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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I'm on the fence about putting more money into this car and not really racing it often enough next year vs. picking up an Amazon or P444/544 and casually cruise with the woman and kid.

Here's the build thread:

It runs very well, but I am currently getting the MS updated with a new fuel injector controller. Once that's back, and the car fires back up, I'll have a better idea of what my next step is with it.

The basics:
B21FT bottom end
530 head (ported) with enlarged exhaust/intake valves
IPD Turbo cam
Custom intake with 94 throttle body
Tubular header
19T with Turbonetics MBC
CX Racing intercooler
3" DP - with 3" Magnaflow racing cat into 3" magnaflow muffler and side exit exhaust (Not the prettiest).
MS2, v3.0 - running fuel only
MSD6AL + Blaster 2 coil with 8.5mm MSD wires
Wideband 02 (PLX wideband system)
New PCV box
Mishimoto catch can
eFan with 2 speed switch
100A Denso alt
AC delete bracket for PS
Nissen radiator
Kevlar timing belt
remote oil filter relocation

Fuel System:
46lb Deka injectors
-6AN braided fuel line with edelbrock racing fuel filter
New KJet main fuel pump
New fuel sender
New 740T in-tank pump

Borg Warner WC T5 (freshly rebuilt) with Hurst short-throw
Spec Stage 3+ clutch
Mustang GT driveshaft
1031 axle (stock 3.73 ratio)
IPD adj torque rods
Adj panhard

Suspension & Brakes:
Koni adjustable struts/shocks (F/R)
Strut to firewall chassis braces
Front: Eibach 2.5" coil springs (300lb) with 4" helper springs (11 lbs)
New strut mounts
New control arms with poly bushings
25mm IPD sway with poly and poly endlinks
Slotted rotors with new pads
Rebuilt calipers
IPD Stainless brake lines
All new hard lines
Rear: Eibach 5" racing springs (225lb)
Slotted rotors with akebono ceramics
Rebuilt calipers
IPD Stainless brake lines

Gutted with full cage (Rally America spec)
Corbeau racing seats
Corbeau 5-point harnesses with FIA approved mounting plates, hardware, and locations.
Custom gauge cluster with Autometer speedo (Mustang GT speedometer cable) and VDO gauges (temp, oil pressure, boost, volt, fuel) - all white-faced gauges, all work
PLX digital AFR gauge - touchscreen
Autogauge Tach
R-Sport steering wheel (with black wheelskin cover).
Manual window conversion (fronts only - rear power windows disconnected)
Passenger "rally" foot brace

16" BBS RS wheels on 16mm spacers up front, 25mm spacers out back
225 series Dunlop Star Spec Z1
Hood pins
Manual side-view mirrors
side trim removed and holes plugged with plastic plugs
Lower valence painted with truck bed-liner spray (as rock protection)
black door handles, tailgate latch, and hinges.
Cheesy carbon fiber vinyl on roof (paint sucked, needed a quick fix for presentation)

The car ran strong. The driveshaft angle needs to be fine-tuned, but it shifts perfectly and clutch feels phenomenal.

Suspension is perfectly tuned, at least for the event I ran it in. Very flat around corners, and not bouncy or jarring. Brakes are great. Tires are fantastic. I was not afraid to drive this car FAST on rough roads.

Body is straight with minimal areas of rust, but the paint is sketchy on the roof and tailgate. Floor are solid and were fixed by the guy who fabbed the roll-cage.

My plans if I keep it:
Replace block with 2.5L stoker block (have Penta aq151 with forged crank and rods tapped for turbo oil return line already).
Wasted spark - have components on the way and was going to get MS3 box to run it.
Install LSD
Big brake kit up front - have the brackets for Wilwood calipers already, but no calipers or rotors.

Ideally, I'd like to get $4-5K for the car once I get it running. If anybody is interested in the stroker block with this car, I'd be a lot less negotiable on the price. Like I said, I'm still on the fence, but my racing options for this area and my personal life are factoring into my thought process on this.

I may also be willing to trailer it within a reasonable distance for the price of gas.


3,481 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
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