[linm126]

shrug I made brackets to mount C4 Corvette 12" brakes on my Merkur Scorpio over 15 years ago, because I could. The brackets needed are remarkably similar to those in that conversion. I see nothing wrong with that S40/V50 option, other than the hassle of opening up the rotor bore.

I've got over 11K on my P2R conversion with zero issues, but the issue there, as mentioned is wheels that fit.

We have 302's on the wife's wagon, and while MUCH better than the 280's,they still leave a lot to be desired. I haven't had eyes on the XC90 stuff, so I can't speak to how much work might be needed to adapt them.

Find a machine shop to machine your rotor every time you change it is a real hassle.

 

[linm126]

I'm thinking AP because the kit was specially developed for 850 back in days. It is also an option you can choose from Volvo dealer in the UK.
So, going with a updated product may be easier.

Another option maybe Ceika. They provide a custom kit. I saw a YouTube channel interview a guy using it on C30.

 

[Chuck W]

It is EXTREMELY heavy

How does the XC90 stuff compare? I can't see it being very light, either.

Find a machine shop to machine your rotor every time you change it is a real hassle.

Thus why I mentioned it to be an issue. Then again, how often do you change rotors?


I took a glance at the XC90 stuff. At first blush, it looks pretty similar to the other conversion. I can see the brackets being designed pretty close to the others and there is no need to open the rotor bore. The 316 rotors are slightly wider than the 320's from the other kit, and they look to be "taller", but that is also due to the 28mm vs 25mm thickness. I don't see this set-up being "light" either.
Might be worth grabbing a couple mock-up donors the next time I'm out at the yard.

 

[ScottishBrick]

How does the XC90 stuff compare? I can't see it being very light, either.



Thus why I mentioned it to be an issue. Then again, how often do you change rotors?


I took a glance at the XC90 stuff. At first blush, it looks pretty similar to the other conversion. I can see the brackets being designed pretty close to the others and there is no need to open the rotor bore. The 316 rotors are slightly wider than the 320's from the other kit, and they look to be "taller", but that is also due to the 28mm vs 25mm thickness. I don't see this set-up being "light" either.
Might be worth grabbing a couple mock-up donors the next time I'm out at the yard.

XC90 stuff is heavier. Also setup for M14 bolts instead of the M12.

We should be looking at using p2 286 brackets and pads on a simple outward movement radial bolt through plate and the 320mm p2 rotors.

Why? Pad was the same for the 286/305/320 P2 kit. As was caliper. Rotor bolts up, is cheap. So just need to move the whole setup out 20mm (p80 280->320) which SHOULD clear the knuckle ears enough to make a safe, substantial adapter bracket.

The other option was to mix and match p80 and p1 stuff. But….


We can’t do this with the p80 caliper as the 320 P1 pad interferes with the p80 carrier bracket, I did play with that idea for a little. Likewise the p1 320 rotor has a different swept area and having small pad contact area or pad overlap is in advisable at best and actually causes issues in reality. P1 caliper kit with the DVS brackets had so much overhang I wore a wedge into my pads in 2 months and the braking power was falling off pretty good by that point anyway

 

[linm126]

XC90 stuff is heavier. Also setup for M14 bolts instead of the M12.

We should be looking at using p2 286 brackets and pads on a simple outward movement radial bolt through plate and the 320mm p2 rotors.

Why? Pad was the same for the 286/305/320 P2 kit. As was caliper. Rotor bolts up, is cheap. So just need to move the whole setup out 20mm (p80 280->320) which SHOULD clear the knuckle ears enough to make a safe, substantial adapter bracket.

The other option was to mix and match p80 and p1 stuff. But….


