I will be buying my warranty in the next 1 or 2 weeks. This is fantastic news. I'm so happy for you !
I will be buying my warranty in the next 1 or 2 weeks. This is fantastic news. I'm so happy for you !UPDATE:
I think just sharing and venting helped me deal with this whole process. I don't remember who (if anyone) actually recommended I buy the warranty, but I am sure glad I did right now.
Thanks! It is about as good as news can get when you're new-to-you car is burning as much oil as mine was.I will be buying my warranty in the next 1 or 2 weeks. This is fantastic news. I'm so happy for you !
No, it's not loaded. I had a loaded S90 loaner a month ago, so I know what you mean! This is a T6 with a couple more options than I am used to though, so I have enjoyed the past week and I will definitely enjoy it while my new engine is shipped and installed!Great news, congratulations! I hope the loaner S60 is the loaded one those are cool!
-For those with well functioning (So far) pistons S60s what are the precautions to avoid this piston rings saga?
-Is there a year, chassis or VIN range for the affected S60s?
-How much did you guys pay for an extended warranty? I checked multiple dealerships and the prices varied significantly.. since it can be purchased online I might just buy it online from the lowest bidder!
Is Volvo bringing in a tech to do the install or using an in house tech at the dealer? I'd hope Volvo brings in a very experienced individual. Dropping an engine, connecting everything, without breaking tons of clips takes experience.UPDATE:
Just heard from the dealer and they said the adjuster/inspector from the Volvo warranty company is saying that they are going to replace my engine with a new one. They didn't say anything about scoring on the cylinder walls, but did say that there was metal in the oil. It must be really bad considering the oil is only a few hundred miles old. I was so happy about what he was telling me that I didn't want to press him on the details of why it needs a new engine and not just new pistons/rings. According to the service manager, I am going to get a new engine in my car and I will just owe my $100 deductible. This is the best possible outcome I could hope for. I think I have to buy a lottery ticket on the way home. I also get to keep driving the 2019 S60 loaner until the work is done. This feels too good to be true, so I'm not sure I will celebrate until I actually have my car back, running fine, and only spent $100. When I eventually pick up the car, I will try to get the details on what exactly happened to my engine and then try to do a writeup of my full saga after that. Thanks again to all the folks on here who contributed their two cents good or bad. I think just sharing and venting helped me deal with this whole process. I don't remember who (if anyone) actually recommended I buy the warranty, but I am sure glad I did right now.
Takes a trained mechanic and I expect every dealership has at least 1.Is Volvo bringing in a tech to do the install or using an in house tech at the dealer? I'd hope Volvo brings in a very experienced individual. Dropping an engine, connecting everything, without breaking tons of clips takes experience.
Where do you come up with this stuff?Is Volvo bringing in a tech to do the install or using an in house tech at the dealer? I'd hope Volvo brings in a very experienced individual. Dropping an engine, connecting everything, without breaking tons of clips takes experience.UPDATE:
Just heard from the dealer and they said the adjuster/inspector from the Volvo warranty company is saying that they are going to replace my engine with a new one. They didn't say anything about scoring on the cylinder walls, but did say that there was metal in the oil. It must be really bad considering the oil is only a few hundred miles old. I was so happy about what he was telling me that I didn't want to press him on the details of why it needs a new engine and not just new pistons/rings. According to the service manager, I am going to get a new engine in my car and I will just owe my $100 deductible. This is the best possible outcome I could hope for. I think I have to buy a lottery ticket on the way home. I also get to keep driving the 2019 S60 loaner until the work is done. This feels too good to be true, so I'm not sure I will celebrate until I actually have my car back, running fine, and only spent $100. When I eventually pick up the car, I will try to get the details on what exactly happened to my engine and then try to do a writeup of my full saga after that. Thanks again to all the folks on here who contributed their two cents good or bad. I think just sharing and venting helped me deal with this whole process. I don't remember who (if anyone) actually recommended I buy the warranty, but I am sure glad I did right now.
Gunshow indicated, and I can't verify other than what he stated, that the oil burning issues in Drive E's are related to piston rings. And that people aren't driving their vehicles hard enough to heat up the rings to create the proper seal. Thereby, leading to failures at or before 50KThank you for the details! now I will check on where I can find the engine serial number?!
-Yes on that oil after my extended research posted on my thread (Best oil for S60).. in short.. VCNA emailed me back that Volvo's 0w20 is the oil for the car (Drive-E) but we don't have it available in America so 5w30 is a good alternative. I already ordered 0w20 Liqui Moly 20200 but haven't changed the oil yet. (Good thing I noticed the packaging says oil designed for Start\Stop Engines).
