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how much is a 242 gt worth? it has 155k miles.. and its a 5 speed.. loaded.. it has a dented door. paints ok... interrior is good, it has 15 inch alloys, and new tires. Assuming theres nothing majorly wrong with it, what would you pay for it? THe guy is asking $2000. Is that fair? or should we bargain.<P>~Jason<P>P.S. this is for a friend<P>
 

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It's a 4spd+OD, so make sure the overdrive works. What year is the car? The '79 GT was the best because it had stiffer front springs, a 21mm front sway bar, a 23mm rear sway bar, and upper chassis braces. The handling of the '79 GT is said to be perfectly neutral (most 240s have slight understeer). If it's a '78, it's basically a trim & graphics package, so the suspension is nothing special. An '80 is similar to a '78, in that it doesn't have the nice suspension from '79. I think the '80 only had upper chassis braces, but it did have the 5 spoke alloy wheels that continued to be used on the GLT/Turbo.<P>The biggest thing to look for on any older Volvo is rust. Pull up the carpet and inspect the floorboards. Water leaks through the windshield, firewall, or from sunroof drains are not uncommon. Also try to check the motor mounts and bushings. Find the oil filter on the passengers side of the engine and make sure there's a good bit of clearance between the filter and the motor mount (1/2" to an inch, usually). If the car makes clunking sounds when starting from a stop, or when reversing, the rear suspension bushings may be worn (bad traling arm bushings will affect the ride quality and ride height while also making noise). I could go on, but it may be better to have the car inspected by a trusted Volvo mechanic.<P>I don't know what the 242 GT usually sells for, but I would guess that $1000-$1500 would be a reasonable price if the car is in good shape for being 20+ years old. Maintenance records would be helpful too, if there are any. If your friend decides to buy the car, he/she should do a complete tuneup (plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel/air filters, etc.) and replace the vacuum lines because they're probably dried and cracked, which can cause problems with idling and running rough. Replacing the injector seals may be a good idea too because they dry out and also will cause the car to stumble and idle rough.<P>Good luck.<P>
 

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107hp @ 5250rpm, 114lb-ft @ 2500<P>However, if the car is from Canada, I think it would have a B23E (2.3L high compression) that's rated at 140HP. It should be easy to tell just by driving the car because the B23E has a high lift cam, so it pulls strong all the way to 6000rpm (peak HP is at 5750), but the low end isn't very strong (141lb-ft, but it peaks at 4100rpm).<P>
 
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