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2015 V60 Drive-E with bad pistons/rings

20532 Views 141 Replies 25 Participants Last post by  MyVolvoS60
It's official. You can add our V60 to the is list. After a hand full of visits to our local dealer, some failed attempts at fixes (second round of new plugs in less than a year, combustion chamber clean, new breather box), and an oil consumption test resulting in over a 1qt loss in in under 500 miles, the service techs and Volvo are recommending replacing the pistons. Unfortunately for me, we are out of warranty at 60k+. We are waiting to hear back this week if Volvo is going to help out with some good will, fingers crossed.

I'm mostly frustrated that I didn't come across this forum a year earlier when we first really started to notice the oil consumption between our 40k service and the first time we brought it in due to a cylinder misfire at 55k, at our neighborhood shop.

To date we have not personally spoken to VCNA. The dealer service has been pretty good, assuming they are actually honest people and you can believe what they are saying to you. They have been communicating with Volvo all along so I have not seen the need to go that rout. The question is whether or not talking to VCNA directly, before even having an answer, is a good idea?
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UPDATE:
I think just sharing and venting helped me deal with this whole process. I don't remember who (if anyone) actually recommended I buy the warranty, but I am sure glad I did right now.
I will be buying my warranty in the next 1 or 2 weeks. This is fantastic news. I'm so happy for you !
Great news, congratulations! I hope the loaner S60 is the loaded one those are cool!


-For those with well functioning (So far) pistons S60s what are the precautions to avoid this piston rings saga?

-Is there a year, chassis or VIN range for the affected S60s?

-How much did you guys pay for an extended warranty? I checked multiple dealerships and the prices varied significantly.. since it can be purchased online I might just buy it online from the lowest bidder!
I will be buying my warranty in the next 1 or 2 weeks. This is fantastic news. I'm so happy for you !
Thanks! It is about as good as news can get when you're new-to-you car is burning as much oil as mine was.

Great news, congratulations! I hope the loaner S60 is the loaded one those are cool!

-For those with well functioning (So far) pistons S60s what are the precautions to avoid this piston rings saga?

-Is there a year, chassis or VIN range for the affected S60s?

-How much did you guys pay for an extended warranty? I checked multiple dealerships and the prices varied significantly.. since it can be purchased online I might just buy it online from the lowest bidder!
No, it's not loaded. I had a loaded S90 loaner a month ago, so I know what you mean! This is a T6 with a couple more options than I am used to though, so I have enjoyed the past week and I will definitely enjoy it while my new engine is shipped and installed!

There are no known precautions that will guarantee that your car will not have oil consumption issues. Volvo has essentially acknowledged that the early drive-e engines piston rings were designed poorly enough that they stopped using them. At this point, we don't know enough, so it's just luck of the draw. If I was gifted one of these cars new and knew this was a possibility, I would probably use the 0W-20 Liqui Moly oil and change it every 5,000-6,000 miles. https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/special-tec-v-sae-0w-20-5liter-liqui-moly-lm20200

Affected vehicles are 2015 and 2016s with B4204T11 engines with serial numbers under 1501327. http://australiancar.reviews/_pdfs/Volvo_B4204T11-B4204T12_oil-consumption_TJ-31216_201604.pdf

I paid $1,750 to Steingold for a 2 year 24k mile powertrain warranty with a $100 deductible. At the time, my car had 77k miles on it and had been in service for 3.5 years.
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UPDATE:

Just heard from the dealer and they said the adjuster/inspector from the Volvo warranty company is saying that they are going to replace my engine with a new one. They didn't say anything about scoring on the cylinder walls, but did say that there was metal in the oil. It must be really bad considering the oil is only a few hundred miles old. I was so happy about what he was telling me that I didn't want to press him on the details of why it needs a new engine and not just new pistons/rings. According to the service manager, I am going to get a new engine in my car and I will just owe my $100 deductible. This is the best possible outcome I could hope for. I think I have to buy a lottery ticket on the way home. I also get to keep driving the 2019 S60 loaner until the work is done. This feels too good to be true, so I'm not sure I will celebrate until I actually have my car back, running fine, and only spent $100. When I eventually pick up the car, I will try to get the details on what exactly happened to my engine and then try to do a writeup of my full saga after that. Thanks again to all the folks on here who contributed their two cents good or bad. I think just sharing and venting helped me deal with this whole process. I don't remember who (if anyone) actually recommended I buy the warranty, but I am sure glad I did right now.
Is Volvo bringing in a tech to do the install or using an in house tech at the dealer? I'd hope Volvo brings in a very experienced individual. Dropping an engine, connecting everything, without breaking tons of clips takes experience.
Is Volvo bringing in a tech to do the install or using an in house tech at the dealer? I'd hope Volvo brings in a very experienced individual. Dropping an engine, connecting everything, without breaking tons of clips takes experience.
Takes a trained mechanic and I expect every dealership has at least 1.
UPDATE:

