SwedeSpeed - Volvo Performance Forum banner
1 - 19 of 19 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Got the wagon on the road yesterday, its got a massive misfire on cylinder 2, I can unplug the plug wire and idle does not change. I changed the wire, plug, cap, all that, nothing. I unplug the injector and plug it back in, I can feel it pulsing. Any ideas what would cause this? There is so much fuel in the exhaust it burns your eyes, and I cant drive it because it fills the car. :mad:

Just tried switching injectors with cylinder 1 and 2 and didnt change anything...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
<embed width="600" height="361" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowFullscreen="true" allowNetworking="all" wmode="transparent" src="http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf" flashvars="file=http%3A%2F%2Fvid33.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fd93%2Ftyster1980%2Fphotobucket-27752-1350199387444.mp4">
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,126 Posts
What year, ignition and fuel systems? And the video didn't work for me.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Failing Hall sensor?

George Dill
I did the tac test tonight, it stays at or below 0 until it starts. I do have the signal wire to the coil, so not sure if that matters. Does anyone know how easy it is to pull the whole distributor out? Roommate had a good running 240 I would like to try his to make sure thats my problem before I buy one.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
19,953 Posts
I did the tac test tonight, it stays at or below 0 until it starts. I do have the signal wire to the coil, so not sure if that matters. Does anyone know how easy it is to pull the whole distributor out? Roommate had a good running 240 I would like to try his to make sure thats my problem before I buy one.
Assuming you plan to pull the dizzy from the roomate's 240 do that first. Best bet on both cars is to pull the spark plugs, rotate the engine manually to #1 TDC (keep this setting 'til the dizzy is reinstalled) then swap the distributors.

For grins you might want to be sure the donor engine runs ok before starting any swap work then once the swap is done see if the donor engine will start/run ok with the different dizzy then try your car with the donor dizzy.

If the #2 cylinder continues to get gas but no spark even after the dizzy swap look closely at both ends of the #2 spark plug wire for continuity and also inspect the coil terminal for that wire for full engagement.

George Dill
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Assuming you plan to pull the dizzy from the roomate's 240 do that first. Best bet on both cars is to pull the spark plugs, rotate the engine manually to #1 TDC (keep this setting 'til the dizzy is reinstalled) then swap the distributors.

For grins you might want to be sure the donor engine runs ok before starting any swap work then once the swap is done see if the donor engine will start/run ok with the different dizzy then try your car with the donor dizzy.

If the #2 cylinder continues to get gas but no spark even after the dizzy swap look closely at both ends of the #2 spark plug wire for continuity and also inspect the coil terminal for that wire for full engagement.

George Dill
#2 cylinder already gets spark, so hoping its just firing at the wrong time. will see though. Any pointers on getting #1 to TDC? is there any marks on anything?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
19,953 Posts
#2 cylinder already gets spark, so hoping its just firing at the wrong time. will see though. Any pointers on getting #1 to TDC? is there any marks on anything?
Hmmmm - "...firing at the wrong time..." - check the firing order and follow each plug wire to be sure it goes to the correct cylinder.

To set TDC...

Remove all spark plugs and dizzy cap.

Determine the direction of rotation for the rotor in the dizzy.

Determine the firing order for the engine.

Determine which terminal in the dizzy cap is for the #1 cylinder.

Rotate the engine by hand until the rotor points to the #1 terminal if the cap were on the dizzy.

Carefully insert that short red straw from a WD40 can into the #1 cylinder spark plug hole but DO NOT release the straw until you are certain the other end is touching the top of the #1 piston.

If the straw wants to fall too far into the cylinder remove the straw and rotate the engine by hand in the direction of dizzy rotation until the rotor again points to the #1 terminal.

Insert the straw but DO NOT release it until you are certain that the straw is resting on top iof the #1 piston.

Once the straw is correctly in place rotate the engine slightly by hand both CW and CCW and watch the visible end of the straw. When that end of the straw is at its lowest point you have TDC.

Whew!

George Dill

Pics and details...

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=255610
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,126 Posts
^ +1, plus:

What ignition and fuel systems? If the fuel system is LH 2.0 or 2.2 the injectors fire as a batch, so if get spark and fuel at the other cylinders but only spark at #2 then you may have a bum injector or a problem with the harness. Check the injectors with an ohmmeter; IIRC you should get about 12 ohms at all injectors, so if #2 reads off, you have at least one probable cause for your problem.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
injector is fine, spark is fine... its getting both of those. I am hoping its the hall sensor as my tach drops below 0 when starting the car.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
19,953 Posts
injector is fine, spark is fine... its getting both of those. I am hoping its the hall sensor as my tach drops below 0 when starting the car.
That is normal as the ignition switch momentarily interrupts the power when the starter is engaged.

Have you confirmed that the spark plug wires are inserted into the distributor cap in the correct order and also are attached to the correct spark plug per firing order and direction of rotation for the distributor?

Are you certain which terminal on the distributor cap is for the #1 cylinder?

George Dill
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
firing order is the first thing I checked when I got the car running. Plugs are plugged is as per the online resources I found.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Did a compression test today, 160+/- on all cylinders accept for #2. its at 90 psi. Any ideas? Bad valve would make me think there would be no compression at all. but I could be wrong. When I bent valves in my last car there was no compression at all in the cylinders. Its not rings as there is no smoke in the exhaust.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,126 Posts
Did you do both dry and wet tests? If you didn't do a wet test, do it and see #2 goes up closer to the other readings. If so, it could be rings. If you have or can get to someone with the correct equipment, do a leak-down test and note the results.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
19,953 Posts
It appears #2 has been running rich and raw for some time and the gas may have washed the oil seal at the rings causing rapid cylinder wear. No smoke in the exhaust is not a sure indicator of good ring seal especially if the plug is not firing.

George Dill
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
a bad hall effect sensor would affect all cylinders.


90 psi is not enough to light. if you want to know rings or valves here is how: squirt a small amount of oil into cylinder. let soak for a bit. recheck compression. if it is rings then the compression will come up due to the oil sealing the rings. if compression does not come up then you have valve problem.

CAUTION!!!!----when injecting oil in the cylinder, do not put too much in the cylinder, you will hydro lock that bitch and bend a rod. I have seen it happen. if you think you have too much oil in there, crank the engine over multiple times with the spark plug removed. this will hopefully blow out the excess oil.

If you want to know the professional way to check where the problem is, here is how: get a cylinder leak down tester. set affected cylinder to TDC compression stroke (intake and exh valves must be closed) connect air supply to leak down tester. listen for air escaping through exhaust, intake, or oil fill in valve cover. air coming from exh means bad exh valve .....
 
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
Top