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Discussion Starter · #141 ·
I would lke to keep it simple, believe me, but that Ferrari has totally different lines.. Plus the grille position is way off, so the bumper options are totally different.. Unless you have this car in front of you, it is hard to imagine how complex it really is. Obviously the P1800 was not meant to have bumpers in the design phase, and they were after thoughts during the actually manufacturing. It is such a beautiful body with complex compound curves, but there are some severe design flaws with the accesories to the body. The wheel arch position doesnt make any sense at all, the fact that the inner wheel wells are so tall but they let the actual wheel arches affect the ride hieght, doesnt make any sense at all. Take a look at the wheel arch postion right now, along with the ride hieght, and tell me that the factory arches arent in the wrong position and doesnt affect proper wheel clearance and ride height.

I guess what I am trying to explain is, until you actually break this car down and compare it to others out there, you dont really see how far out some of this stuff affects the overall flow of this car. Dont get me wrong, this car is beautiful and unique from the factory, but that doesnt make it perfect in every way. LOL
 

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Discussion Starter · #142 ·
Here is the MASKING TAPE UPDATE. I have to do a bit of centering and finishing edges, but I want to make sure the concept looks right before I go through all the trouble. I am considering bringing the bottom to a slight upward plane as it moves toward the outside. I figure is should start on the outside of the air scoop, then move outward and upward from there. I will also be adding a bottom lip of some sort, and this should give a final finishing flat outline. And the side profile will be a continuation of the wheel arch lip and flare, which should give it nice transition







 

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That looks good now. Perhaps just angle up the ends of the air dam to follow the line of the wheel well when viewed from the front? And a small splitter on the bottom edge of the air dam would work, but not too large (up to maybe 1/2" out) unless you're looking for more front downforce.
 

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This bumper conforms closest to the original concept, however! I think the problem is that it is too thick. I think if you could slice a strip out of the entire length of the bumper and then weld it back together, and then give the bullhorns more of a taper instead of the blunt rounded end then you'd be spot on. I can photoshop a pic to help with visualization.
 

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so... something like this? cut material out along black lines



weld back together, shape more of a taper into the bullhorns. Difference is subtle but makes a huge impact on the look of the car. Original on top, pshopped on bottom.

 

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Discussion Starter · #148 ·
Here are a few pictures of my first fender to air dam blend... Kind of curvy, but I think it fits the car.. I will be working with a couple of other variations, and I hope it isnt as difficult as the actual airdam was.. Dont pay a whole of attention to the purple stencils, I am trying to use them as reference points for the brake vent holes.









 

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I had to join this forum to just let you know that you are doing amazing work and can't wait to see the end result. I, like many, was blown away by the original rendering. To see it come to life is very exciting.

For what its worth, I prefer the double reverse horn bumper.

Also, is that a Chevelle SS in your garage as well? My father in law has a Chevelle that same year and color pattern. It's basically complete but he is constantly getting new things to "complete" it even more, (factory glove compartment light, proper rear wheel cover, etc.) He is thinking about swapping out the engine and getting larger rims.
 

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Discussion Starter · #150 ·
I had to join this forum to just let you know that you are doing amazing work and can't wait to see the end result. I, like many, was blown away by the original rendering. To see it come to life is very exciting.

For what its worth, I prefer the double reverse horn bumper.

Also, is that a Chevelle SS in your garage as well? My father in law has a Chevelle that same year and color pattern. It's basically complete but he is constantly getting new things to "complete" it even more, (factory glove compartment light, proper rear wheel cover, etc.) He is thinking about swapping out the engine and getting larger rims.
I really appreciate the kind words.. And yes, that is a 72 Chevelle Project we have.. We are always have several things going on at once in the shop, dont know when to stop.. We also have an interesting line of Vintage Triumph Motorcycle's, that are resemble a classy style Boardtrack Racer/Drag bike..
 

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Discussion Starter · #151 ·
Here are some pics with the bumper installed.. I also tried Narrowing the bumpers a bit, I think the bumper shop can take it from here.. I really just collapsed with with a bench vise to the smallest thickness I can go, it did make a difference.. You may see a bit of difference between the drivers and passenger side, because I pushed the drivers side a bit more than I did the passenger.. The passenger has about an inch less overall thickness than factory, so the drivers is a bit more.





 

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Discussion Starter · #153 · (Edited)
I am sure you guys are getting tired of the Front End updates, so here is a bit of suspension. I got my lower control arms in today, so we are back to trying to get things where they will work out.. Once I get everything where it fits the car, We will start all over and have a clean and workable product that supports readily available Mustang II components.

We trying to make a crossmember kit that is a direct bolt in, there will be no Welding or cutting involved to any of the body or unibody frame work. This should make a nice kit for the Novice builder that would like better handling and more engine options if wanted. These kits will support the original Volvo drivetrain also, but will allow it to sit in a lower postion if desired. My Ls1 V8 actually sits lower and further back than the original Volvo 4cylinder motor, and this is with No ground clearance issues.





 

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The Mustang II front end does offer a lot of options. Stock or lowered spindles, standard & power rack & pinion, adjustable arms, etc...
I am definitely interested in a future purchase.

