[Righteous R]

Hey guys! Would like to start off by saying that this forum is an outstanding resource. I have had my currently stock R for about six months now. Overall I love the car. Handling and braking performance are impressive. My future plans are to go with a DP/catback and the IPD stage 2 tune.

My front passenger shock is leaking and I am getting a clucking noise when going over bumps. Not getting a code or error message yet. I gather these cars eat spring seats and have ordered the IPD heavy duty ones, two 4C shocks C2501, and will need to get a SUM recalibration afterwards.

My question is what other parts are needed when replacing the shocks and spring seats? Will I need new versions of various mounting nut/etc listed in this link?
http://www.ipdusa.com/prodtype.asp?CAT_ID=987&numRecordPosition=0&categorycrumbs=

Some helpful links I found through this site detailing the process.
http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?142266-DIY-Suspension-install...-(especially-for-Fitzy...)&highlight=shock+install

http://www.freewebs.com/howardsvolvos/suspension.htm

http://members.shaw.ca/heeeeee/strut/

If I don’t DIY on this job what’s a ballpark figure on labor? Also would it be cost effective to do new LCA at this time as well? The car has 70,000 miles on it.
I am far from an accomplished mechanic and will need all the guidance I can get.
Can’t wait to get this Camry running right! Thanks

 

[DevolvR]

You can also get the XC90 Spring seats, these are essentially the same as the IPD HD spring seats.

Struts are also available through RockAuto, which is a much cheaper alternative to the dealer prices or even from IPD.

RockAuto:

http://forums.swedespeed.com/showth...ck-in-stock-at-Rock-Auto&p=1748781&viewfull=1

 

[ions]

I would do new LCAs and Ball Joints since the bushing in those things go out pretty early, mine were shot at 58k.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Righteous R]

DevolvR, - I had seen that thread and did save some cash with the Rock Auto for the Struts. They arrived last night and Evilspoons was right they weren’t packed that well.

 

[dustbom05]

I need to replace my front shocks in my R. I figured I would replace my rears while im at it. Just to make sure, are the part numbers C2501 and C1501 for the 05's as well?

 

[BmCR]

I would do new LCAs and Ball Joints since the bushing in those things go out pretty early, mine were shot at 58k.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You don't pull any part of the LCA off when doing the struts, but it is for sure something to look at and most likely will need to replace. You could also throw on some lowering springs too

I replaced my fronts with C2502 and they seemed like a direct replacement, only missing the little tab to secure the brake line but nothing a zip tie couldn't fix. And rock auto does suck big ones at packing, or Monroe since they probably throw them in the box.

One other thing is you may as well replace the end links since you will have one end of it removed for the struts. Thats the one other thing i wished i had replaced. Other than that, possible strut bearings depending on the milage. I was at 80K miles and mine seemed pretty good. Good luck, it's not that difficult of a process.

 

[thegrapist]

Check the sway bar end links. I had the most awful clunking noise from a busted sway bar end link when I thought it was a faulty ball joint.

While you're in there, I would do the ball joints, control arm bushings, do the spring seats + strut mounts (oem xc 90), replace the strut mount lock nuts, and replace the strut mount caps.

If you do it yourself, you'll need these two tools:
http://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-strut-tool-cta-a446
http://www.amazon.com/OEM-25550-Strut-Spring-Compressor/dp/B000CMDPLM

And this will make your life easier:
http://www.harborfreight.com/11-3-4-quarter-inch-ball-joint-separator-1740.html

The only thing you have to worry about is not separating the strut and spring assembly while it's under pressure, not breaking/stressing any of the wires (wheel speed sensor, yaw control/height sensor or whatever the hell that sensor is that mounts to the strut, and the wires going to the new shock), if you can do that, properly torque things, and follow simple directions you'll be fine. You may have trouble pressing in the new bushings, but worst case scenario take the control arm to a body shop or garage and it'll take them a few minutes.

 

[dustbom05]

I need to replace my front shocks in my R. I figured I would replace my rears while im at it. Just to make sure, are the part numbers C2501 and C1501 for the 05's as well?

Still loking for an answer? Anyone with 05's that have ordered new shocks? I know your out there...

 

[prienzo]

Still loking for an answer? Anyone with 05's that have ordered new shocks? I know your out there...

The C2501 and 2502 should both work. For the rears, the 1501 and 1503 seem to both work, but the 1501 are slightly shorter. I went with 2501 and 1501, but have yet to install.

 

[o2k]

does anyone know when the lastest SUM software update was?

 

[TJM 04S60R]

You should do the struts, spring seats and bearing plates as the minimal parts to be replaced. They can all wear out and may make noise if you put new struts in the old parts. The LCAs, ball joints, endlinks and tie rod ends are all worth looking at while you are in there, but don't need to be removed to do the struts. Now is the time for lowering springs if you want them. If you have an indy do it, labor should not be too ugly, just make sure they are ok with you providing the parts. I replaced the front struts and did TME springs on all four corners in about 6 hours. Could do it much faster now that I know how to get it all apart. So a decent indy should be able to do it reasonably fast.