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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
HELP!!!!! Has anyone been able to remove the 24mm fill bolt for a 2008 s40 2.5i, manual transmission. I’ve replaced the left and right cv axles, and now find I can’t find anything that is able to get around the damn bolt. The spanner is part number 9997301 and to spend $130ish for a tool I will only use once is maddening!!! Also if you can offer some advice on how to get an outer, passenger side tie rod end would be truly appreciated!! Somebody please respond last thing I have to do and I can start it driving again!!
Thanks,
Lorne
 

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Remove the front detent (one furthest forward, accessible under the front of the car) or the topmost one in the photo and you can fill it back up. Here's what they look like:
 

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If you want to go through the fill plug rather than the detent, you can disconnect the torque mount (bottom mount), shift the engine/tranny forward and wedge a board in to hold it forward. This should give clean access to the fill plug. I've done it several times.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Any chance you know how to remove a seized outer tie rod end??? Damn thing is seized and I can’t move it. Tried heat aka blow torch, several penetrating sprays and nothing
 

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Any chance you know how to remove a seized outer tie rod end??? Damn thing is seized and I can't move it. Tried heat aka blow torch, several penetrating sprays and nothing
When mine was seized, I had to replace the entire assembly. That means pulling the boot and undoing the inner and a big hammer to pop the outer off the socket after removing the nut, then an immediate alignment thereafter when replaced. I'm a fan of a 14" pipe wrench and a mini-sledge, but that's me...

After the alignment I anti-seized the crap out of everything to make sure it didn't get bad after that. Three years later it's still easily movable.
 

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Any chance you know how to remove a seized outer tie rod end??? Damn thing is seized and I can't move it. Tried heat aka blow torch, several penetrating sprays and nothing
I had the same issue. In my case the nut was stuck.

I cut it at an angle using a hack saw (damaged the tie rod end in the process). I didn't even have to cut it completely. Half way through it got loose and I was able to back it up and free the tie rod.

You will need a new nut which is not normally available in regular hardware stores. But every specialty shop carries them.
 

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Is it the lock nut that is stuck or the end itself? Let PB Blaster soak in for a few days. Heating with a torch often helps. If it is the lock nut, put a wrench on the end piece to stabilize (wedge against the ground) and a wrench on the nut. Use a large hammer to hit the wrench that is on the nut. If it is the end piece that is stuck, basically do the same but put a wrench on the flat of the shaft to stabilize, a wrench on the end piece and use the hammer to hit the wrench that is on the end piece.
 

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The shallow 24mm socket and extensions works but you may have to disconnect the torque mount (lower engine mount) and rotate the engine/transmission forward a little for clearance. I usually jam a wooden board to hold it forward.
 
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