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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
When your oldest is about to start driving…. It’s time for another Volvo!

When you’re a frugal shade tree mechanic, it doesn’t arrive under its own power!

When you’re my kid, you get to learn how to fix what’s wrong with it.

Will be interesting to see if she enjoys wrenching like both of her grandfathers and I do..

But one thing I know for sure… she will be safe while she drives it!




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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
My buddy Chad (waving in the 1st picture) works at a shop in our area that services a lot of Volvos.

This car has been passed around the same family since new. The shop diagnosed it (blown heater core leading to a blown head gasket) and they decided that they were tired of repairing it.

I’m unsure of actual mileage. It shows 152k on the odometer and someone wrote under the hood that the timing belt was changed at 229k back in 2013.

It needs a lot of love… and some parts. Thankfully I have a pretty good stash of p80 parts from having a fleet of entirely p80s for about the last decade.. and I enjoy the salvage yard!










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Discussion Starter · #3 ·





It’s a bit dirty, from the family dog riding in the car.. but the body is mostly solid. A little damage to the drivers front fender, some rub marks on the rear bumper, and the drivers front door check is busted in the body, will need some sort of a repair job done.

Everything needs a really good deep cleaning. I think my first step is going to be grabbing a rebuildable head from the salvage yard and taking it to the machine shop. The car starts and runs now and actually sounds pretty good.

First parts list includes:

PCV kit
Timing kit
Heater core and firewall junction

More in depth look and project evaluation coming soon!


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When your oldest is about to start driving…. It’s time for another Volvo!

When you’re a frugal shade tree mechanic, it doesn’t arrive under its own power!

When you’re my kid, you get to learn how to fix what’s wrong with it.

Will be interesting to see if she enjoys wrenching like both of her grandfathers and I do..

But one thing I know for sure… she will be safe while she drives it!




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Nice ! I did the exact same thing w/ my 3 boys.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I went to pull a part and grabbed a few bits off a 96 GLT. Got the factory fog lamps, switch, relays, rubber surrounds to go around the fog lights etc. Also grabbed a throttle cover.




I was looking for a decent rebuildable NA head to take to the machine shop, in hopes that I could have one rebuilt and ready to slap on the engine.

But, I’m a little torn.

Idk the mileage on this engine. My friend Chad works at the shop it was serviced at since new and said they kept up on the maintenance for the most part.

Odo is broken, around 150k miles iirc. I need to find the correct mileage. I have an app and a Bluetooth module for that and will grab it soon.

The last timing belt was done in 2013 at 229k if I believe what’s written on the top of the ecu box.

So, I don’t think it’s out of reason to assume it might have 300k or more on it.

So I’m debating how I decide whether I look for a low mile NA engine or do a head slap.

Since it’s a kids car and there’s a good chance it might be wrecked or otherwise damaged, I’m not sure it’s the right fiscal decision to rebuild a head etc - a whole engine might be faster and cheaper. Any engine is gonna need PCV, timing kit, wires, plugs, etc.

My machine shop was $300 for the last head I had decked and a valve job done on. I have a spare gasket set on hand, but it’s not OE gaskets and I only use Volvo gaskets on my 850Rs.

It starts and runs and sounds good other than lifter ticking. I didn’t let it run long since there’s no coolant in the engine.

I imagine the lifters may stop ticking when they fill up with oil. If I grab a head to rebuild, I’d try to grab a 98 for sure to get the updated lifters.

So, I’m kicking around how I decide whether to do a head rebuild or swap the entire engine.

Thoughts?
 

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Super excited to follow. I want to see the wrenching!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
So, PCV on NA models…

Never worked on a NA Volvo before.

FCP has a PCV kit for $343.10. A ‘genuine’ kit where as much OE stuff is included as possible, but some filler stuff is included where OEM is not available.

IPD has what they call a high quality replacement kit, using some OE Volvo and some aftermarket. It’s $178.95. And it’s also out of stock.

Both kits include parts that may not be needed.

What’s the best way to tackle PCV on a NA car?
 

