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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just acquired a 99 V70R from a guy that was ready to part out. It apparently stopped running and he couldn't figure it out and didn't want to put any money into it since it was "old" and a third vehicle for him. I originally went to buy some parts but the car was to nice to part out being that it only had 153k and most maintenance has been verified by the stack of paperwork he had.

Now the main issue, the car will start but only run for 10-15 seconds then dies (30 sec if you press the accelerator). I have performed some basic diagnostic to determined the fuel pump is working and providing pressure to the rail. I checked voltage at the relay and fuse for the ETM and they are both good (within .2 volts of battery). When pulling the fuse and replacing you can hear the ETM cycle and hum (although the humming is louder than any other I have heard).

During our conversation, the gentleman said it just died one day and he did not have the typically rough idle/limp mode to speak of. He did mention that shortly before this happened he had an issue with the antenna ring for the ignition but had that replaced before all this happened (not immediately just in the same timeframe).

The odd part is I have not been able to pull any codes. I do not have access to DICE/VIDA but have a good scan tool. I am wondering if the codes were cleared when the battery was disconnected and the car hasn't run enough cycles to throw them again. The service and ETS lights are the only ones flagging on the dash as well.

I only had about an hour and half to troubleshoot before it got dark but would like any suggestions and/or personal experience. My next step is to download the troubleshooting guide from XEMODEX and run that in addition to checking the MAF and all vacuum lines.
 

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Most likely the ETM is bad. Take a short vid of when it is running and then shuts off.
 

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Buy a yellow label turbo ETM off of eBay and swap it in. They're cheap.
 

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probably the Electronic Throttle Module (ETM) like people said either get a used yellow label one off ebay or get a Xemodex one from their website
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
UPDATE***

I finally had time to perform some diagnostics and thanks to the troubleshooting flow chart from XEMODEX I was able to determine the MAF was bad. The car is now running and I was able to get it to cycle so now have codes. I plan on pulling them this week and seeing what other surprises are in store for me.

I now have a back up (core) yellow label ETM for if the ETM actually does fail. Oddly enough I couldn't find a dealer locally that would flash a used ETM to my VIN. Although they where all very happy to sell me a new unit though to ease my troubles:)
 

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UPDATE***

I finally had time to perform some diagnostics and thanks to the troubleshooting flow chart from XEMODEX I was able to determine the MAF was bad. The car is now running and I was able to get it to cycle so now have codes. I plan on pulling them this week and seeing what other surprises are in store for me.


I now have a back up (core) yellow label ETM for if the ETM actually does fail. Oddly enough I couldn't find a dealer locally that would flash a used ETM to my VIN. Although they where all very happy to sell me a new unit though to ease my troubles:)
You don't need to flash used ETMs to the VIN. It's 2015... I'm also irked that 16 years on people still think that. Turbo to turbo, NA to NA, it's that simple. Only brand new units from Volvo need to be initialized. If you plug your yellow label ETM in it will work. (Assuming it's a turbo ETM)...
 
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