a bunch of measuring I suppose.

I had put in some ipd subframe inserts a while back and noticed that the heads of the bolts mainly the two front ones were not centered in the washer if that makes any sense. Not sure if that's related to my problem or normal?

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Quick update. Got the cam seal switched out without a hitch (or CEL). Got a bunch of oil from when I took the hub off everywhere so I am still cleaning up the residuals and making sure she isnt leaking. Will update with results at a later time.

Going to, at some point, take out the dim and try and reflow some chips here and there. Have a few ideas based off of other threads and forums as far as what to look for. Will update on that as well.

Still no idea on the pulling/crooked steering wheel issue. Have not had time/money to go find an alignment shop to get it at least measured. Waiting also on me finding the time to raise the rear end a little to get rid of some of the neg camber.
 

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For your pulling issues..sounds like a LCA bushing bad, went thru same crap.. When you have it on the rack ,put a pry bar on the LCA at a point where you can put pressure on it to see if bushing is split..you can't tell just by looking at it.replace the whole arm is easier and that should help your problem..
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Already replaced them both about 4 months ago with ipd HD's. Checked them about a month or so ago and they were still solid with no tears/cracks/etc.

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
New development in my oil leak. Apparently the front cam seals were only half the problem. Looks like the oil is now coming from the front crank seal/oil pump area.


Read a few things that said crank end play could cause the seal to push out. Also read it could be the pcv system blowing the seal out or just a bad seal. Well the pic system is brand new (did it when I replaced the seals) so that leaves the replay or a bad seal to be the issue.

Anyway to check the endplay without removing the oil pan? Kinda just pull back and forth on the serp belt pulley? Would love to avoid pulling the pan off a second time (bottomed out and cracked my old one a year ago).

I've also read you need a special puller for the crank timing gear. Does it really have to be "special" or will a normal gear puller suffice?

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Probably just a seal. I recommend getting the Volvo oil pump seal kit (comes with the crank seal too)and replacing that oring and gasket as well as you are pretty much there already when replacing the crankshaft seal. I use a harmonic balancer puller very similar to this http://www.amazon.com/OEM-Tools-270...id=1446926671&sr=8-2&keywords=balancer+puller mine is snap-on but works the same.
Good deal as i have a puller like that already :thumbup: Left my impact at my parents house however and have no way to get the 30mm crank nut off very easily. Hopefully ill be able to let her soak in some PB and then muscle it off. I have a 1/2 snap on (Strap-on :p) torque wrench so putting it back on wont be an issue. Really wish I would have noticed this when i had everything apart a week ago but lesson learned i guess..

So no ideas on checking the endplay without taking the pan off? I feel like id drive this thing off a cliff if i put it all back together and it still blew out again due to the endplay. Just want to cover all of my bases before i do this all again.

Edit: Looking at THIS kit on amazon. Never heard anything bad about OES Geniune products. Have an amazon gift card so amazon is the first choice in parts.
 

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Thats the kit. The oil pump is a little tricky to get out. Have to pry a little after you remove the 4 t40 bolts. Kinda work in out. As for checking the crankshaft end play, I suppose you could use a pry bar on the balancer and give it a push/pull and see if it moves excessively. I may seen one white block have that issue while I was at the dealer but I wasn't working on it. If the thrust bearing was bad, it's usually a very loud knocking noise and you will be like "wtf is that" I had a Mini Cooper in the shop a few months ago with the "wtf is that" and the crank pulley had about 1/4" of lateral movement. When I took the oil pan off it, there was the thrust bearing pieces in the oil pan. That engine needed a crankshaft and the repair exceeded the value of the car so they scraped it. The rest of that car was s**t anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Yea I don't have any "wtf is that" noise other than a failing serp tensioner bearing and a power steering pump moan and groan. No knocking noise or anything.

Just spent the last hour or so cleaning the hell out of the area that was wet with oil. Got to thinking some oil did spill when I took the vvt hub off and there is a VERY slight possibility this is all just residual from that. At 230k miles, I'm expecting the worst lol but hoping for the best.

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