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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Does anyone have an idea of where I would start to troubleshoot this problem? My AC works great as long as it's not over 81 degrees outside! If I drive in any temperature higher than 80 degrees F, the AC starts working great when starting out but after the first 10 to 15 minutes, it just shuts off. <p>I can turn the AC on and off from the control panel but I don't hear the clutch on the compressor kick in. A twist to this is that sometimes, I can turn the entire HVAC system off and wait 5 to 10 minutes, turn it back on and it will work for a little while until it cuts out after the 10 to 15 minutes again.<p>When the AC is working, it is very cold and does a great job so I don't think the coolant is low but I don't have enough knowledge with the system to make that assumption. <p>Can anyone help shed some light on this problem? <p>Thanks in advance!<br>
 

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Re: 98 S70 AC Stops Working @ 81 F (IRoll4me)

Excessive play in the compressor clutch causes it to shut down when it is too warm or not turn on when the ambient temp is too low. There is info around on a shim fix.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Re: 98 S70 AC Stops Working @ 81 F (IRoll4me)

Found some instructions. It certainly sounds like this is the problem with my symptoms. I hope that it is because replacing the evaporator doesn't sound like much fun at all!!<p><A HREF="http://www.volvoforums.com/m_34431/tm.htm" TARGET="_blank">http://www.volvoforums.com/m_34431/tm.htm</A><p>I'll update the post if this does the trick or not.<p>Thanks again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Re: 98 S70 AC Stops Working @ 81 F (IRoll4me)

I don't suppose anyone has any instructions on removing the compressor on my car. . . <p>And/or is there anyway to get to these shims without removing it from the vehicle? <p>And/or if I have to remove it will I have to disconnect all the hoses and connections? I guess I'm hoping that I can un-mount it and position it so that I can get to the clutch easier without fully removing it. <p>And . . . if I have to disconnect everything will I have to refill the AC system? And how difficult is doing that?<p>Thanks<br>
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Re: (ViriiGuy)

Okay, I did the A/C clutch gap fix and I was able to do it all from above in the engine compartment. I decided to use tin shims that were just slightly thinner than the bread ties and a little sturdier too. <p>Doing this procedure from above can be fairly tricky but well worth it by not having to remove the compressor or try to access it from underneath. . . <p>Here are some pictures of how I did this:<p>1. After I created the tin shims, I removed a wire connector and vent connector coming from the brain in order to have more room to get to the compressor:<p> <IMG SRC="http://i620.photobucket.com/albums/tt286/cxl99/Venttodisconnect.jpg" BORDER="0"> <p>2. Locate the clutch and rotate the outer clutch into the first position:<p> <IMG SRC="http://i620.photobucket.com/albums/tt286/cxl99/BeforeShim.jpg" BORDER="0"> <p>3. It looked like there was already a shim in place, but it was just part of the clutch. <p> <IMG SRC="http://i620.photobucket.com/albums/tt286/cxl99/BeforeShimcloseup.jpg" BORDER="0"> <p>4. Using two of your longest standard screwdrivers, manipulate them so that you can push the clutch in to allow some room to insert the shim.<p> <IMG SRC="http://i620.photobucket.com/albums/tt286/cxl99/Screwdrivers.jpg" BORDER="0"> <p>5. Using a pair of long locking tweezers, lock onto the top of the shim and guide it down into place. This can be a little tricky and would probably be more difficult with plastic shims.<p> <IMG SRC="http://i620.photobucket.com/albums/tt286/cxl99/AfterShim.jpg" BORDER="0"> <p>6. Then I prepared some two part epoxy and epoxied the shim into place.<p> <IMG SRC="http://i620.photobucket.com/albums/tt286/cxl99/Afterepoxy.jpg" BORDER="0"> <p>7. Repeat this two more times and you're done. <p>I hope this helps someone else that needs to do this. I've read that if you have this done by a shop or dealer the price could be anywhere from $300 to $600! It took me about an hour and 1/2. Most of the time was spent making the shims from the tin.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Re: (monkeywrench)

I just verified that this did in fact fix the problem! It is almost 90 out and I had cold air all the way into work!! Woohoo!<p>Thanks again to whoever figured out this fix in the first place!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Re: (IRoll4me)

I basically went from the same shape of the plastic bread bag tie but cut down about 3/4 of the length because the shim doesn't go in very far at all. I also found that I had to make the mouth of the U shape a little wider as well. <p>Sorry I didn't take any measurements, but everyone's thickness will probably be different. The tin that I used was about 3/4 of the full thickness of the plastic tie though which was perfect for mine. The tie was too thick. And because it doesn't go in very far you will want to glue it in place for sure.<br>
 
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