We can’t do this with the p80 caliper as the 320 P1 pad interferes with the p80 carrier bracket, I did play with that idea for a little. Likewise the p1 320 rotor has a different swept area and having small pad contact area or pad overlap is in advisable at best and actually causes issues in reality. P1 caliper kit with the DVS brackets had so much overhang I wore a wedge into my pads in 2 months and the braking power was falling off pretty good by that point anyway

I don't think 320mm will work. It is a EU police only and have a different part number as 31262503, while normal P2 pad for 286 and 305are 8634921, 272401, 274335, 30648385, 8623861(different number but all same)

 

[linm126]

After some research on Suspension, nobody mentioned anything about lower control arm and ball joint position when doing suspension upgrade.
According to my research, when you lower your car by short coil and strut, you have to adjust the steering knuckle to keep the control arm as the same geometry as before. If you lower the car for 1in, you need to raise the steering knuckle for 1in. The purpose is lowering the car by raising your tire and keeping all other suspension geometry the same. Otherwise, the handling will get worse.
I cannot find any products for Volvo to adjust the steering knuckle. The best way to modify our Volvo suspension maybe keeping it as Original height.

I'm doing this research because I want to a set of spring for my 850. All the sport springs are lowered. In order to keep the original suspension geometry, I want to find a sport spring with oe height.
The struts I'm considering B6 Bilstein.
Do you have any suggestions on springs?

 

[JaredR]

After some research on Suspension, nobody mentioned anything about lower control arm and ball joint position when doing suspension upgrade.
According to my research, when you lower your car by short coil and strut, you have to adjust the steering knuckle to keep the control arm as the same geometry as before. If you lower the car for 1in, you need to raise the steering knuckle for 1in. The purpose is lowering the car by raising your tire and keeping all other suspension geometry the same. Otherwise, the handling will get worse.
I cannot find any products for Volvo to adjust the steering knuckle. The best way to modify our Volvo suspension maybe keeping it as Original height.

I'm doing this research because I want to a set of spring for my 850. All the sport springs are lowered. In order to keep the original suspension geometry, I want to find a sport spring with oe height.
The struts I'm considering B6 Bilstein.
Do you have any suggestions on springs?

This is not an issue unless you lower it a LOT. The factory Volvo suspensions probably have more than 1" variation in height and do not compensate for this.

I run H&R springs with Bilstein B4 and have no issues with suspension geometry.

 

[linm126]

I currently have some problems putting the timing back.
I swap a pair of NA Cam.
The Cam lock is in place.
But the timing belt cannot line up. It was line up with my original Turbo Cam
What should I do?
Adjust the sprocket? Or turn the cam?

 

[JaredR]

You have two issues here.
1) the point of locking in the rear is to allow the gears to be loosened and fall into the belt without tension
2) the NA cams should be adjusted for optimal performance as the cam lock doesn't put them in the ideal place for a turbo engine. Ideal settings for your specific application may vary but there is lots of past discussion of this to help you determine the best settings for your needs.

 

[linm126]

You have two issues here.
1) the point of locking in the rear is to allow the gears to be loosened and fall into the belt without tension
2) the NA cams should be adjusted for optimal performance as the cam lock doesn't put them in the ideal place for a turbo engine. Ideal settings for your specific application may vary but there is lots of past discussion of this to help you determine the best settings for your needs.

I took out the crack pulley and put the timing belt in place. Loosen the bolt to adjust sprocket allow me to line up.
The cam adjustment tool from IPD is on the way.
I assembled the transmission throw out bearing and replaced all the seals today.

This project finally comes close to an end.

I'm considering a VAST ECU after I stage 0 and make sure everything is OK.

 

[Chuck W]

I recently did the NA cam swap on my '97 when I did the valve seals. (Hope you considered that while you had it all apart). I needed to loosen the cam pullies and move them ever so slightly to get things to line up with the belt.

What pullies are you using? NA or turbo? I used my old turbo pullies, and that puts the NA cams at +4*EX/0*IN when they are locked at the rear. I set mine to +2*EX/-2*IN for a start(based on several references) with the IPD cam tool. I don't remember what the NA pullies set the cams at by default. Initial thoughts are the +2/-2 setting are good for now. I haven't changed anything in my tune yet, but I was still tweaking it when I did the cams/seals.

