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Discussion Starter #1
Good day Everyone, Well, kind of would like to replace the brake hard lines from master to distribution block. Anyone know the line size (inner/outer), fitting, and tread specs? One I have was cross threaded, but they look like they really could use to be replaced. Can't locate a locale shop that makes lines anywhere near me, so guess I will have to try and make myself. I couldn't find them for sale already made (if known where, please share).

Thanks, and have a great one.
DOC
 

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Welcome to Swedespeed, Dean.

This kit should do it...

http://www.motorsport-tools.com/aut...-set-kit-volvo-p1800-tandem-lhd-p-252244.html

George Dill
I redid the lines on my '66. All the fittings were standard brake "double flare" fittings, 3/16" line. If you want to spend near 200 pounds for the kit, go for it, but you can also spend 25 bucks on some steel line (arguably safer), $30 on fittings, and $30 on a flare tool.

If you don't want to spend the dough for a tool, then NAPA or an equivalent store will have prefabricated brake lines with the flares and fittings on the ends already. Choose the one closest in length (always longer) to the line you're replacing and bend it to shape.
 

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+1 on just making your own with steel line, it's pretty easy.
 

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The only problem with the pre-assembled and flared lines from NAPA are that they're male on both ends, and these cars have several runs that are male on one end and female on the other. The only choice really is to make your own, and hope you can buy some female end fittings somewhere as they don't usually come in the kits. That or you're going to have to switch to non-standard soft lines with the female fittings on them.

The kit George linked does have male to female runs, that's a good thing.

Duh, never mind what am I thinking. You can always buy gender changer fittings if you want to use the pre-flared stuff.
 

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The only problem with the pre-assembled and flared lines from NAPA are that they're male on both ends, and these cars have several runs that are male on one end and female on the other. The only choice really is to make your own, and hope you can buy some female end fittings somewhere as they don't usually come in the kits. That or you're going to have to switch to non-standard soft lines with the female fittings on them.

The kit George linked does have male to female runs, that's a good thing.

Duh, never mind what am I thinking. You can always buy gender changer fittings if you want to use the pre-flared stuff.
The NAPA's and Lordco's where I am carry all the fittings. I was able to get the "tube nuts" (female) that go to the master cylinder and brake servo, and all the regular male fittings. If you're looking for a cheap, always locally available replacement for the rear flex hose (flexible line with a T built in) source one from an 86 5th Avenue. Dirt cheap at 8 bucks or so, and the exact same thing, except for the mount on the body side. I used one for a few weeks while my Volvo replacement was in the mail, and fabricated a little bracket for the body side.
 

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George I just ordered a complete set of braided lines from IPD. Do you feel these copper lines are better? Many posts in SS state the braided lines are the way to go. My car will be a 3 season daily driver. Just curious?
The ipd lines replace the old rubber hoses.

The copper kits replace the old rigid lines.

George Dill
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks everyone. For the 71 (70-73) it looks like the hard line from the master to the distro block are male/male. If the 3/8" work properly, then that’s nice to know. I did take the line off and found a shop that said they could make one. Two things came of this at the shop, 1- the line was fine, and didn't need replace. 2- the fittings on each end were 10x1.25mm.

So, it appears that my slight leak is in the brass distribution block. Makes a bit of sense as the block is brass and the fitting is steel (soft/hard materials) So, the cross thread is in the block.

I will try to reinstall VERY carefully so it's straight, and hope for a good seal. If not, the next action would be to tap and die it to a standard spec, and go with a NAPA hardline as mentioned. As I would think locating a new distro block could be a bother, and pricy, but have not looked at too many parts places, but sofar, no locate.

Thanks everyone for the inputs.

DOC
 

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Thanks everyone. For the 71 (70-73) it looks like the hard line from the master to the distro block are male/male. If the 3/8" work properly, then that’s nice to know. I did take the line off and found a shop that said they could make one. Two things came of this at the shop, 1- the line was fine, and didn't need replace. 2- the fittings on each end were 10x1.25mm.

So, it appears that my slight leak is in the brass distribution block. Makes a bit of sense as the block is brass and the fitting is steel (soft/hard materials) So, the cross thread is in the block.

I will try to reinstall VERY carefully so it's straight, and hope for a good seal. If not, the next action would be to tap and die it to a standard spec, and go with a NAPA hardline as mentioned. As I would think locating a new distro block could be a bother, and pricy, but have not looked at too many parts places, but sofar, no locate.

Thanks everyone for the inputs.

DOC
Keep us posted on your progress and let us know what used items you need as 1800 salvage parts are readily available and not expensive.

George Dill
 

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If keeping everything stock is not a concern, what is the best upgrade path for the brakes? Not asking about rear disc conversion, but if there are bits from later cars that are a direct swap (master cylinder, brake booster, etc.).
 

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If keeping everything stock is not a concern, what is the best upgrade path for the brakes? Not asking about rear disc conversion, but if there are bits from later cars that are a direct swap (master cylinder, brake booster, etc.).
Start a fresh thread to include your car's current setup/mods/non-stock, etc. and we will hook you up with brake upgrade ideas.

Thanks.

George Dill
 

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Start a fresh thread to include your car's current setup/mods/non-stock, etc. and we will hook you up with brake upgrade ideas.

Thanks.

George Dill
Gotcha. Not really an issue til I get the cars back, just curious cause I remember how poor they were. I'll just search the forums in the meantime.
 

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This is a response to a couple different things.
One is, if you haven't chewed them up beyond use, cut the old fittings off the old lines you are replacing. Then you KNOW they are the right ones!

The only later model stuff that I think is better is the 72 and later 164 vented drums and calipers to match. They will bolt on on the 140s and earlier 164. MIGHT fit the late 1800s. To me the 240 brakes are not a better design but probably a little cheaper.
 

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Poor? Not. The 120/P1800 with front disk/rear drum brakes (single or dual circuit) have very good performance historically. Lousy maintenance, incorrect install/adjustment and faulty operator can cause poor brakes.

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&...=any&safe=images&tbs=&as_filetype=&as_rights=

George Dill
Yeah, I was only speaking of the brakes in my two..... My dad's had a leak in the booster (leather seals or diaphragm, or something?) resulting in loss of pressure and marginal braking, and the one I bought had virtually no brakes (or steering, for that matter!). Only drove that one twice, which was enough for even my reckless teenage sensibilities! The '67, with the resto, will have everything stock brought back up to snuff, but on the '68 I am more interested in replacing the degenerated stuff with whatever works best (if it can even be made roadworthy).
 
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