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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Started getting weak until she could barely move, tested around a bit tonight. Anyways, the car starts and runs but seemed to not be running on six cylinders. In fact, based on disconnecting the plug leads while running it appears on 2 cylinders are firing!

Pretty sure this is mechanics/troubleshooting 101 but where should I trace this back to first. As noted in other threads I do have a parts car so hopefully just need to identify what to swap. I'm thinking to ensure a spark is leaping at the plug then look under the distributor cap. Should I exclude the coil as a potential problem since I am getting spark to the 2 cylinders consistently?
 

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Could be distributor-related and/or spark plug/wire problems.

Does the car have ignition contact points in the distributor?

Is the battery in good condition with solid cables and ground?

George Dill
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yes, it was running good, albeit idling fast once hot due to other reasons, and this started "all of a sudden"... I'll go over those parts you mentioned and use parts off of the parts car - can the whole distributor assembly be swapped easily as a test? Recommended?
 

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Yes, it was running good, albeit idling fast once hot due to other reasons, and this started "all of a sudden"... I'll go over those parts you mentioned and use parts off of the parts car - can the whole distributor assembly be swapped easily as a test? Recommended?
"...it was running good..." should allow you to fix whatever is malfunctioning without swapping parts.

Make sure the contact points inside the distributor are properly gapped and secure.

George Dill
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
OK, I've had the chance to do a little more troubleshooting and it seems my instinsts were wrong... there is actually spark going to each of the plugs, yet only cylinders 3 and 4 seem to be firing. Any suggestions? I'm now thinking this is an issue of only those 2 cylinders getting fuel and with 4 failing all at once maybe some sort of electronic injector control thingy or something... any clues for me?

Any and all help is appreciated.

Ross
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Not sure if any of the scenarios match exactly but there should be enough troubleshooting techniques in there to get the job done... I'll report back.
 

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I recently went through the same scenario on a 72 164E so I feel relatively qualified to comment here.
If all of the odd numbered or even numbered cylinders were firing but not the others, I would say check the trigger points in the bottom of your distributor.
But since one odd numbered cylinder and one even numbered cylinder are firing, both trigger points are probably OK.
First check the fuel pressure and set the regulator to 30 psi.
If it was already near that, that was NOT the problem.
I would pull the entire fuel rail with injectors and pull it back far enough that you can put some newspaper or cardboard in front of ALL the injectors. Disconnect the coil and crank the engine.
Observe the pattern made on the paper or cardboard by the injectors. If only 3 and 4 are injecting,
your other injectors are stopped up or not opening. First thing to do is to tap lighly on the stainless pin that sticks out of the south end of the nonfunctioning injectors. They should move inward about
0.015 to 0.020". Try cranking again to see if they have opened and are working. If not, send ALL the injectors to Rich Jensen at Cruzin Performance in Big Rapids, Michigan. He will free, clean and calibrate them for about $15 each plus shipping. When you get them back put them in and try again.
NOTE! I had him clean some about a year before installing them and using them and 3 of them stuck shut. He recleaned them free of charge but warned against letting them sit more than 2 months after cleaning.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Anyone have a source for injector base gaskets? (not the rubber o-rings)

I'm referring to the thin (paper-like?) gaskets the injector assemblies sit on where they mate with the fuel-intake ports on the engine... does anyone know where I can get my hands on some?

I believe these are the final missing link to getting her back on the road...

Thanks
 

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You need the O-rings that belong there. Paper gaskets were never standard there. Not sure where you are but Mike Dudek at IRoll Motors has those parts at Gilroy, California.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Yes, bad description... they're more like a washer (and are flat in fact) and sit in the intake port well/recess (my wn terminology of course) where the injector assembly joins to the engine. I'll try to post a picture and dimensions to ensure we're talking about the same part... I have one in 2 pieces but complete for all intents and purposes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
As per the p1800 thread I was attempting to refer to Bakelite washers, which Walrus was kind enough to point out... I'm in Montrea, Canadal if anyone knows of a source closer than California to me. I'll go ahead and order from iRoll asap otherwise.
thx
 

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As per the p1800 thread I was attempting to refer to Bakelite washers, which Walrus was kind enough to point out... I'm in Montrea, Canadal if anyone knows of a source closer than California to me. I'll go ahead and order from iRoll asap otherwise.
thx
Yes, bad description... they're more like a washer (and are flat in fact) and sit in the intake port well/recess (my wn terminology of course) where the injector assembly joins to the engine. I'll try to post a picture and dimensions to ensure we're talking about the same part... I have one in 2 pieces but complete for all intents and purposes.
Take the remnants of the existing washer and visit a local hardware store and/or building supply.

George Dill
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Yes, I'll do that.. but just to be more precise. I've returned to my parts 164 and got 1 of these washers off as a complete piece... the other 5 came off mostly in 2 pieces. These are black plastic (could be bakelite) washers and are definitely in the fuel intake ports (round recess the 6 individual assemblies pull out of) and not for the hold down allen bolts. Is this familiar to anyone?

About 7/8' diameter, 1/8" wide, 1/16" thick... does this washer have a name? Definitely not either of the injector-specific rubber O-rings (1 big, 1small), as I have now ordered 2 sets of these, 1 from Volvo the other from eBay.

(I have procrastinated and will call iRoll as well...)
 

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I've seen a lot of them and not seen a washer in that position. What I have seen is the 1/8" section O-ring, which gets quite flattened in its old age. That may be what you are seeing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I think you're right... it looked like a plastic washer as they were all flattened and dry to the bone. That said, a mechanic friend found some decent enough fitting o-rings which work well enough, no vacuum leaks.

Moving on to further idle tuning... found an almost fully closing 1800 mechanical auxiliary air valve to adapt in place of the 164e's - mounting face looks pretty much identical, just requires down-sizing the air hoses at the connections. Anyone know any reasons why this wouldn't be a suitable swap?
 

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I think you're right... it looked like a plastic washer as they were all flattened and dry to the bone. That said, a mechanic friend found some decent enough fitting o-rings which work well enough, no vacuum leaks.

Moving on to further idle tuning... found an almost fully closing 1800 mechanical auxiliary air valve to adapt in place of the 164e's - mounting face looks pretty much identical, just requires down-sizing the air hoses at the connections. Anyone know any reasons why this wouldn't be a suitable swap?
What are the numbers on the 1800 mechanical valve?

George Dill

http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?171630-72-164e-idling-fast.&p=1909367

http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?172481-quot-Upgrade-quot-to-75-aux-air-valve

http://www.partbob.com/zusatzluftsc...01.html?___store=default&___from_store=german
 

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The only problems might be that not quite closing would leave your slow idle too fast and the smaller valve might make your fast idle too slow.
 
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