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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
i have this 88 740 gle auto - 270,000km.

Problem is : battery power was too low to start engine, car would start normally when jump.

So I had battery replaced in Aug and the problem was gone. Now same problem is back - just replaced with new distributor and rotor, work ok for one to two days, once battery is low, again not starting engine unless gets a jump.

what could be the problem ? alternator (replaced about 6-10 years ago) ? believed original ignition coil ? spark plugs (only 1.5 years old, less than 10k per year)?

while battery in use (engine on), reading on voltage about 13-14v and 25 amp or so, are these values normal ? what should they be ? I read somewhere voltage should be 15v in order to charge ? is this right ?

thanks
 

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i have this 88 740 gle auto - 270,000km.

Problem is : battery power was too low to start engine, car would start normally when jump.

So I had battery replaced in Aug and the problem was gone. Now same problem is back - just replaced with new distributor and rotor, work ok for one to two days, once battery is low, again not starting engine unless gets a jump.

what could be the problem ? alternator (replaced about 6-10 years ago) ? believed original ignition coil ? spark plugs (only 1.5 years old, less than 10k per year)?

while battery in use (engine on), reading on voltage about 13-14v and 25 amp or so, are these values normal ? what should they be ? I read somewhere voltage should be 15v in order to charge ? is this right ?

thanks
Welcome to Swedespeed, Peter.

Could be time for a new/rebult alternator or maybe just the built-in regulator.

George Dill
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Thank George, I am getting the alternator but two versions available 70 or 80 amp. I plan to put in HID headlight. which one - 80 amp ?

if alternator is rated 70/80 amp, my battery has a reading of only 25+ then it must be drained, is this why you think my problem is not in the ignition coil ?
 

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i have this 88 740 gle auto - 270,000km.

Problem is : battery power was too low to start engine, car would start normally when jump.

while battery in use (engine on), reading on voltage about 13-14v and 25 amp or so, are these values normal ? what should they be ? I read somewhere voltage should be 15v in order to charge ? is this right ?
Sounds like that battery replacement masked the problem of your alternator brushes running short. Alt being 6 years old is OK, but how many km have you put on since it was installed?

Replace the brush pack and roll on.

Ian:cool:
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
thanks - I am replacing the brush regulator assembly, the old one said 1197 311 008, the new old I got from Volvo dealer is 1197 311 022. Are they the same ? i searched and could not find from Bosch sites cross reference. online dealer sites said they are same. where to find a cross reference for Bosch. does it matter if not same # ?

is replacing with complete rebuilt alternator better or just the regulator sufficient ? under what condition better with a complete rebuild ?

thanks
 

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thanks - I am replacing the brush regulator assembly, the old one said 1197 311 008, the new old I got from Volvo dealer is 1197 311 022. Are they the same ?

is replacing with complete rebuilt alternator better or just the regulator sufficient ? under what condition better with a complete rebuild ?
Bosch's lists the 022 as an alternative to the 008 regulator. http://goo.gl/bC7C3

Unless there's been some excessive abuse to the alternator, everything other than the brushes tend to go for upwards of 300K km. So, I'd pass on the rebuild until you hear your bearings whining. Then just have your alternator rebuilt.

Ian
 

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Actually, it looks like both the -008 and -022 regulators have been superseded by the -028...but the -022 should be fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Tried putting -022 in but alternator not generating electricity at all, is there polarity to follow or could go in either direction ?

also replacing the ignition coil did not solve the ignition problem, let me explain my problem better : normally when I turned the key, the engine crank and starts, if not started with first crank, I could crank again until engine starts. the problem now is I only could crank once, better result if I step on the gas at the same time, BUT if first time crank and engine not started, then all warning lights come on and the battery would have no output or little output to the ignition to start the cranking process, if lucky then after many minutes waiting, then battery/whatever reset and I could try again, if not then it must be jumped to start the engine. Once jumped from another car, the engine fires up instantly. any idea what's wrong ? also noticed lot of motor oil back flowed into the air intake pipe from the air filter.
 

