[johnwartjr]

Why not just get some of the silicone heater hoses and retrofit them to the fittings?

The silicone heater hoses I’ve found are only available for turbo models.

If they exist for NA and I’ve missed them…. Someone please let me know.

All I can find available now are Uro brand and that’s gonna be my last choice ever….

 

[Chuck W]

The silicone heater hoses I’ve found are only available for turbo models.

If they exist for NA and I’ve missed them…. Someone please let me know.

All I can find available now are Uro brand and that’s gonna be my last choice ever….

Ah, yes. My bad. I was misreading the applications.

However, I think if you were to use some turbo hose ends, you can make the turbo ones work. They look close enough, but the turbo ones dip down a bit and the fittings are 90*, but the NA ones are straight (and the hoses are molded accordingly).

 

[johnwartjr]

So, I think I have a new set of heater hoses on the way. Sort of.

I ordered a set for a 99 s70. Only they went NLA from multiple sources. I’m not convinced they are coming until I have them in hand.

The Volvo parts sites indicate a 96 850 NA and a 99 s70 NA have the same water pipe. And I know the firewall junction is at the same place. So logic seems they should be close to the same? The inlet hose looks identical. The outlet hose looks.. similar? I guess we will see.

I did a little digging around tonight and found 2 broken wires. One at the cooling fan relay was clearly broken, the ground wire on the fan itself had been previously poorly repaired and the butt connector pulled right apart.

I repaired them, temporarily, but the fan still doesn’t work. I did try shorting 12v to each speed of the fan, so I confirmed it works. I am going to pull it out to get a better repair on it, and do the fan mod to give a little more room to work on the car.

Tonight, I emptied out the overflow bottle with a turkey baster and ran the exhaust gas test again. The liquid stayed blue.

And to show Emily what happens when exhaust gas comes in contact with the blue liquid, I took it around the back of the car and put the tester next to the tailpipe. It turned yellow.

So maybe the head gasket is fine and when it was overheated, it didn’t kill anything? Are there any other tests I should consider to confirm it?

 

[johnwartjr]

So I haven’t updated this thread in awhile..

Emily has been busy with school and work, and it’s been cold, but we have started chipping away at some of the small stuff that needed done.

On New Years Day, we changed the air filter, cabin air filter, wiper blades and trunk shocks.

A couple weeks later, we swapped the starter as the original was on deaths door. It would dim the headlights and all the dash lights when you tried to start the engine, and I initially thought the battery was bad. Nope!

Replacement starter from an 06 4t5 I’ve had in the garage for far too long!

Since we had the fan out, I decided to do the 850 fan mod. Used a turbo fan support and a better fan motor - hers worked but looked extremely crusty. I kept it as a spare for an emergency.

 

[johnwartjr]

This past weekend, it was cold. I didn’t want to break our streak, so we chose another small task to take on, the first oil change.

I got 6 quarts of conventional 10w30 - NAPA has a really nice sale going on, $3.49 a quart. We did a new Mann filter, new cap gasket and new crush washer.

I got some windshield stickers off Amazon. So we don’t forget when it’s due!

And I got this to cut open oil filters and check things out. My magnet didn’t seem to find any metal in the pleats or the drain pan, so I hope that’s a good sign.

She’s only here every other weekend, so it’ll be a couple weeks before the next update. I have the timing kit with water pump and 4 reman calipers, pads and brackets on hand, so hopefully we can find enough time to tackle one of those things. If not, we will pick up a smaller project of some sort.

 

[CYB3RBYTE]

Great work so far. Not to start an oil war in the comments, but I've found 5W-40 will keep the lifters from getting loud and will allow the car to start easier in cold weather. Best of both worlds. Hopefully both of you can continue to work on it as time allows!

 

[V50_M66]

Great work so far. Not to start an oil war in the comments, but I've found 5W-40 will keep the lifters from getting loud and will allow the car to start easier in cold weather. Best of both worlds. Hopefully both of you can continue to work on it as time allows!

I've had great luck with 0W-40 as well. Both work well, with 0W-40 being a little better for colder climates.

