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2015.5 s60 T5 clicking/ticking noise when accelerating

144183 Views 582 Replies 117 Participants Last post by  klr142
Has anyone experience this issue? I have a 2015.5 S60 T5, when accelerating, I get this ticking/clicking noise for about a second or so. And it feels like its losing power. Usually occurs between 3k to 4K rpm. I feel like I don't get that quick torch. Any idea?
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Can you paint a more detailed picture, something like " after i start car, drive for a few minutes, get on a highway, and the noise/hesitation occurs everytime you stomp it ....."?
wonder if the turbo is trying to come online? might have to take it to dealer to have it checked.
Please report back, and Welcome to the forum!

Another good place to check for issues or interesting topics is the XC60 forum as many of us over there have the same configs as the S/V 60.
try this experiment : drive in sport mode. Guess that will only isolate... , but at least if you see it during manual shift, you'll know.... I'm spitballing here.... You'll have a data point!
This has been happening to mine for a year and it's been to the dealer a few times with no resolution. I've been clear with my dealer that the sounds is NOT a ping, but a definite clicking sound. It does seem to be better with higher octane, but it does not completely eliminate the issue. I'd like to give non-ethanol gas a try but I have to go way out of my way to find it. It also seems to happen more frequently in ECO+.
If you can repeat this reliably, try doing it in eco, normal, and sport. Try to detect :

1) a change in frequency, maybe occurs less in sport, more in eco, etc.
2) a change in input conditions. For example, maybe in sport mode it doesn't happen until 4k rpms vs. 3k in normal and 2k in eco, etc.
Polestar?

One more question :

Does anyone with the problem have Polestar tuning?

Just curious. Maybe that will fix it!
finally some real data!

Your description describes a process-by-design, but that means you would have seen this from day 1. Wondering why this behavior isn't exposing itself until avg of 10k miles.
nothing but a data point but I'll throw it out there.

I'm at 9200 miles and run nothing but 93 octane (only two tanks of 87 a long time ago) and I've never had this problem.

We used to run in eco mode but not sure it really saved any fuel, so we run in normal mode and are not shy to give it a drink of gas. We have many hills in our area and knowing about this thread I routinely take those opportunities to steadily push the pedal to the floor BUT not flooring it. I take about two seconds for the pedal to hit the floor. No clicking or decrease in power yet.

Now that I've said that I'll probably start experiencing it tomorrow.
we spend a lot of money on these cars so why cheap out on the gas.
Might be Auto Start / Stop. When it switches over the car idles on electric and when accelerating the gas engine restarts. Sometimes bit jerky.
Sorry that doesn't make any sense. start/stop will only come on when under 5 mph in eco mode only, otherwise it engages when at 0 mph.
All, first, thank you for this discussion. It has been very informative.

You can add me to the list of those experiencing the click/tick. I just bought this car used with 11,000 miles on it. My story is I get the sound, never more than three clicks, when I accelerate heavily from a modest speed. If I stomp it at a light, it does not happen, but if I push it down somewhat hard, but not all the way, whilst already cruising, then I might get it. I put 87 in it on my first two fill ups and for my third I put in 93, or 92, whatever premium grade was available. I am still getting the sound but far less now - I went days without it whereas before it happened daily at least once. Sometimes there is appreciable power loss, sometimes not. I live in Florida and it has been hotter than Hades. It always sounds like it is coming from the passenger side of the vehicle, not varying locations as some have stated.

I actually came across this thread prior to making the purchase, but I gave only a cursory examination and concluded it was the gas and moved on. I should have read the whole thing, but considering it took me about an hour to get through all the posts, I can see why I didn't. Had I seen a bunch of posts about this, that would have raised a red flag, but this is the only one I found across multiple forums.

I might have missed it, but no one seems to be posting what specific engine they have and there are several options. Mine is the 242hp I4 T5 with the 8-speed tranny. It is the V60 wagon, 2016. When I do a VIN lookup on Volvo's page, it does not give an engine code, however, it says the car came with the 242 HP engine. There is a chart on Wikipedia and assuming it is accurate, based on the process of elimination, I am reasonably certain my engine code is B4204T41. Is there a way to verify this? And is everyone with this problem having it with this same engine, or is it across the different codes? I imagine that would be helpful info for us and Volvo.

