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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hello all, new user to the list and looking for advice. I just bought an '86 240DL wagon from a guy in my neighborhood. He told me that he had "driven the car home one day and run out of gas in front of his house" I pulled the tank and did some cleaning, replaced the thoroughly varnished in-tank pump, and got the in-line pump working by tapping on it and bumping the electrical connection. I now have gas in the cylinders (I pulled the number 2 plug and it is wet) and I have spark (when I pulled the plug I had a friend crank the engine and witnessed the spark jumping to ground). I figured that the timing has to be off (I got one really big backfire that split the old muffler as I was checking the spark) so I loosened the fixing bolt on the distributor and tried every position possible. I had no more backfires but the engine would not start or even come close. <br>I have heard the engine (twice, maybe 3 times) sound like it is trying to start. I have a Chilton's manual and am trying to wade through that. I am wondering if there is anything common that I should be looking for before checking everything. When I first started working on the car, I did notice that the in-line fuse on the fender well was blown. I replaced that and it has not blown since I have been cranking on the car. <p>The engine is a B230F with 132K miles. It has the Bosch Jetronic controller in the passenger footwell. The number on this is 0280 000 544. The ignition module is located by the Radiator overflow bottle it is labeled Volvo 1346107 U.S.A. I think I have the EZ 116K ignition system. Does this soung like it? <p>The guy that I bought it from said that his sister used to own the car in L.A. and she had "just had a bunch of work done" before he got it from her. The distributor cap and rotor look almost new, the plugs are in great shape (I regapped them to the correct specs.) the fuel filter looks almost new and I am assuming the flame arrestor and the timing belt have also been replaced although I have not checked yet. <p>BTW, the floor pans are rusted out and the driver seat is starting to come through the floor board. Is this a common issue with this car? What is the preferred fix? I was going to pull the carpet, use one of these paint-over-rust-primer products and then fiberglass. <p>Thanks in advance for any help!<p>Stu<p>
 

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Re: '86 240DL - sat 4 years - won't run. Looking for advice (stuartg3)

the rust repair needs to be done proper. cut out the rusted metal and put in some new steel, then paint over it with some POR15. it is expensive but it prevents rust from forming under the paint, something i am yet to see any other paint do. while you are down there you may want to consider some sound deadening material.<p>check for codes!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
So when I check for codes, I will need an LED test light, right? Can I pick one up at the local auto parts or is it special? The Chilton's manual doesn't say.
 

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Re: '86 240DL - sat 4 years - won't run. Looking for advice (stuartg3)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>stuartg3</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"><br><snip><br>I think I have the EZ 116K ignition system. Does this soung like it? <br><snip></TD></TR></TABLE><p>Sounds right.<p>Although you’ve mentioned checking for gas in the #2 cylinder, have you checked for the presence of gas in _ALL_ cylinders?<br>Years ago, I bought a 72 144E that had sat for 4 years, too. I had to clean the injectors to get it running. Old gas will leave corrosion and deposits after evaporating.<p>It may not have many miles, but I’d check the compression in the cylinders, too. Some valves may not be sealing close. The easiest way to fix it is to get it running. <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/tongue.gif" BORDER="0"> <p>Best of wishes!<br>MAJ
 

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Re: (stuartg3)

mmm nope your car has one. go to the library and see if they have the haynes manual, it outlines how to check for codes, but basically its a small box on the strut tower near the firewall on the drivers side, put the probe in port 6 and press the button for more then one second but not more then three with the key turned ON but the car not running. it will blink the first number pause second number pause third number. count the flashes and right it down. repeat untill codes seem very familiar, and bring the numbers back here for what they mean and how to fix them.<p>hope this helps!
 

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Re: '86 240DL - sat 4 years - won't run. Looking for advice (stuartg3)

You might, in fact, have the Volvo/Chrysler ignition system.<br>According to Bentley the V/C system is installed on B230F's from 1985-1988.<p>EZ-116K would be found on 1989 and later B230F's.<p>One thing to look at is the ignition control unit (the one by the rad overflow bottle) - if there's a vacuum diaphragm attached to it, and there's a vacuum line running to the intake manifold then it's a Volvo/Chrysler system.<p>I'd suggest getting a hold of a Bentley manual. It's much more descriptive and helpful than Chilton or Haynes.<p>And as for reading out codes, you have a LH 2.2 injection ECU. That system doesn't have self-diagnostic capability.<p><i>Modified by brickinator at 4:48 PM 5-15-2006</i><BR><BR>
<i>Modified by brickinator at 4:58 PM 5-15-2006</i>
 
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