I noticed A LOT of sealant oozing out from the mating surfaces. Hope you didn't use too much, and spread it evenly with a roller. There are many small oil passages that can get clogged up.

 

[linm126]

I recently did the NA cam swap on my '97 when I did the valve seals. (Hope you considered that while you had it all apart). I needed to loosen the cam pullies and move them ever so slightly to get things to line up with the belt.

What pullies are you using? NA or turbo? I used my old turbo pullies, and that puts the NA cams at +4*EX/0*IN when they are locked at the rear. I set mine to +2*EX/-2*IN for a start(based on several references) with the IPD cam tool. I don't remember what the NA pullies set the cams at by default. Initial thoughts are the +2/-2 setting are good for now. I haven't changed anything in my tune yet, but I was still tweaking it when I did the cams/seals.

I noticed A LOT of sealant oozing out from the mating surfaces. Hope you didn't use too much, and spread it evenly with a roller. There are many small oil passages that can get clogged up.

I didn't mention the valve seals. Yes. I already changed all of them, all bad. I done it without taking the head off. The special tool with a extension bar is kind of easy for me.

I also changed all the valve spring and hydraulic lifters. The new spring is conical and 3mm (44 vs 47) higher than the original cylindrical spring. The new ones are just better design.
You also need to change the spring seat due to the different shard on top. It's expensive, Volvo charge 13usd for each seat.
The hydraulic lifters also bad. You are not supposed to press down the lifter with your finger. If you can press it down, it mean the internal of the lifter is collapsed. The new lifter has better and new design.

I used the sprockets from NA cam. Doesn't matter. All same.
I'm waiting for the adjustment tool.
Ipd has instructions for the factory Cam degree.
I will definitely go for the factory setting because it's been proved to be the best choice.

 

[linm126]

What pullies are you using? NA or turbo? I used my old turbo pullies, and that puts the NA cams at +4*EX/0*IN when they are locked at the rear. I set mine to +2*EX/-2*IN for a start(based on several references) with the IPD cam tool. I don't remember what the NA pullies set the cams at by default. Initial thoughts are the +2/-2 setting are good for now. I haven't changed anything in my tune yet, but I was still tweaking it when I did the cams/seals.

Based on what I researched. The actual timing mark is the cam lock. The sprocket marking is groove on after setting the timing with cam lock.
The marking doesn't matter at all.
You need to adjust the degree base on the cam lock position. Not the marking.

 

[linm126]

Now I have a new problem.
I swap to a newer style 16T turbo (coolant hose on both side).
Now, the rubber coolant hose is not long enough.
My Volvo mechanic told me it is a special hose for high temp. I shouldn't change it with other hose.
Did anyone has similar problem before?

 

[JaredR]

I think you have the wrong combination of lines/hoses. We also did this on my dad's T5 with no issues.

 

[linm126]

I think you have the wrong combination of lines/hoses. We also did this on my dad's T5 with no issues.
View attachment 185856

I didn't changed the oil in-line. It will interfer the block. I just bent the coolant in-line a little carefully to make it fit the hose.
Do you have the part number for that rubber hose you used on your car? It looks longer than the one I have.

 

[JaredR]

31439471

We modified the shape of the oil feed line to make this all work cleanly.

 

[linm126]

31439471

We modified the shape of the oil feed line to make this all work cleanly.

Interesting.
I searched the P# and checked the diagram.
It seems like I can swap the coolant out with coolant in. I didn't changed the lower coolant pipe. It stick out a little more than before.
I will try it tomorrow.

 

[linm126]

31439471

We modified the shape of the oil feed line to make this all work cleanly.

Nope.
It's not working.
They are different size.
I'm going to bent the pipe more to make it fit. I think this is the only way.

 

[Chuck W]

Nope.
It's not working.
They are different size.
I'm going to bent the pipe more to make it fit. I think this is the only way.

There are several options for a hi-temp generic hose for that location, but bending the hardline a little bit also works if you have the wiggle room.