Just heard from the dealer and they said the adjuster/inspector from the Volvo warranty company is saying that they are going to replace my engine with a new one. They didn't say anything about scoring on the cylinder walls, but did say that there was metal in the oil. It must be really bad considering the oil is only a few hundred miles old. I was so happy about what he was telling me that I didn't want to press him on the details of why it needs a new engine and not just new pistons/rings. According to the service manager, I am going to get a new engine in my car and I will just owe my $100 deductible. This is the best possible outcome I could hope for. I think I have to buy a lottery ticket on the way home. I also get to keep driving the 2019 S60 loaner until the work is done. This feels too good to be true, so I'm not sure I will celebrate until I actually have my car back, running fine, and only spent $100. When I eventually pick up the car, I will try to get the details on what exactly happened to my engine and then try to do a writeup of my full saga after that. Thanks again to all the folks on here who contributed their two cents good or bad. I think just sharing and venting helped me deal with this whole process. I don't remember who (if anyone) actually recommended I buy the warranty, but I am sure glad I did right now.
Is Volvo bringing in a tech to do the install or using an in house tech at the dealer? I'd hope Volvo brings in a very experienced individual. Dropping an engine, connecting everything, without breaking tons of clips takes experience.
Where do you come up with this stuff?

It's a dealership. That's where techs work. They don't bring in other techs.
Thank you for the details! now I will check on where I can find the engine serial number?!

-Yes for that oil!!.. after my extended research posted on my thread (Best oil for S60).. in short.. VCNA emailed me back that Volvo's 0w20 is the oil for the car (Drive-E) but we don't have it available in America so 5w30 is a good alternative. I already ordered 0w20 Liqui Moly 20200 but haven't changed the oil yet. (Good thing I noticed the packaging says oil designed for Start\Stop Engines).

-The problem with my extended warranty is that I have a reconstructed title and I'm afraid they'd use that card to deny service.. after I purchase and pay all that money.
Thank you for the details! now I will check on where I can find the engine serial number?!

-Yes on that oil after my extended research posted on my thread (Best oil for S60).. in short.. VCNA emailed me back that Volvo's 0w20 is the oil for the car (Drive-E) but we don't have it available in America so 5w30 is a good alternative. I already ordered 0w20 Liqui Moly 20200 but haven't changed the oil yet. (Good thing I noticed the packaging says oil designed for Start\Stop Engines).

-The problem with my extended warranty is that I have a reconstructed title and I'm afraid they'd use that card to deny service.. after I purchase and pay all that money.
Gunshow indicated, and I can't verify other than what he stated, that the oil burning issues in Drive E's are related to piston rings. And that people aren't driving their vehicles hard enough to heat up the rings to create the proper seal. Thereby, leading to failures at or before 50K

He later indicated oil plays a factor, too. 5W 30 Penzoil is what my dealer uses.
The problem with my extended warranty is that I have a reconstructed title and I'm afraid they'd use that card to deny service.. after I purchase and pay all that money.
Hi volvjoe,

What if you sent an email to the agent you dealt with at the warranty company and get it in writing that they wont bail on you or deny service if it's required? If they're not willing it put it in writing, you may want to reconsider the policy with them and find someone else.
Where do you come up with this stuff?

It's a dealership. That's where techs work. They don't bring in other techs.
Does each Volvo dealer have a Master Mechanic? I guess if that's the case, I am wrong. Thought I read on an earlier thread where Volvo brought in outside help at times to diagnose issues that cannot be solved.
Thank you for the details! now I will check on where I can find the engine serial number?!

-Yes for that oil!!.. after my extended research posted on my thread (Best oil for S60).. in short.. VCNA emailed me back that Volvo's 0w20 is the oil for the car (Drive-E) but we don't have it available in America so 5w30 is a good alternative. I already ordered 0w20 Liqui Moly 20200 but haven't changed the oil yet. (Good thing I noticed the packaging says oil designed for Start\Stop Engines).

