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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Belt Routing / Alternator Issue
Hi guys, new here & just bought my 2nd 240 after a 15 year break. My 1991 Volvo 240 (Base) w/B23F 4cyl engine (original). It had 2 new belts on it bypassing the shot A/C compressor so it's Alternator/Crankshaft/ Coolant Pump as it should be but then uses a 2nd belt to run the P/S pump off the outer crankshaft pulley groove. Ran fine & quiet when bought for a month or so. Just after a month, I noticed a squeaking for 3 days. Then battery got low on charge (& went dead). Then a screeching and smell of burning belts/starting problem. Tested & Charged battery, test good. Took off the alternator belt & she turned over just fine, no noise. Turned PS pump by hand, turned fine. Took alternator off & checked it at O'Reilly auto on the machine 3 times to be sure, tested fine & no noise. Soooo. Bought new Bushings (3) and have installed them. Bought new belts (They were cheap) in case the old were tensioned improperly & caused uneven wear? Maybe the improvised bypass caused this? Thoughts? (I do have a used compressor I plan to install eventually & use the correct belts if this is the case, but would rather not right now if you don't think the bypass routing may have been a cause etc.)

Alternator to Ground Wire Issue
2nd, upon re-installing the alternator, the blue/black wire (ground to block) seems to have been pulled out of the stock fitting/harness/part that secures it to the block (Looks like a black colored oil pressure sensor shaped thing made of rubber with the wire feeding into a hole in the back of it. the wire has pulled out) How do I get the wire reconnected properly? Any tips to get the block part off (Cant figure it out)? Any ides how the wire connects inside it (aka need a trip to pull a part to get a new one with attached wire or remove it & reconnect?

Torque Specs Question
Are there any torque specs for the alternator mounting bolt(s) or if not, tips as to how much to tighten them?

Thanks in Advance!
 

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Belt Routing / Alternator Issue
Hi guys, new here & just bought my 2nd 240 after a 15 year break. My 1991 Volvo 240 (Base) w/B23F 4cyl engine (original). It had 2 new belts on it bypassing the shot A/C compressor so it's Alternator/Crankshaft/ Coolant Pump as it should be but then uses a 2nd belt to run the P/S pump off the outer crankshaft pulley groove. Ran fine & quiet when bought for a month or so. Just after a month, I noticed a squeaking for 3 days. Then battery got low on charge (& went dead). Then a screeching and smell of burning belts/starting problem. Tested & Charged battery, test good. Took off the alternator belt & she turned over just fine, no noise. Turned PS pump by hand, turned fine. Took alternator off & checked it at O'Reilly auto on the machine 3 times to be sure, tested fine & no noise. Soooo. Bought new Bushings (3) and have installed them. Bought new belts (They were cheap) in case the old were tensioned improperly & caused uneven wear? Maybe the improvised bypass caused this? Thoughts? (I do have a used compressor I plan to install eventually & use the correct belts if this is the case, but would rather not right now if you don't think the bypass routing may have been a cause etc.)

Alternator to Ground Wire Issue
2nd, upon re-installing the alternator, the blue/black wire (ground to block) seems to have been pulled out of the stock fitting/harness/part that secures it to the block (Looks like a black colored oil pressure sensor shaped thing made of rubber with the wire feeding into a hole in the back of it. the wire has pulled out) How do I get the wire reconnected properly? Any tips to get the block part off (Cant figure it out)? Any ides how the wire connects inside it (aka need a trip to pull a part to get a new one with attached wire or remove it & reconnect?

Torque Specs Question
Are there any torque specs for the alternator mounting bolt(s) or if not, tips as to how much to tighten them?

Thanks in Advance!
Welcome to Swedespeed, Pete.

Congrats on your "new" Volvo.

Below are some links covering your 240 alternator situation (and much more).

If you are not already a Brickboard user this google link will introduce you to a vast Volvo-only knowledge base (forum) which has minimal scatter and maximal good input from the pros.

Enjoy.

George Dill

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&...=any&safe=images&tbs=&as_filetype=&as_rights=
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Not Starting Now...

Hey all. 1991 Volvo 240 Base Automatic w/ Original/B23F 4cyl Engine. It died on me 3 weeks ago. Battery was discharged but good and belts had been squeaking for a day or two. Got worse and just before dying due to the battery (lights went dim etc.) squealing. Checked belts & alternator seemed too lose. Tightened (over tightened??) and when tried to start, was turning over and about to catch but emitted a loud screeching, then a single backfire where I then cut it off & stopped trying immediately.

Took alternator belt off, all other pulleys ran fine, no noise when turned over for a few turns.Tested Alternator, tested good. Replaced new bushings, new belts and put good alternator back on. In doing so, inadvertently pull the what looks to be the oil pressure sensor wire from it by mistake. (Know I need to fix but figure one thing at a time & it shouldn't affect the alternator/screeching & now no start- is this correct??) Try to start & now turns over great-no screech, no backfire but it just keeps turning over without any sign of catching. At this point know it's not alternator/starter/battery. Before, fuel pump (in tank) was kaput but ran (hummingly) by Main pump (& was on my list to replace asap.) Replacing the in-tank later in week to eliminate it as the culprit but I don't think it is (as ran fine before whole situation). So....

If it is not the pump (both working eliminating fuel supply issue along with starter & charging issues) could the oil pressure wire being disconnected be a possible culprit? If not, where should I go from here? (Plugs are less than a month old, ran fine when changed) and Dist/Cap/Wires are relatively new & look to be in good shape. Possibly timing belt (the single backfire?) off or jumped tooth? If so, what would be a reasonable cost at a local shop to do this? Is it a possible DIY for a shade tree mech.? Thanks for the answers, I am just frustrated & stumped on this one. All advice welcome.

