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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
50 HP for $60

Sorry for the bait and switch but.. after losing ~50HP I replaced my TCV solenoid and fixed the problem. However, after my first run with the GTECH, the problem is back. I have read the recommendation by Jim to put a filter inline to reduce the reliability issues. <p>My first question is: being that the lines to the TCV are closed loop, are the particulates coming from degredation in the rubber and if so would a set of metal lines permanently fix this? If so how much of a PITA would i be to install?<p>Second question: how do you check the solenoid for proper operation out of the car? What voltage has to be applied to make the switch so that it could be blown clean?<p>
 

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Re: 50 HP for $60 (martynunya)

wow... this thread definately isn't about what I thought it was going to be about... I was about to buy a Turbonator! hahahah
 

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Re: 50 HP for $60 (JOSBRO)

sorry guys, just very disappointed with the TCV. I dont want to set any red flags with my dealer by going in every week to replace the damn thing.
 

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Re: 50 HP for $60 (martynunya)

Did the dealer actually replace this item without fuss? Did you have to specifically request that they inspect the TCV, or did they note it during a drive and address it all by themselves?<p>- Tryg
 

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Re: 50 HP for $60 (martynunya)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>martynunya</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"><br>My first question is: being that the lines to the TCV are closed loop..</TD></TR></TABLE><p>That system in not closed loop. The source of pressure is the raw boost from the compressor side of the turbo. The same air that goes into the engine after coming thru the filter and MAF, but PCV stuff gets feed in too IIRC. That raw boost then goes to the solenoid valve. The excess gets bled back into the intake path post-MAF. The controlled pressure gets sent at a level of ~ 4 psi to the wastegate actuator when max boost is acheived.<p>
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Re: 50 HP for $60 (RainyS60R)

I did the replacement myself. As soon as it was installed, I drove the car and used the butt dyno. Later I used the gtech and verified the power was back (1 run), the second run showed that the problem was back. I am wondering if there is anything I am doing during the runs to cause it to go bad. I understand that the reliability is poor with these solenoids, but am wondering if I am doing something to trigger the failures.
 

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Re: 50 HP for $60 (martynunya)

I wonder if a PCV related issue could cause crap to get into the lines. I would replace the raw boost line with silicone hose thuis cleaning it and allaying your fear of the rubber breaking down. <p><A HREF="http://www.hosetechniques.com/catalog_products.tpl?cart=115037041811910924&category=SVH%20by%20the%20foot" TARGET="_blank">http://www.hosetechniques.com/...0foot</A><p>Add a filter at the same time.
 

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Re: 50 HP for $60 (martynunya)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>martynunya</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks Jim, but which line is the raw boost line(color coded on the TCV)? </TD></TR></TABLE><p>There is a map of those lines on the underside of the hood, above the master cylinder
 

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Re: (martynunya)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>martynunya</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Another question Jim, is there any way to operate the solenoid out of the car?</TD></TR></TABLE><p>You can apply 12V for very short periods (I think)... remember it normally gets PWM signal.<p>
 
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