I read the Cline article, and I did note that he states that a detonation ping makes a sound at 6400 Hz and that is the sound that the detection devices engines use to detect pings hones in on. It seems hard to believe that it is the same sound for all engines, but that is what he implies. Assuming this is accurate information vis-a-vis our specific issue, then it stands to reason that we are NOT hearing detonation, as the very-specific sound would presumably be detected and trip a code, right? Does anyone know what is supposed to happen, code-wise, if and when the engine DOES detect a ping?

So, a few questions and some food for thought. The last Volvo I had was a 99 S80, which was absolutely the most buggy, unreliable car I have ever owned, by a long shot. I am hoping to not have that same experience, so I am a bit nervous. I did like the S80 ride and when my wife and I drove this car we fell in love at once. The Volvo is a comfortable car with a great ride. I hope I haven't made the same mistake twice!
You're correct, the problem is in the Drive-E 4 cyl engine, although I can't remember if its just T5 (240 HP, turbo only) or the T6 (302 HP, turbo and supercharger) as well. (Just saw there's one report of T6)

I agree on your call for clarity. Engine codes would be extremely helpful. The more information the better such as build dates, type of vehicle, fuel, etc.

This is the same engine (perhaps some periphery/software changes?) as the new SPA platform XC90 and we've NOT seen similar complaints from those folks. That to me it the most interesting aspect.
thanks for the update!
I agree with you, disappointing, especially since you're not the first person to report this problem and have work done to solve it.

Something to consider, (probably mentioned this before) new XC90 owners aren't reporting this. I don't know what's changed in the engine, but they're not seeing the problem.

Given the lack of problems in XC90, volvo will see this as a fleeting issue and wave it off.
Some good news: I tried out Torque data logging today and it worked perfectly. For reference I'm using this inexpensive OBDII adapter in combination with my HTC M7.

Some good news that isn't remotely helpful: Once I got everything set up I went for a joyride but I couldn't induce an "event." And I really tried. I mean, I flogged it as I assume I would a stolen Yaris yet the thing ran like the 4-cylinder equivalent of a sewing machine. I even found an up-hill on-ramp that allowed a strong WOT run from a nearly standing start. TBH it was the most fun I've had in this car to date but not terribly relevant to the problem at hand. I did at one point manage a couple of very faint ticks by stomping on it from a moderate roll, which is usually what does it, but it didn't lose power as far as I could tell. If the radio had been on at low volume I probably wouldn't have noticed at all. Nothing sticks out in the logs, either. I'll keep logging as I drive normally until something happens.
Perhaps you found a cure, just keep the logger connected and you'll never see the problem again.

That's how you have to treat these cars, hook up some monitoring equipment and they'll never misbehave again.
What would be the result of an anti-knock system fault? Would that produce the reported results?

All of the posts so far keep indicating the anti-knock system will compensate, but what would happen if it doesn't/can't?
People often mention they have the problem in sport mode, but I don't recall they manually shifted.

A good experiment for them to try.
Was perusing those forums today and saw that someone started a thread claiming "loss of power under heavy acceleration"... we'll see where that goes. Think it was the T6 engine.
Nice catch!

the XC90 thread
FWIW, I had the 10k service done at about 7k because the oil was one year old.

I've had no problems afterward. I don't have a lead foot but i don't put my car in ECO either.

Every now and again I'll open it up on an incline to see if I have the problem, which thankfully I don't, just turned 12k the other day.

Note, we don't drive much either. We've had the car (full time) since June 2015 and put on 11.4k miles. Also, my dealership doesn't seem to do any software updates unless a problem is involved, because I'm sure there are software updates available but my invoices never show software updates, and I assume they would list that as a line item as part of the service.
From what i was told about the breather box is that it was allowing too much oil to pass into the intake and the oil was getting inside the combustion chamber and it may cause reduced life/performance of the spark plugs.
For an issue like this (not just that breather box), do you know if corporate has determined if a bad batch of parts (any part) made its way into production?

Anecdotally from this forum, this problem is in a subset of owners. I don't have this problem, doesn't mean I wont, but based on mileage, we definitely see inconsistencies. Bad parts answers this riddle nicely.
Haven't read this whole thread, but was VERY surprised to see a newer (2012+) s60 pull away on a local street and hearing it knocking/pinging. Is this normal? What to check on if I am looking at one in the future? I've never driven one, but was looking at the T6 s60 hard when I wanted a vR and was having trouble finding a decent one nearby. Now that I have one, I'm not in the market, but can see this as a possibility coming in the next few years to replace the current s60. If so, I'd probably look for a decent t5.
This thread is specifc to the Drive-E engine.

I suspect by the time you're looking at a new car, this issue will (hopefully) be addressed.
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