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Hi,<P>Sometime this past week my car (86 240 DL manual transmission) was begun to have a hard time starting, and if you dont give it gas immediately it just dies. At stop lights when my foot is off the gas (car not in gear), it also dies. I have no idea what it is.... but i also noticed that sometimes in a 3 -> 2 downshift it stalls too. <P>Any ideas on what it could be? It will be in for service next week, and i cant let it be there for more than 5 days, so hopefully it isnt major.<P>
 

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how does it idle? high/low? also what is its power like?<P>hopefuly its just that your revs are a little low.<P>michael.<P>
 

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well the idle, when it doesnt just plain stall, seems rough, and possibly low. I have nothing to compare it with though. The power also seems to be ok but once i am at highway speed of 55-60, it seems to struggle, and accelerating past 65 makes it seem really unhappy. It seems like it loses revs quickly just before it should be idling, then it stalls.
 

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That could be a number of things, though a quick cheap attempt to fix would be running injector cleaner through the car. That could be a culprit, as could a fuel filter, but there are other more expensive things it could be as well.
 

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It could be the mass meter, but let's hope not. Try checking the fuse near the battery. Follow the skinny red wire from the battery and it should lead to a 25amp fuse near the battery on the d/s (close to the strut tower). The fuse is in a white case. Those cases usually retain moisture. Try to either clean up the connections in the case, or remove the case and plug the wires directly into the fuse, then tape it up. This could explain the stalling. <BR> If the fuse case looks okay, try checking the O2 sensor.<BR>-Paul
 

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thanks for the tip about the fuses, it seems simple enough a task for me to do. <P>However, I assume the mass meter and O2 sensor are the same thing? If so, how would I check them (I can usually follow instructions, but havent ever taken the time to actually learn all this stuff yet... im still young though) I can only assume that an O2 sensor would be a few hundred bucks, if the mass meter is different, what would that be?<P>If I cant by some miracle fix this this weekend, I'll have to bring it to my mechanic, because I need to drive to school in only about a week!<P>
 

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I own a 90 240 Dl with a B230E... I had what sounds like the same problem you have not too long ago. The problem was battery acid had gotten onto my mass airflow meter (don't ask how), and shorted it out, thus not sending any info to the computer. The best way I could test it was to start the car up and disconnect the wiring from the airflow meter to the computer. If the car's idling and running nature change, then it isn't the meter. But if it stays the same, which it did for mine, then the mass airflow meter will need to be replaced. It cost $450 for me.<P>To be perfectly specific, the symptoms I had were:<BR>•Stumbling idle, dies when cold, misfires when warm<BR>•Occassionally runs of three cylinders<BR>•Felt OK at about 45 mph, but an obvious lack of power and hesitation were present when the gas pedal was pressed<BR>•Smell of unburnt fuel igniting in the exhaust system was quite present in the cabin. (Not smoke, just stench)<P>If your problem does not lie within the airflow sensor, be sure to check your distributor cap and rotor for corrosion. Faulty plug wire(s) could be the culprit as well. If you have a Hanes manual, go thru the checks they have listed for this sort of problem.<P>Best of luck!
 

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i agree, a full check of ignition system would be a must, i think(havet don it)to check the o2 sensor you use a multi meter and check the resistance of the sensor.<BR>good luck.<P>michael.<P>
 

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thnkas much for all the help, unfortunately I am no mechanic, so I couldnt really do much myself. I brought it to the mechanic i bought if from, they are good, but expensive sometimes too. Unfortunately I need the car in a week to go to school, otherwise I would learn/try some of these suggestions myself<P>
 

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FYI:<P>You can check the mass meter by conecting a volt meter to the green wire that runs close to the wiper motor. There is a black boot over a connector on the green wire. Peel the boot back and hook up the meter. Then start up the car. After a few seconds/minutes the voltage should be fluxuating between ~0.1v and 0.8v. .1, .8, .1, .8, etc....<BR> This means the O2 sensor is good (it's telling the computer lean, rich, lean rich, etc. If the voltage doesnt move much (or stays at one reading), the o2 sensor is not working.<BR> The mass meter can be checked the way roadbeef said. Or by plugging in a good one (if you have access to parts).<BR> Good luck at school.<BR>Paul. (I'm leaving for school next week too, and I've been under the hood all week)
 

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well the trip to the mechanic payed off (first time i can say that honestly) , they changed my oil for free, and fixed the problem. They said the distributor cap was loose. Funny but I know i checked that/plug wires first time i got under the hood. I didnt notice a problem at all, but the car runs better now (118.5xx) than it did when I bought it in jan. (104,xxx), so I am incredibly happy. <P><BR>Now during the long school winter I gotta get a Bentley Manual (had one on order at amazon but they couldnt get one to me for months, so i cancelled). If I'm at school I can grab a multimeter from my buddy who is an EE. Problems like this wont be too hard to solve (as long as im looking at the right thing!)<P>
 
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