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Discussion Starter #21
Did you just weld in a sheet in the sunroof opening or swap in a non-sunroof roof panel?





I'm also curious to see this baffle kit.....definitely keeping the N pan on my T-5R but almost all it does anymore is come out of hibernation for a couple road trips a year to the mountains and blowing it up going around a corner would be super lame.....
I cut a larger roof section from a wrecking yard car and welded it in. Easy and cost $10.

I’m going to use an RN pan and external cooler. The additional quart of capacity and easy connection for an external cooler make this a no-brainer for my needs. It’s the keep the keep it simple approach to the starvation issue.


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From what I hard welding isnt always a good option cause you could warp your roof. I used aluminum sheet and a heavy duty loctite sealant/adhesive with some rivets. The loctite does most the work so you dont really have to use many rivets.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Build is moving along, but looking for input on anything I'm missing. This is my first go with a P80 car, so It's very possible I'm overlooking something. Your input is appreciated. Everything listed without "PLAN" is already in the garage or on the car.

Suspension:
IPd 25mm front sway bar & HD end links
Ultra Racing 25mm rear sway bar
Front strut bar brace
Ultra Racing Front / Lower chassis brace
New Lemforder lower control arms with Powerflex bushings
Delrin subframe bushings
New (rebuilt) steering rack and PS pump
Eibach lowering springs
BILSTEIN B8 shocks & struts

Drivetrain:
60K mile 2000 B5234T2 engine (flushed with new seals)
VAST M4.4 ECU tune (wideband O2 with gear specific boost mapping)
TD0419T turbo (rebuilt, balanced, and ported)
P2R ported exhaust manifold
3" downpipe with stock CAT
3" MAF housing
MSD coil
Green Injectors
DW300 fuel pump
4Bar (55PSI) fuel regulator
M56 Trans with Quaife LSD (Thanks ScottishBrick)
New stock Sachs clutch & hydraulics

Interior & Gauges:
Interior completely stripped
2017 Subi WRX front seats with stock belts & air bags
AEM wideband 02 - input to VAST ECU and datalogging
AEM Boost gauge
AEM Oil temp gauge
**** PLAN - DOM cage (material on hand)
**** PLAN - race seats & harnesses

Exterior
***** PLAN - Paint stock R red

What am I missing?
 

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I would use H&R springs.
How does this tune know what gear the M56 is in?
You may reach MAF saturation with a 3" housing. I am worried about that with my build which is also using a 19T.
Why not upgrade to CoP ignition?
You should buy the AC Delete kit Will has.

See my 850R's thread for further information on how to handle the RN swap.
 

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Do you have experience at the track? I would invest in driver mod first, plus good pad and rotor material, and fresh brake fluid.

Also, before jumping into making any large investment on parts, give this a read to help decide and dial-in what you need: https://motoiq.com/?s=ultimate+handling+guide
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Do you have experience at the track? I would invest in driver mod first, plus good pad and rotor material, and fresh brake fluid.

Also, before jumping into making any large investment on parts, give this a read to help decide and dial-in what you need: https://motoiq.com/?s=ultimate+handling+guide
Yeah, I have experience driving and prepping. Building this car to invest in HPDE for my boys as having them start in my track day car is a bad idea. The cars get track pad and full brake flush before every event.




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Yeah, I have experience driving and prepping. Building this car to invest in HPDE for my boys as having them start in my track day car is a bad idea. The cars get track pad and full brake flush before every event.




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AWESOME! I love this.

I just had to ask. There's so many out there these days that want to do a "track build" but not invest in HPDE, and watching their behaviours on an open lap day sometimes scares me as certain things can be downright dangerous.

Looking forward to watching this build. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #28 (Edited)
AWESOME! I love this.

I just had to ask. There's so many out there these days that want to do a "track build" but not invest in HPDE, and watching their behaviours on an open lap day sometimes scares me as certain things can be downright dangerous.

