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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Greetings All! I have my car stripped out totally including the cross member. The shock towers are broken out badly. Q1- Are the holes for the shocks in the front the same as the holes in rear? The rear holes measure half inch and appear to have a stainless washer stuck in the recessed area.
I have liquid stripped the body, trunk and hood (outside skins only)(both doors still have original paint & no rust) and sprayed Dupont #215s Acrylic Primer over bare metal. Q2- What's the best primer for bare metal? Is epoxy best way to go?
I'm trying to get my car rollable so my last question for now is; Are Poly bushings the best way to go for the suspension? I won't be doing the metal or painting but I'd like to do as much prep work as I am able. I don't want to create more work or muck it up for the next step. I own a Canvas/Upholstery business in FL that caters to boats and yatchs of all sizes. When I figure out how to upload pictures from my 'puter I'll post some. Any tips and suggestions are welcomed and appreciated! Thanks again, HarveyK
 

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Greetings All! I have my car stripped out totally including the cross member. The shock towers are broken out badly. Q1- Are the holes for the shocks in the front the same as the holes in rear? The rear holes measure half inch and appear to have a stainless washer stuck in the recessed area.
I have liquid stripped the body, trunk and hood (outside skins only)(both doors still have original paint & no rust) and sprayed Dupont #215s Acrylic Primer over bare metal. Q2- What's the best primer for bare metal? Is epoxy best way to go?
I'm trying to get my car rollable so my last question for now is; Are Poly bushings the best way to go for the suspension? I won't be doing the metal or painting but I'd like to do as much prep work as I am able. I don't want to create more work or muck it up for the next step. I own a Canvas/Upholstery business in FL that caters to boats and yatchs of all sizes. When I figure out how to upload pictures from my 'puter I'll post some. Any tips and suggestions are welcomed and appreciated! Thanks again, HarveyK
Welcome to Swedespeed, Harvey.

Given that your '66 1800S will be toodlin' along salty Jensen Beach it is probably best to finish the bare metal just as a marine shop would do.

The reason the shock towers have washers? This is a known weak area in the suspension and it may be best to weld in a reinforcement piece both front and rear then drill out the piece to match the shock mounting washers.

Poly bushes are great for crisp handling and long life but do not isolate components as well as rubber so if you want a soft ride go with rubber bushes and soft shocks.

To upload pics...

http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?157549-How-to-post-pictures-in-a-thread

...and something to do when not stretching canvas...

http://volvo1800pictures.com/sweden/Volvo_1800_dokumentation_main_page_en.php

...is to download each of the documents that apply to your Volvo (save a copy of each on your 'puter) then stay up all nights reading about the Volvo 1800 instead of Boats&Broads.

Let's see some pics!

Thanks.

George Dill
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
George, thanks for the links. I'll try inserting my first picture. I've visited the other page with the documentation but nothing appears as a link to open any individual doc.. If I right click (on any doc.)the only save option I have is to "save img as". Maybe I'm missing something. I'm pretty naive in regards to shocks I'll do some research; any recommendations? Thanks again.


 

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Pictures look good - nice work.

The front shock has the same application as a '55 Ford and the rear shock can be found in Monroe, KYB, Bilstein, Koni, Gabriel, etc. anywhere from $40 to $140.

Do you plan to run stock coil springs?

George Dill
 

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Greetings All! I have my car stripped out totally including the cross member. The shock towers are broken out badly. Q1- Are the holes for the shocks in the front the same as the holes in rear? The rear holes measure half inch and appear to have a stainless washer stuck in the recessed area.
I have liquid stripped the body, trunk and hood (outside skins only)(both doors still have original paint & no rust) and sprayed Dupont #215s Acrylic Primer over bare metal. Q2- What's the best primer for bare metal? Is epoxy best way to go?
I'm trying to get my car rollable so my last question for now is; Are Poly bushings the best way to go for the suspension? I won't be doing the metal or painting but I'd like to do as much prep work as I am able. I don't want to create more work or muck it up for the next step. I own a Canvas/Upholstery business in FL that caters to boats and yatchs of all sizes. When I figure out how to upload pictures from my 'puter I'll post some. Any tips and suggestions are welcomed and appreciated! Thanks again, HarveyK
This gentleman can assist in your efforts...

http://forums.swedespeed.com/showth...olvo-1800S-restoration-project!-(Build-Thread)

George Dill
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
George thanks again for your guidance. I was planning to use the stock springs she came with. They came out in one piece with no rust or any obvious damage. Considering the cars age would you advise getting new ones? Is there a way to test them? My goal is to just have a "Sweet, Comfortable Ride". I'm not going for concourse worthy but I don't want a hacked bondo filled car at all! I Don't want to compromise on the metal or paint. I think I have a real solid frame except for one area of the driver side kick up rail. Here's a link to my photo's of all the damaged or rusted spots. Floor pans are clean and rust free.
http://harveyk.imgur.com
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Looking good!

The springs should be ok. Any obvious length difference?

George Dill
Two measure 12 1/4" tall and two at 151/8" tall. The paper tags I used for labeling disintegrated so I'm not sure which pair came from front or rear!
HarveyK
 
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