-The problem with my extended warranty is that I have a reconstructed title and I'm afraid they'd use that card to deny service.. after I purchase and pay all that money.
Engine serial number is under the engine cover on a sticker along with the engine model.
Where do you come up with this stuff?

It's a dealership. That's where techs work. They don't bring in other techs.
Does each Volvo dealer have a Master Mechanic? I guess if that's the case, I am wrong. Thought I read on an earlier thread where Volvo brought in outside help at times to diagnose issues that cannot be solved.
Yes, we have training standards.

Of all technicians at a Volvo dealership, at least 70% must be Quality level or above (including Certified/Master/Expert). 50% must be Certified level or above (includes Master and Expert). 20% must be Master level or above.

If a case is escalated to an FTS, they may come out to help with diagnosis. If a car is at this point, it isn't likely being worked on by anyone under Master.
Gunshow indicated, and I can't verify other than what he stated, that the oil burning issues in Drive E's are related to piston rings. And that people aren't driving their vehicles hard enough to heat up the rings to create the proper seal. Thereby, leading to failures at or before 50K
Interesting, I have a 2017 Ford Escape. It's a turbo and there are issues w/ the valves that they tend to get dirty, even using top tier gas. The going thought on there was that it needed to be driven hard every so often so that some of that got burned off Now I hear that this vehicle can needs to be driven hard enough sometimes. As someone who often drives easy to maximize MPG, makes me wonder if I should throw that out the window. And also if I should down shift and run it at high RPMs up the 2 or 3 mile stretch up the mountain (hill by some parts of the country's standards) once in awhile.
Interesting, I have a 2017 Ford Escape. It's a turbo and there are issues w/ the valves that they tend to get dirty, even using top tier gas. The going thought on there was that it needed to be driven hard every so often so that some of that got burned off Now I hear that this vehicle can needs to be driven hard enough sometimes. As someone who often drives easy to maximize MPG, makes me wonder if I should throw that out the window. And also if I should down shift and run it at high RPMs up the 2 or 3 mile stretch up the mountain (hill by some parts of the country's standards) once in awhile.
I'm guessing that your engine is direct-injected. Intake valve deposits are common with these types of engines because there is no fuel in the intake air charge to wash the valve stems clean. If it gets bad enough, you'll get a misfire code and have to take it to the dealer to get the valves cleaned. Not the end of the world.
so cutting it short for the average users.. do we need to drive those Drive-E S60s engines harder better for the pistons or easy so we don't damage the pistons rings?:partywave:
so cutting it short for the average users.. do we need to drive those Drive-E S60s engines harder better for the pistons or easy so we don't damage the pistons rings?
My wife thinks I'm just looking for excuses for driving this car in the safe yet fun manner it seems designed for ;)
so cutting it short for the average users.. do we need to drive those Drive-E S60s engines harder better for the pistons or easy so we don't damage the pistons rings?:partywave:
I doubt that driving it one way or another would have any significant effect. Maybe that's bad news from your perspective :)
Interesting, I have a 2017 Ford Escape. It's a turbo and there are issues w/ the valves that they tend to get dirty, even using top tier gas. The going thought on there was that it needed to be driven hard every so often so that some of that got burned off Now I hear that this vehicle can needs to be driven hard enough sometimes. As someone who often drives easy to maximize MPG, makes me wonder if I should throw that out the window. And also if I should down shift and run it at high RPMs up the 2 or 3 mile stretch up the mountain (hill by some parts of the country's standards) once in awhile.
Punching it every now and again on the highway (while merging or passing) probably isn't a bad thing. Supposedly seals need heated up to create a proper seal. So tip toe driving is apparently not always recommended. At least according to gunshow.
My wife thinks I'm just looking for excuses for driving this car in the safe yet fun manner it seems designed for ;)
Tell your wife to let loose and feel the RPMS! It's like having a dog, only sticking he/she in the backyard, and never taking for a walk. Sure, the dog gets exercise, but never really gets to have fun by smelling the surroundings. Your Volvo needs to be let out into the wild every now and again.
Funny thing is I'm usually the one that drives more for MPG. I coast early then brake early, accelerate evenly. She is heavy accelerate, brake heard. Coast? LOL One trip to Colombia with her taught me all I needed to know why she drives the ways she does. But i love dropping this down to sport mode and driving some RPMs lol This thing corners like a dream, accelerates quickly when I want it to. Outright FUN !
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