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So, PCV on NA models…

Never worked on a NA Volvo before.

FCP has a PCV kit for $343.10. A ‘genuine’ kit where as much OE stuff is included as possible, but some filler stuff is included where OEM is not available.

IPD has what they call a high quality replacement kit, using some OE Volvo and some aftermarket. It’s $178.95. And it’s also out of stock.

Both kits include parts that may not be needed.

What’s the best way to tackle PCV on a NA car?
So, you basically have my same car, so I'd be happy to lend some input.

For PCV components, go with the OEM kit from FCP. While not a terrible job to do twice, too much crankcase pressure from a system on these cars can cause seals to blow out, like your cam seals or rear main. I did mine back in 2017 and it's still performing just fine.

In terms of your engine, the 2.5 non turbos typically run forever when treated correctly / rebuilt right. At that mileage, if you have it apart, would be a good idea to check valve stem seals / lifters and make sure they're in good order, plus the typical stage zero.

You can pull the complete, actual milage from the car using an OBDLX tool and a android / windows device using diagnostics applications. People have posted tutorials about how to talk to the cluster in hex code and get the actual milage back.

That's a good boned car. I think with elbow grease, love, and a ahem budget, you'll get a reliable car for your kid.

Oh, not that this needs to be said, but replace all the cooling components in the car :).

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Since it’s a kids car and there’s a good chance it might be wrecked or otherwise damaged, I’m not sure it’s the right fiscal decision to rebuild a head etc - a whole engine might be faster and cheaper. Any engine is gonna need PCV, timing kit, wires, plugs, etc.

Thoughts?
If she understands and has respect for physics it will probably be someone else's fault if it gets crashed. I've known plenty of young drivers who do and haven't crashed......and plenty who don't and went through another car every 2 years for the first decade of their driving career.

Either way, a complete engine is an attractive option. Head gaskets suck to do and are $$$$$$.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
So, we have put a bit of work into it.



Pulled an info display out of a 96 850 Turbo at the local pull a part.



Swedish car parts heater core was seeping around the crimps on both ends. Went ahead and put a good used one I had back in to facilitate testing. I was led to believe this had leaked and caused the car to overheat - but as slow as the leak would’ve been, I’m not sure what to believe. This is why we test and verify.



Some sort of blockage inside the core. I tried to fish it out with a pair of needle nose pliers and a pick and it went flying - so now I’ll never know what it was!




I went to pick up a combustion leak detector and could never get the hang of it. Specifically, the bulb on the tester could never draw any air through the the tester. So I’m not sure how I’d get combustion gases to the fluid to change the color..



The car gets up to operating temperature. Gauge on the dash never goes above half.

I did notice the radiator fan never kicked on. Need to troubleshoot further.

Also noticed I didn’t have 12v at either side of fuses 19-29. All other fuses had 12v but fuse 36 was missing. Need to determine why 19-29 have no voltage at them.



Could it be a bad ignition switch?


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I didn't have to do anything special when we did the combustion gas test on the wife's GLT's old engine. The gases show up in the bubbles that return to the expansion tank. It took a little bit, but it did change. I might've pumped the bulb a few times, but mainly just to get vacuum into the tester.


If yours didn't change color, you might may not have a bad HG.

I would look to the fan controller relay. Perhaps the connectors have come apart (or the unit is just bad). That was the culprit on the wife's car, but we weren't lucky with the HG surviving.
 

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All the SCP heater cores I've seen have had that white thing inside them.
 

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Might be a restrictor of some sort.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Making parts lists…

It seems the 850 heater hoses are NLA from Volvo

It appears, however, that the 99 and up S70 NA heater hoses are available.

The inlet hose looks real similar in pics
The outlet hose, not as similar…

Is there a way to make the S70 hoses work?

Could I change the coolant pipe? Will a RN coolant pipe fit an N engine?


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Why not just get some of the silicone heater hoses and retrofit them to the fittings?
 

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Will a RN coolant pipe fit an N engine?
yes but you will either need to find an early one that was from a car with a N oil pan or upgrade to a RN oil pan.
 
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