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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, so last May while I was living in Oregon, I came across this little gem:

164E
It was parked in a field, surrounded by other Volvos, but for some reason it caught my attention. Probably because I had never seen a 164 before.
It looked in pretty good shape:

164E
And the interior was good too:

164E Interior
It had 162K on the clock, however I dont know how accurate that is.

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And.....it has an engine in it! I connected a battery to it and poured some gas in the air intake (Yes i know, I was young and knew a lot less about cars!)
Well it turned over and blew white smoke engulfing the field. I knew there and then I need this car!
I was going to get it, but my living situation at the time allowed for no more than 2 cars on the property. Bummer!
Now I live some where else. I live in Utah, I know a lot more about cars, and I have a lot more tools!
The guy calls me out of the blue, "you still want the 164?"
Heck yes! Anyway, now its paid for, the haulage company is booked to collect it and deliver it next week and I am stoked!!
Known Problems:
Fuel Pump
Windshield
Radiator (he's throwing one in the trunk and I have the hoses already)
Unknown problems:
Everything else.
So I really wanted to start this thread to document my 164E (yet to be named)

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Discussion Starter #4
She's arrived! Quite a productive day! Drained the gas tank, drained oil, replaced filter, replaced oil, removed fuel pump and filter, partially installed radiator and sprayed ether in the intake and it turned over on its own steam!
Question for you guys, how much pressure do you think the at fluid lines take up to the radiator. It had braided hoses on it which were cut at some point. Could I flare the ends of the hard lines and plumb in regular hose to an aftermarket oil cooler?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
And here it is on the truck:

Thorn between two roses

l

http://postimage.org/

We had to push it DOWN the ramps to get it off, tires were pretty low and I had my old B18 block in the trunk, with two extra heads, easily adding another 200lbs.

Well now its in the carport, and the fun begins.....kind of!

The radiator that I got with it has a hole in it, and the new fuel pump I installed is not firing up under "pre-start" priming stage. I have to bypass the relays to get power to it.

More testing to come.
 

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In that manual there should also be a diagram of the fuel injection system wiring. In the book about hte 140 series you can find it in the chapter "fuel systems" and not in the electrical chapter.

Regards,

Mathieu.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Well guys, I got her runnin!!! Only for a short time but that was out of choice, the radiator is not installed yet! Turns out it was this little guy:


164

The little 90 degree connector bit had corroded quite badly so i just replaced it with a straight spade connector (I can see why the 90 is there, its so close to the chassis).

So that is great progress, now onto the gas tank which reminds me of the bog of eternal stench!

Thanks for the links guys.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
The return fuel line was such a headache, completely blocked all the way from the center of the car, back to the fuel tank. Had to drill it out with a long piece of stiff-ish wire, then drill out the 90 degree union at the back. Also the fuel pickup pipe was blocked so that was a tough one too.

Its idling very high at the moment so I’ll have to play around with that a bit and figure out why, any input would be appreciated. The little plastic dial in the engine bay doesn’t seem to make any difference. Next the one on the ECU?
 

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Next the one on the ECU?
Better not to touch that one! By an injection engine you have an auxilary air valve that cause the engine to run on higher revs, once the engine in on temperature the valve is closed and the revs will decrease. But these valves are very prone to get stucked, particular if the engine has not been running for a long time, and do not get closed anymore. You can test you valve by using a plier and close the rubber hose ( check if the hose is in good condition ) from the valve to the manifold. The auxilary valve is on the right frontside of the engine right before the exhaust manifold. If that does not make any differance you have to look for other solutions. To adjust the idle revs there is a srew with a locking nut on the inlet manifold. Not sure were it is located on a 6 cyliner manifold but it have to be close to the throttle plate in the manifold. By turning the screw in or out you can adjust the revs. But before you do that check if the throttle plate is closing the entrance of the manifold proper.

Regards,

Mathieu.
 

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No, the hose I wrote about is between the auxiliary air valve and the manifold and has nothing to do with the adjustment screw. There are 2 hoses going from/to the auxiliary valve. One is attached to the manifold before the throttle plate and the other one after the throttle plate. If your high idle revs is caused by a auxiliary valve that does not close anymore and you pinch 1 of the 2 hoses yours revs should decrease. In this thread you can read more about solving high idle revs: http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?217261-71-1800-idle-problems

Regards,

Mathieu.
 

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See photo, hoses marked with red are the ones I wrote about. I see that there is also a manual valve added in one hose, you can try to close that one. Yellow marked nut could be you idle adjust srew.

 

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Discussion Starter #20
Perfect thank you. It worked, the car also slows down once it's reached temperature.
Now, brakes! The BR light is on on the dash, all the wheels are stuck almost solid. Is it a complete tear down and rebuild / bleed or am I missing something?
 
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