Looking forward to watching this build. :)
Totally agree with your last statement, and that why I don’t care for loosely organized track days that aren’t HPDE events. Everyone seems to think they can drive in intermediate regardless of experience.

I keep in touch with the instructor who signed my solo and still look to him for instruction at least one track day a year.


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OH. D5 oil cooler. Its much larger. PN 31201912



That ones on the 03 now
 

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Dont go nuts on the sway bars. Car needs to have suspension articurlation to keep the wheels on the ground. Id stay stock front, 21.8mm rear euro bar or actually start off as its setup stock, 855r has good bars as is.

^
I'm not bothering to upgrade my 850R's rear sway bar. 20.8mm out of the box. It's balanced enough.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Thanks for all the input guys.... really appreciate your responses.

I will move to H&R springs given the strong input... thank you.

I’m going to hold on oil cooler upgrades for the moment until I have actual dada during tuning. I ran the Focus Mk2 cooler and then the same cooler with an added remote and it didn’t make a difference in on track oil temps. I appreciate the input but will wait for data this time to make a change. Oil temp monitoring will be key.

Sway bars - we’ll see how the car turns in and exits during the first track day. My boys won’t be driving during the first event so I’ll have a chance to shake it down and make necessary bar changes. The car will have big brakes and great exit speed, so stability with 200TW fires will be very different than a street setup. I want my boys to experience severe understeer, so we won’t go to 100TW too early. This may necessitate a smaller rear bar initially. We’ll see how the car behaves. With the cage will also be totally different, so I may end up making multiple changes along the way.


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Discussion Starter #33
I do know I’ll miss the torque and steering predictability from the rear LSD in my V70R P2R, but it will be a good learning platform.


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I'd highly recommend the 25mm rear bar. I have the stock front bar and 25mm rear on my 850R and it absolutely still understeers at autoX. Definitely worth a shakedown to see how you like the chassis balance at first though!
 

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Discussion Starter #35
I would use H&R springs.
How does this tune know what gear the M56 is in?
You may reach MAF saturation with a 3" housing. I am worried about that with my build which is also using a 19T.
Why not upgrade to CoP ignition?
You should buy the AC Delete kit Will has.

See my 850R's thread for further information on how to handle the RN swap.
Aaron and I are discussing COP and may add it. Next batch of ECU’s aren’t shipping for a couple weeks, so I have a little time to decide.

I’m planning to use the shortly belt option for AC delete.


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Sway bars - we’ll see how the car turns in and exits during the first track day. My boys won’t be driving during the first event so I’ll have a chance to shake it down and make necessary bar changes. The car will have big brakes and great exit speed, so stability with 200TW fires will be very different than a street setup. I want my boys to experience severe understeer, so we won’t go to 100TW too early.
100%!

Which 200tw tire are you going with? I've heard longevity wise, the RS4s are fantastic. Slightly slower than the RE-71R but can go lapping for days.

Yoko just released the the A052, and Falken with the RT660 too but I don't know much about them yet.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
100%!

Which 200tw tire are you going with? I've heard longevity wise, the RS4s are fantastic. Slightly slower than the RE-71R but can go lapping for days.

Yoko just released the the A052, and Falken with the RT660 too but I don't know much about them yet.
I don’t know yet actually. I’ve run RE-71R’s on the ZL1 for AutoX, but they get pretty slippery without many heat cycles.



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Also, if you're going to be sticking with the stock seat for a bit, I highly recommend a CG Lock to help keep you in place.


 

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I don’t know yet actually. I’ve run RE-71R’s on the ZL1 for AutoX, but they get pretty slippery without many heat cycles.
That's true. I've heard on track you can go about 4-5 laps before they get greasy. I ended up getting a set to try at time attack this year so I'll see how well they last on a stock alignment for an 850.
 

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Discussion Starter #40 (Edited)
Also, if you're going to be sticking with the stock seat for a bit, I highly recommend a CG Lock to help keep you in place.


Good suggestion on the CG lock. I’ll check it out.


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