Pete
 

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What was the location of the screeching? For the timing belt, first remove the oil cap then turn the engine over and see if the cam turns. If it does, then remove the timing belt cover, rotate the engine by hand until you get to TDC on the #1 cylinder and check to see if the timing marks on the belt line up with the cam gear, crank gear and auxiliary drive gear (you'll need a good light to see them, especially the bottom gears). If the timing belt is broken or has skipped some teeth, check the tensioner to see if it has seized.
 

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Have you pulled codes by chance? Might lead you in the right direction. Assuming the cam belt didn't break, my money would be on the crank sensor BUT the ignition module or the fuse by the battery will also cause a no start. After attempting to start, you could pull plugs and see if they are wet. If so, fuel is not the issue.
 

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^ on the codes. There are several sets for both ignition and fuel systems, but if the 25 amp main fuse has blown, it may have cleared the codes as pulling the fuse does the same thing.
 

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Of course, if the 25 amp fuse has blown, that, in and of itself, will cause a no-start. When mine failed on my 89, the fuse holder was so corroded underneath that it disintegrated along with the base of the fuse. Replaced with a covered fuse holder and routed it away from the battery.
 

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Yeah, I did the same thing on my '88 and '89 244s for the same reason. I also moved it a bit more into the engine bay to get it away from rain and zip tied it ... TB style. ;)
 

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Oh yeah. :facepalm:
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Help! No Diagnostic Code on #2 & No Start?!!

Hi. 1991 240 Base w/B23F (Red) Engine. So what I thought to be an alternator issue was only a bad belt or bushings which is good but now...it wont start. First off, when trying to diagnose the squealing problem, I overtightened the belt (screeching for 2 seconds, a single backfire and I stopped). Checked, reinstalled w/new bushings & belts & fixed squealing issue. Now no start. It just turns over and over but doesn't even want to catch. Check fuel pumps, replace in tank pump (which has been out for a while). Both pumps working now but still no start. Clean fuse box & replace all fuses with new ones. Nope. Starter/Alt./Battery all tested fine & working. Plugs getting spark. Open oil cap/timing belt cover & belt is still on & turning freely. I go to check the OBD-1 Codes and #2 gives no code reading whatsoever- hold the button 1-3sec and just stays silent. #6 gives coolant temp sensor (which I also knew I had to replace for a while). What does it mean if I do not get any codes from #2? Where to go from here? Maybe jumped timing (but doesn't even cough or sputter at all?) ECM/CPU (the timing of this just "going" would be strange no?) Thanks...I am at loss.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Now it Keeps Running!! (and I'm About to firebomb it)

1991 Volvo 240 Base Model B230F "Red" Engine

Hi guys. Another day fighting with the Brick in my driveway. So it all began.....with the Alternator Belt Squeaking. Replaced alternator bushings & Belt, doing so I ripped out oil pressure sender wire. Spliced wire and reconnected it. No Start. No diagnostic signal in OBD Position 2 AT ALL (but port 6 working well- Pulled up temp sending unit code but I knew that from non working guage...on the list) I replaced ECM Brain Box / The Black Box near it and the fuel pump relay all with the same Numbers off a junkyard car. Yea! it starts & runs again! Go to turn it of and....wait for it....ready....IT WON'T TURN OFF NOW!!! Just keeps running like a champ with no key in the ignition AT ALL. So before I send a Molotov Cocktail through the drivers window, figured I would plead for advice...again. Thanks in advance...again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Okay guys, sorry for the hiatus but got to work on the Volvo (1991 240 B230 Automatic Base Model) today. I reattached the ground (blue wire) and it is now going from the stud on the alternator case to the bolt (engine block/ground/alternator bracket/bolt). In addition, added a second ground wire from the same stud to a bolt I put into one of the holes on the bottom half of the block (saw where guy didn't always trust his OE wire and added a backup ground in case this way).

So I try to start her up and she fires up pretty good (much better than before). Unfortunately shutting her off is still an issue- so since I 1) fixed the grounding wire issue and 2) replaced the ECM? "Silver Brainbox", I was tempted to think ignition switch. I noticed though that when I take the key out, it still runs even with fuse #6 fuel injection removed?!! Put the key back in to "on" position but then tried removing fuse first (while car running w/ key in "on" position) and then second turning key to off position and it shuts the car off as it should?? Kind of rules out the ignition switch (I think).

My thoughts now are along the lines of

A) maybe not having the alternator grounded porperly before burnt out something (alternator diodes / some relay / other) and is now a resulting issue causing the backfeed?

B) In this process I replaced the In tank pump (as it hasn't worked since purchase) and maybe it hasn't worked for a reason? Now I've replaced it & working it is causing a no shut off until pump fuse pulled, then key turned?

C) The silver "Brainbox" was damaged as a result of the grounding issue (Both #2 and #6 show codes properly though now I've changed it) also what about the smaller black box located towards the firewall near the Brainbox (what are the proper names for this and the silver one for future reference and what does each control?)

Oh and what was on the car when I bought it running good was a ###-###-561 Brainbox. It blew with the grounding issue I think. Pulled a working 561 (in there now) and also just found a 951 that I have in reserve.

Also pulled both "Black boxes" and fuel relays with each as well but have not replaced these yet. Also pulled an ignition switch Just in case.

Sorry for the novel but never can have enough info right? Thanks so much for your help and patience with a newbie but I am so close I can feel it....
 
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