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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My lady just picked up a nice rig from the big island. After wheeling around this weekend and getting a feel for things, looking to squeeze all the ft/lbs I can out of the 18B. Keeping the intake stock, but want to get the exhaust breathing and sounding right as it is completely shot front to back.

Starting with ceramic headers from IPD, deleting the rusted out resonator, and going *straight* to to the back (possibly stainless).. but looking for a decent quality muffler (like a Bosal or Walker), but all I can find is later style ('74) fuel injected versions. Thoughts? Aloha
 

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Unless your engine is HEAVILY modified you already have the best exhaust you can get.
If your intake manifold has secondary butterflies in it you should remove them and their shafts and plug the holes. They tend to give problems with fully opening the throttles.
Pay particular attention to ignition timing - it makes a BIG difference.
If power seems to be low you might want to check your valve lift. Sometimes cams go bad and that gives a real hit in performance. If you have to replace the cam get a "D" (fuel injection) cam for a few more HP.
 

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My lady just picked up a nice rig from the big island. After wheeling around this weekend and getting a feel for things, looking to squeeze all the ft/lbs I can out of the 18B. Keeping the intake stock, but want to get the exhaust breathing and sounding right as it is completely shot front to back.

Starting with ceramic headers from IPD, deleting the rusted out resonator, and going *straight* to to the back (possibly stainless).. but looking for a decent quality muffler (like a Bosal or Walker), but all I can find is later style ('74) fuel injected versions. Thoughts? Aloha
Consider a delete on the ipd header.

If your 1968 142S B18B is stock and in good condition just visit a competent exhaust shop and hook up to the existing headpipe with a 2" single-muffler fabrication using OE hanger locations.

As mentioned above - look at the intake manifold - if it looks like this rusty mess...

http://www.alanauto.com/pics/Alv308D.jpg

...either do the Walrus plug advice or switch to the aluminum manifold shown.

If you do switch might as well also go with the ipd exhaust header which then leads to the 142E complete Simon exhaust system.

George Dill
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Great advice, much appreciated. :thumbup: The intake and exhaust manifolds have some rust due to living in the pacific salt air, but from the header back is currently the most pressing issue. Not looking for huge performance gains, but do like the $ effective, small seat of your pants gains from exhaust, intake, and timing tweaking.

Thoughts on the the Bosal readily available? There are a couple good exhaust shops that can work the 2" back. Any ideas what hardware will match up '74 muffler to the '68 chassis? Aloha
 

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Great advice, much appreciated. :thumbup: The intake and exhaust manifolds have some rust due to living in the pacific salt air, but from the header back is currently the most pressing issue. Not looking for huge performance gains, but do like the $ effective, small seat of your pants gains from exhaust, intake, and timing tweaking.

Thoughts on the the Bosal readily available? There are a couple good exhaust shops that can work the 2" back. Any ideas what hardware will match up '74 muffler to the '68 chassis? Aloha
Easier to get a direct-fit muffler (Starla)...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/IMC-251-530...pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr

George Dill
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
This is the front resonator correct? I am going to delete the resonator and just do a rear. Any thoughts on Starla vs Waker vs Bosal? Also, the diameter of the '73-'74 is slightly bigger diameter? Closer to 2"? I would expect a slight improvement in torque and lower tone..
 

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This is the front resonator correct? I am going to delete the resonator and just do a rear. Any thoughts on Starla vs Waker vs Bosal? Also, the diameter of the '73-'74 is slightly bigger diameter? Closer to 2"? I would expect a slight improvement in torque and lower tone..
The direct-fit rear muffler is also available.

Pipe diameter on an exhaust for a '68 142 matters little in the 1.75-2.0 inches realm. The flow restrictions are in the head and exhaust manifold/header and in the mufflers/resonators. Some say too big is bad but I don't know what is considered too small.

Any "slight" improvement in torque and tone would be difficult to determine compared to the cars existing exhaust system. Keep in mind that the B18 tends to "drone" at certain speeds - usually at just the cruising speed you like.

George Dill
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Sourced a Starla muffler off fleabay for $40.. dusty vintage stock, but otherwise new. :thumbup:

Anyone figure out a way to get the Virgo center caps or different set of center caps to fit the fronts? Is there a low profile dust cover that can be sourced or is the wheel bearing just underneath?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Door inop - FIXED!

Drivers door lock/latch no longer working. Turned key, heard clunk, now both inner and outer handles move freely and do nothing. Lock plunger will not go down unless outside door button is pushed in. Going to get panel off and in there tomorrow, have the chilton diagram, thoughts?
 

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The outside driver's door handle for '67('66?) through '71 140 is unique to those years despite what you read here...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Volvo-142-L...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item53e75d0264

Once you get the panel off (any luck with those inside handles?) the outside handle can be removed but this may not be needed.

Notice here...

http://i.ebayimg.com/t/Volvo-142-Left-Door-Handle-1968-1974-/00/$(KGrHqIOKnME2d-NGWg!BNv0vzVqJg~~_12.JPG

...that both ends of the operating rod have failable fasteners and this is usually what needs fixin'.

If you are lucky it will be just a matter of re-attaching/adjusting everything which will then allow the Lady to get in/out without crawling over the front seats.

George Dill
 

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Throw the Chilton manual away. Either the Green Volvo manual or Haynes (or a couple others I forget now) are MUCH better.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Much appreciate the words of wisdom.. definitely feels like something along the lines of "...that both ends of the operating rod have failable fasteners and this is usually what needs fixin'." Had to work this morning and couldn't make it to NAPA in time for the window crank puller, but cannot wait to get that panel off. Thanks for all the links!!
 

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Don't need a window crank puller. Put a screwdriver between the handle and the plastic ring and push or pull the spring clip in there and it will let go. Sometimes a hook made of coathanger wire is handy for this. You can also spread the legs of the spring clip. They are harder to keep together than to get apart!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Pushed down on the trim ring to release the spring clip and seemed to release but the crank didn't want to pop off the spindle. Was hesitant to pry on the plastic trim ring being 44 years old.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
The Starla muffler that arrived was in fact the front center resonator, but went ahead with the original plan as it had taken forever to get here and the rig was running like garbage. Great shop did custom work in 2" pipe.. you guys are right about the growl. :D Sounds pretty good, but do you think there is any difference between the sound levels and/or performance characteristics between the center resonator and rear muffler? Previously deleted the resonator on other rigs with great results but never the reverse. Definitely breathing better anyways.
 

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The Starla muffler that arrived was in fact the front center resonator, but went ahead with the original plan as it had taken forever to get here and the rig was running like garbage. Great shop did custom work in 2" pipe.. you guys are right about the growl. :D Sounds pretty good, but do you think there is any difference between the sound levels and/or performance characteristics between the center resonator and rear muffler? Previously deleted the resonator on other rigs with great results but never the reverse. Definitely breathing better anyways.
We ain't gonna believe you until we see and hear your 142 loudpipe on youtube...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5WA64-BdWJw

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&...=any&safe=images&tbs=&as_filetype=&as_rights=

George Dill
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
What a PITA.. after finally getting the window crank, handle trim, and panel screws off.. peering down at the mechanism it appeared to be stuck mostly in the open position. Popped open with a coat hanger and a good tug!?! Felt like an idiot for not getting in there with some Triflow at the first sign of trouble. Otherwise, thanks for the help!
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Well.. a simple greasing didn't last long. Continued to stick shut, and now will not fully latch. Definitely appears to be the mechanism itself as all the linkages appear to be working just fine. Anyone have a lead on a used mechanism? Or what other models are compatible? Will one from a '75 164 work? Aloha
 
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