The 1800 steering gearbox is TERRIBLE! Steering feedback is poor, excessive lock to lock turns, steering effort is high, and no new gearbox replacements or parts are available.
So very often I see a thread on the 1800 list for the desire to have power steering or rack & pinion control.
So I could see two different front end kits offered.
1. Stock Mustang II with power steering, 5 lug discs, and stock engine mounts. (need 2 different 5 lug options, early & late Volvo)
2. Full performance version.

My only concern would be to document which front end has the better geometry for handling. Volvo or Mustang II ?? If the Volvo is better, perhaps just engineer a power steering rack.
 

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Discussion Starter · #155 · (Edited)
The Mustang II front end does offer a lot of options. Stock or lowered spindles, standard & power rack & pinion, adjustable arms, etc...
I am definitely interested in a future purchase.

The 1800 steering gearbox is TERRIBLE! Steering feedback is poor, excessive lock to lock turns, steering effort is high, and no new gearbox replacements or parts are available.
So very often I see a thread on the 1800 list for the desire to have power steering or rack & pinion control.
So I could see two different front end kits offered.
1. Stock Mustang II with power steering, 5 lug discs, and stock engine mounts. (need 2 different 5 lug options, early & late Volvo)
2. Full performance version.

My only concern would be to document which front end has the better geometry for handling. Volvo or Mustang II ?? If the Volvo is better, perhaps just engineer a power steering rack.
I can promise you, the Geometry will be better than the factory Volvo... LOL Paul Horton Welder Series offers quality products and these kits will be engineered to be best that can fit under the factory chassis without butchering. We will also be working on New Adjustable 4-link arms and coil over mounting bar attachment, which will allow proper rear adjustment and bigger tires due to the elimination of the coil springs.

Another project that I am working on with a reputable company, and will be announced later, are custom gauges that will fit in the existing gauge pods.. The gauges will probably be offered in the orignal face and a tasteful custom retro pattern. They will also be easy to hook up electronic models.. The Speedometer will be operated by Acutal GPS, and or mechanical/electronic conversion, which will eliminate the speedo cable problem and innaccuracy's.

If any of you guys in the in P1800 Community would need any parts of this build, let me know, and I will see if I can get it produced for you.. These products so far, with the exception of my glass kit, are being handed off to the seperate manufactures for production, and the level of production and risk is based off what they feel comfortable with. This is the time to get something done if any of you see the need, so please discuss it and give me some feedback that I can encourage them with. The P1800 lacks so much in parts support, aftermarket or factory, that it affects the value and interest in the car.. I am not personally producing any of them with the exception of the glass kits, it would considerable expense, so I would rather convince the individual manufactures there is an untapped market.
 

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so what new ideas did you do with the lower valance? updates please!

also, i'm about to do a new paint job on my 1800. thinking along the line of khaki or creamish white. OR something like eleanor in gone in 60 seconds?

what color are you planning to put on your 1800, iamtheonlyreal1?
 

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Discussion Starter · #157 ·
I will be working on the cut-outs for the Brake Vent this week, along with the rest of the suspension. I plan on painting the car a silver tone color, dont have the actual color picked out yet, I normally wait till the day before paint for that decision.. LOL
 

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Discussion Starter · #158 · (Edited)
Ok, we finally have a bit of an update.. I remove the pieces of the front end and starting putting together the mock up unit for the manufacturer.. Please keep in mind, I will not be using this unit, this is just being used to get the mounting of all the components and get the geometry right.. It will be completely made from scratch after this, so I havent taken alot of care to fill in the blanks.... ha ha

After the actual piece is made it should bolt right into the body using the existing holes, and be totally self contained all the way to the Coil over Perch's.. I still have to add them, but I need to bolt it back up to the car, so I can determine the perch location at ride hieght.. There appears to be plenty of room for a Conventional Coil Over sitting at about 12-13 inches neutral position in the ride height position. I am guessing that will allow more than enough suspension travel.







 

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Discussion Starter · #159 ·
Well, I finally got the Volvo set on the ground, it got dark, so I couldnt roll it out in the parking lot for pictures. The front end looks like it is going to work awsome, and it really opened up the engine bay.. It literally just slides under the car with ease, so I think it will be something a novice can do without a whole lot of issue, once the kits are offered.

My firewall is cut, but it isnt necessary.. I had to cut it for the 2jz Supra motor, that is why I am going with the LS1. We will have some engine stand that will support the factory Volvo motor in the crossmember.

I also see the Air Dam is going to have to be dialed in a bit, that is why I really want to roll it outside for a real world perspective.









 

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Looks great! I really like the front bumper, it works very nicely with the existing and tweaked lines of the car :cool: I see a lot of 1957 Ferrari 250 Testa Rossa in the front end, specifically in the relation between the grille and lights (which is a good thing in my humble opinion)

I also see some minor 74-75 Camaro influences, again a good thing :D

The only minor detail I'd change is to pull the bottom corners of the lower valence upwards a bit, only about a 1/2". It would serve to visually unify it with the upward sweep of the bumpers. Right now, even though they are straight and line up with the wheel arches, they appear to droop downwards when viewed from a distance.

Here's a photoshop of the change:


I sincerely don't mean to be an armchair quarterback, especially since I'm not capable of doing a build of this quality, but I just thought I'd make a small suggestion.
 
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