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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all, I just purchased the Ate grooved front rotors (and PBR Ceramic pads) from IPD and was about to install them when it crossed my mind that I may have to break the hydraulic lines in order to move the calipers enough out of the way to remove/install the new e. Having never performed this procerdure before I was wondering if there were any monsters lurking in the shadows. Thanks
 

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Re: '88 240 Brake Rotors (prancingmoose)

Joe;<p>Better have alternate transportation available.<p>The hydraulic lines (new steel lines from ipd are better) will be very difficult to break loose without rounding-out the facets on the retaining nut.<p>Try some penetrant and vibration then use a wrench that fits perfectly without slop.<p>It is best to install all with new brake installation kits (ipd).<p>George Dill<p>
 

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Re: '88 240 Brake Rotors (prancingmoose)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>prancingmoose</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> it crossed my mind that I may have to break the hydraulic lines in order to move the calipers enough out of the way </TD></TR></TABLE><p>You don't need to disconnect the hydraulic lines. Nor do you necessarily need to replace the hoses. <p>The hydraulic lines for a 240 are routed around the strut tube in a way that makes it possible to gently more the caliper aside to remove/install rotors. Just have a piece of coathanger wire on hand to suspend the free caliper from the front spring.<p>No monsters -- other than an occasional balky caliper piston or brake pads that are somewhat difficult to remove one the pins etc. have been driven out. Always change the pads whenever chaning rotors. Use the new caliper bolts that are supplied with the kit. <p>Read the tip at the following link to minimize the chances of squealing brakes:<p><A HREF="http://www3.telus.net/Volvo_Books/brake3.html" TARGET="_blank">http://www3.telus.net/Volvo_Books/brake3.html</A><p>Hope this helps,<p>Paul
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Re: '88 240 Brake Rotors (RearWheelPaul)

Thanks guys, it went off without a hitch this morning. I won't feel the full effects until the pads and rotors are broken in but they're smooth and seem to be braking equally, which is a huge improvement already. Thats what I love about these cars; it really doesn't take much to make a huge improvement in performance. Thanks, take care.
 

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Re: '88 240 Brake Rotors (prancingmoose)

Joe,<p>Did the parts include "breaking" in instructions for the new pads/rotors?<p>George Dill<p>
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Re: '88 240 Brake Rotors (gdill2)

Its interesting George about the "breaking" in instructions actually because IPD has a blurb in their brake section that specifically says to remove the preservative coating from all rotors to prevent glazing, but the Ate manufacturer instructions went as far as to include a bright red note with the Power Discs that said explicitly NOT to remove any protective film. There seem to be a couple of discrepancies in their most recent catalog. In the end I decided to err on the side of caution and used brakleen only on the contact surfaces. I was going to use a high temp clear coat on the outter mounting portion (not sure what to call the part that isn't making contact with the pads) in order to ward off corrosion but decided it might be overkill and sucumbed to my impatience (I'm 25). Beyond that, I'm simply going light on the brakes for the first 100-150 miles or so. Any suggestions? Other than the Ate inst. there weren't any guidelines and I'm going off what I know.
 

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Re: '88 240 Brake Rotors (prancingmoose)

It may be too late but "light on the brakes" is exactly what most brake experts say to avoid.<p>Rather than put out bad advice here I will offer my take on the subject.<p>The proper bed-in method for all-new brakes (rotors/pads/calipers) includes initial moderate operation to be sure all is in place and adjusted then a (safe) single hard (non-ABS) stop from high speed followed by several not-so-hard stops then shut down.<p>Paul, where are you? Help!<p>George Dill<p>
 

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Re: '88 240 Brake Rotors (gdill2)

...or this...<p><A HREF="http://www.hawkperformance.com/motorsports/faqs.php#Q4" TARGET="_blank">http://www.hawkperformance.com...hp#Q4</A><p>George Dill<p>
 

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Re: '88 240 Brake Rotors (gdill2)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>gdill2</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"><br>Paul, where are you? Help!<br></TD></TR></TABLE><p>Here's what I've previously posted in response to questions concerning bedding-in brake pads:<p>The aim of bedding-in brakes is to slowly bring the pads up to operating temperature so that the adhesives and elastomers within the friction compound have an opportunity to progressively cure or harmlessly boil off. At the same time, controlled interaction between the pads and rotors allows components to properly mate. <p>The procedure that I use is:<p>1. Drive the vehicle at 30 mph before firmly applying pressure to the brake pedal to reduce speed to approximately 5 mph. <p>2. Gently accelerate to 30 mph. Continue on this speed for about 100 yds. <p>3. Firmly apply the brakes to reduce speed to 5 mph.<p>4. Resume speed of 30 mph and repeat the process half a dozen times.<p>5. Try to avoid hard braking for the next 100 miles.<p>6. The brakes are now bedded in.<p>This process brings brakes up to a good operating temperature without getting the friction material hot enough to glaze. <p>Hope this helps,<p>Paul<br>
 

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Almost perfect instructions, but ....

I couldn't have given better advice except for one thing that I'm sure you just forgot....<p>Between your steps 4 and 5, I would insert:<br>4.5. After the previous half dozen slowings, promptly park the car and leave it for a few hours to ensure that the brakes cool down completely.
 

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Re: Almost perfect instructions, but .... (KenC)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>KenC</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">After the previous half dozen slowings, promptly park the car and leave it for a few hours to ensure that the brakes cool down completely.</TD></TR></TABLE><p>I'm not aware of any benefit that this offers.
 

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Re: Almost perfect instructions, but .... (RearWheelPaul)

Benefit: Allows adequate time to read Paul's chapter on braking...<p>George Dill<p>
 
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