 

[JaredR]

I run 0w40 so I can inventory only one oil year-round for all cars.

 

[ZZZZZZZ]

Jared - which one? Castrol euro spec?

I run 0w40 so I can inventory only one oil year-round for all cars.

 

[JaredR]

Jared - which one? Castrol euro spec?

Yes

 

[johnwartjr]

So, this is my first NA… and I’m putting in a parts order.

Let’s talk PCV.. turbo is pretty straightforward. FCP has the kit with OE everything.

FCP’s NA kit is a little more of a MacGyver approach. Some is OE, some is aftermarket, and it even says you may not need certain bits.

I would really prefer to not buy things I don’t need. For example, it comes with 2 different intake gaskets, Injector seals. I don’t think I’ve ever seen the injector seals on 96/97 models

Is the PCV kit the most efficient way to do PCV on a NA?

Is there a better way?

 

[johnwartjr]

Also, has anyone tried the ‘STI’ brand ignition wires at FCP? Apparently Bougicord is NLA. I have a set on the way with the PCV kit.


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[V50_M66]

Also, has anyone tried the ‘STI’ brand ignition wires at FCP? Apparently Bougicord is NLA. I have a set on the way with the PCV kit.


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I've got STI wires in my '98 V70 and they seem pretty good. I also have STI wires with 10k miles on them in my Land Rover Disco 2 with no issues.

 

[JaredR]

So, this is my first NA… and I’m putting in a parts order.

Let’s talk PCV.. turbo is pretty straightforward. FCP has the kit with OE everything.

FCP’s NA kit is a little more of a MacGyver approach. Some is OE, some is aftermarket, and it even says you may not need certain bits.

I would really prefer to not buy things I don’t need. For example, it comes with 2 different intake gaskets, Injector seals. I don’t think I’ve ever seen the injector seals on 96/97 models

Is the PCV kit the most efficient way to do PCV on a NA?

Is there a better way?

I never use the FCP kits

 

[johnwartjr]

I never use the FCP kits

What do you use / order?


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[JaredR]

What do you use / order?


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The parts I determine I need for my specific project '

 

[johnwartjr]

The parts I determine I need for my specific project '

I wasn’t sure what I’ll need for this car, so a kit that includes everything sounded like a nice idea so I don’t have the car torn apart waiting on pieces..

If I knew exactly which parts I needed, probably would have gone that route.

 

[CYB3RBYTE]

I’ve used FCP’s kit on my 850 for the last PCV. IIRC it was all OEM Volvo parts minus one or two hose connectors. The real parts to make sure are OEM is the collector box and the long hose that reaches to the back of the intake pipe for the oil trap.

Also currently have STI wires, they are fine. Not as nice looking as the stock bougicord wires, but they have yet to cause me any issues.

 

[JaredR]

I wasn’t sure what I’ll need for this car, so a kit that includes everything sounded like a nice idea so I don’t have the car torn apart waiting on pieces..

If I knew exactly which parts I needed, probably would have gone that route.

I use the Volvo parts diagrams

 

[johnwartjr]

Emily started off today cleaning up the interior of her car by vacuuming up pet hair. I didn’t get any photos of that as I was working on cleaning the garage. But then I joined her for todays official project - an ignition tuneup.

My beloved Bougicord spark plug wires are no longer available, in a Bougicord or Volvo box. So we tried STI.

The Bosch cap in the Volvo box was a little cheaper than a Bosch cap in a Bosch box. The Bosch rotor, however, was cheaper in a Bosch box than a Volvo box. Go figure!

I should’ve taken a picture of the electrodes on the new plugs. This is my first NA Volvo, and the OE plugs have 3 electrodes! The old NGK plugs looked like the engine had been running pretty well, but I’m not gonna do a tune up and ignore the plugs.

We discovered both rear cam seals were leaking, so we replaced them with new.

Emily learned about reading spark plugs, anti seize, had a quick reminder on how to use a torque wrench and learned how a brass bristled brush does a nice job with cleaning up crud on softer metals like an aluminum cylinder head.

Emily’s having fun, is learning something, and I’m proud of her, as always!