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More guesses...

Failing starter solenoid.

PCV system malfunctioning.

Battery cables and/or starter cables have poor connection (invisible break under the insulation).

One or more major grounding connections making poor contact.

Failed/failing junctions in the engine wiring harness and/or bare wires intermittently grounding out caused by excessive engine movement (collapsed engine/trans mounts).

George Dill
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
More guesses...
Failing starter solenoid.
PCV system malfunctioning.
Battery cables and/or starter cables have poor connection (invisible break under the insulation).
One or more major grounding connections making poor contact.
Failed/failing junctions in the engine wiring harness and/or bare wires intermittently grounding out caused by excessive engine movement (collapsed engine/trans mounts).
George Dill
Thanks George, I guess after so many years on the roads with basic maintenance on moving parts is not enough. Electrical is really a headache. I will check these wires you mentioned. Why a jump start would start the car instantly with no problem ?
 

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...Why a jump start would start the car instantly with no problem ?
If you are using jumper cables with an alligator clip clamped to the positive terminal on the battery it is possible that the clip is in electrical contact with a non-insulated portion of the battery cable while also contacting the battery terminal and the battery cable's clamp that attaches to the positive battery terminal.

This would allow strong current to flow from the positive battery terminal to the positive cable on the battery which would enable the solenoid/starter.

Same for the negative cable if you jump with both jumper cables attached to the battery (could be dangerous if battery fumes are dense enough to be ignited by a spark).

If you are uncertain as to the age and condition of the battery and starter cables consider replacement using OE or better items.

George Dill
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
thanks George, the Volvo parts dept staff said it could be the cables between the battery and the selenoid/starter (just like what you said), also possible is the ignition fuel replay (I did not try this because no refund on electrical), .... i will try putting the jumper alligator clips on both terminals but not attached to a battery ...

how to test the wires between the battery and the starter ? use an ohm meter to check resistance ? it should be no resistance, right ?
 

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Solved - it was clotted breather tubes. Thanks
So, this is new to me...but I've only been messing with Volvos for 6 years. The PCV system being clogged up can present enough back-pressure to increase the resistance to turning such that the starter on 11V is not powerful enough to start the car, but on 14.5V it can start the car? (pun) Shocking.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
while i was changing the alternator brushes, i noticed oil in the air hose between the MAF sensor and the engine air intake, so upon my arrival at the volvo shop, I told the "volvo mechanic/receptionist" who was more knowledgeable than others working there, he immediately said that what causing my problem - said this was common with other models too. like you said, why my car would not trigger the starter if I failed the first time, but by just hooking to a jump, the car would start instantly ? I still want to find this answer. is the battery/alternator faulty ? last measured was 20-30 amp at idle, the shop said they are working fine. the rebuild alternator is rated at 80 amp max.

by the way after I installed the new alternator brushes, the alternator has zero output and the car stalled once a terminal was disconnected. does that mean the new brushes were broken when I purchased ? or they are compatible ?
 

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Given the voltage values you showed when the car was running, I wouldn't think there was anything wrong with your alternator...originally. If it would start with a jump, the next thing I would have tried is to start it with a long screwdriver by jumping the starter contacts. If it starts that way, it's generally an old tired starter and/or solenoid.
 

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When I changed the regulator/brushes on my 90 740, the first time the brushes got in kind of cockeyed... pulled it out and tilted it so the brushes went in first and tilted it down until it was straight and against the alternator, then put the screws in. Also, check the ground wire for the alternator... Mine was corroded pretty bad and I replaced it.
 

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I'm kinda late coming in on this, but I always check battery voltage before I start the car (when I suspect a charging problem). That way I have a baseline and know if it was charged up last time the car was run. It's good to see 12.5 and up, but the colder it is, the lower the voltage in the battery. I've seen on hot summers over 13 volts on a sitting battery.
 
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