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240 Gauge Gremlins & Probs

891 Views 4 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  [email protected]
Okay, when we bought our 245, we did so with an inoperative temp gauge. I recently won a lot of 240 parts off of ebay and one of the items I won was a cluster from a manual tranny 240. I plugged it in on Saturday and that cluster's temp gauge worked, so I pulled the temp gauge and installed it in my cluster.

I plugged it back in and it didn't work again, so I think the problem is in my circuit board. I'm going to clean off the connectors on the cluster, but does anyone else have any other suggestions on this problem.

I did notice that the idiot light clsuter at the bottom has different lights, like one for 5th gear etc, so I will assume that I can't just use the new cluster with my old speedo/odo as I want to keep the mileage on the car accurate.
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The electronic speedo is specific to the wagon or sedan. The speedo marked "K10042" is from the sedan. You obviously have a wagon speedo to look at, but I think it's "K9800". The older mechanical speedos had numbers like "r,0960".

The gauge usually isn't a problem. The temp compensation board or a poor connection is much more likely. I bought a cluster on ebay with a bad speedo, but it only showed 75000 miles, so I'm going to swap the entire circuit board into my car. I'm hoping this will solve my dead tach and erratic temperature gauge.

temp compensating board

There is a way to bypass the temp comp board so that the gauge will fluctuate accurately with the change in water temp. With the comp board, there is a range of temperatures that the needle will just read as "normal" (9 o'clock position), but only if it goes above or below that range will the needle move.
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Thank you. I'll have to pull it again and do some cleaning. See if that clears it up.
I'm not sure what the electronic speedos are like, but adjusting the odometer on the mechanical ones is fairly easy.

The warning lights should be the same (functionally), you'd just have a green 'OD' light instead of the orange 'up arrow' (if the donor car was an M46.)
Well, thanks to a really cool used parts guy up at the Carlisle show, he showed me which board it was that was faulty.

When you open up the cluster, i.e. separating the back main board/gauges assembly from the balack plastic front half, you'll notice on the board/gauges assembly that there's a little green circuit board located below the temp and gas guages, sitting horizontally and accessed from the gauge side. That's what it was.

I had a spare cluster around whose temp gauge I knew worked, so I swapped them out and sure enough, it's fixed.
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