-The problem with my extended warranty is that I have a reconstructed title and I'm afraid they'd use that card to deny service.. after I purchase and pay all that money.
Hi volvjoe,The problem with my extended warranty is that I have a reconstructed title and I'm afraid they'd use that card to deny service.. after I purchase and pay all that money.
Does each Volvo dealer have a Master Mechanic? I guess if that's the case, I am wrong. Thought I read on an earlier thread where Volvo brought in outside help at times to diagnose issues that cannot be solved.Where do you come up with this stuff?
It's a dealership. That's where techs work. They don't bring in other techs.
Engine serial number is under the engine cover on a sticker along with the engine model.Thank you for the details! now I will check on where I can find the engine serial number?!
-Yes for that oil!!.. after my extended research posted on my thread (Best oil for S60).. in short.. VCNA emailed me back that Volvo's 0w20 is the oil for the car (Drive-E) but we don't have it available in America so 5w30 is a good alternative. I already ordered 0w20 Liqui Moly 20200 but haven't changed the oil yet. (Good thing I noticed the packaging says oil designed for Start\Stop Engines).
-The problem with my extended warranty is that I have a reconstructed title and I'm afraid they'd use that card to deny service.. after I purchase and pay all that money.
Yes, we have training standards.Does each Volvo dealer have a Master Mechanic? I guess if that's the case, I am wrong. Thought I read on an earlier thread where Volvo brought in outside help at times to diagnose issues that cannot be solved.Where do you come up with this stuff?
It's a dealership. That's where techs work. They don't bring in other techs.
Interesting, I have a 2017 Ford Escape. It's a turbo and there are issues w/ the valves that they tend to get dirty, even using top tier gas. The going thought on there was that it needed to be driven hard every so often so that some of that got burned off Now I hear that this vehicle can needs to be driven hard enough sometimes. As someone who often drives easy to maximize MPG, makes me wonder if I should throw that out the window. And also if I should down shift and run it at high RPMs up the 2 or 3 mile stretch up the mountain (hill by some parts of the country's standards) once in awhile.Gunshow indicated, and I can't verify other than what he stated, that the oil burning issues in Drive E's are related to piston rings. And that people aren't driving their vehicles hard enough to heat up the rings to create the proper seal. Thereby, leading to failures at or before 50K
I'm guessing that your engine is direct-injected. Intake valve deposits are common with these types of engines because there is no fuel in the intake air charge to wash the valve stems clean. If it gets bad enough, you'll get a misfire code and have to take it to the dealer to get the valves cleaned. Not the end of the world.Interesting, I have a 2017 Ford Escape. It's a turbo and there are issues w/ the valves that they tend to get dirty, even using top tier gas. The going thought on there was that it needed to be driven hard every so often so that some of that got burned off Now I hear that this vehicle can needs to be driven hard enough sometimes. As someone who often drives easy to maximize MPG, makes me wonder if I should throw that out the window. And also if I should down shift and run it at high RPMs up the 2 or 3 mile stretch up the mountain (hill by some parts of the country's standards) once in awhile.
My wife thinks I'm just looking for excuses for driving this car in the safe yet fun manner it seems designed forso cutting it short for the average users.. do we need to drive those Drive-E S60s engines harder better for the pistons or easy so we don't damage the pistons rings?
I doubt that driving it one way or another would have any significant effect. Maybe that's bad news from your perspectiveso cutting it short for the average users.. do we need to drive those Drive-E S60s engines harder better for the pistons or easy so we don't damage the pistons rings?artywave:
Punching it every now and again on the highway (while merging or passing) probably isn't a bad thing. Supposedly seals need heated up to create a proper seal. So tip toe driving is apparently not always recommended. At least according to gunshow.Interesting, I have a 2017 Ford Escape. It's a turbo and there are issues w/ the valves that they tend to get dirty, even using top tier gas. The going thought on there was that it needed to be driven hard every so often so that some of that got burned off Now I hear that this vehicle can needs to be driven hard enough sometimes. As someone who often drives easy to maximize MPG, makes me wonder if I should throw that out the window. And also if I should down shift and run it at high RPMs up the 2 or 3 mile stretch up the mountain (hill by some parts of the country's standards) once in awhile.
Tell your wife to let loose and feel the RPMS! It's like having a dog, only sticking he/she in the backyard, and never taking for a walk. Sure, the dog gets exercise, but never really gets to have fun by smelling the surroundings. Your Volvo needs to be let out into the wild every now and again.My wife thinks I'm just looking for excuses for driving this car in the safe yet fun manner it seems designed for![]()