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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey everyone, I just did a swap of the analog DIM cluster from my 2012 S60 to a newer style TFT DIM from the 2014+ S60 models.

There's a good amount of information on this installation already, so I'll preface this thread with a link to the long running thread discussion.

https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?197030-2014-TFT-Gauge-Cluster-DIM-Retrofit

There had been talk here and there that I had found in the past on getting everything but the Power/Eco gauges to work, but I could never find the correct procedure for that, just talk of some wiring with no specifics.

Thankfully, a few weeks ago, that final piece was relayed to me by Pietila (thanks my friend!). I put this post together to serve as a somewhat condensed DIY of sorts, in hopes of consolidating that information in one thread so that others can more easily find it.

December 2018 Update:

After a year, both XeMODeX and Vesper Volvo have not delivered on a retrofit solution, but VDASH has apparently figured much of it out for CEM unlocking and software upgrades. The pertinent post is quoted below. This involves using VDASH to unlock the CEM (through brute force method), enabling you to configure the TFT display for those who have difficulty with the retrofit, or who want to enable new options/colors/etc.

Hi guys:

we can talk directly now :) Here's Pavel - from D5T5.com team (formerly VolvoCesky.cz) and we run VDASH suite. Beside many other things, we've been frequently asked to check if/how the TFT retrofit could be done. The answer is twofold, actually threefold - yes-maybe-no:

#1 retrofitting the TFT displays into MY14- cars (that have the "analogue" (cheapo) DIM with a single monochrome display in the center) is pretty much straightforward - the wires are all there, VIDA/VDASH will see it as well. It only needs a properly configured DIM software and certain settings in the CEM (*). This kind of upgrade can also be done at a dealer, bit it's a bit co$tly.

#2 the cars MY12- (and certain S60II/V60 MY11-) will accept the TFT DIM, again with the correctly configured SW and certain CEM settings changed too. Without these, most of you will see some "random" errors, TPMS faults, fuel indicator not working, completely dark DIM or the rest of the car completely confused. A pair of additional wires between OBD and DIM connector is required to see the gear selector position properly (**). Certain ECM firmwares also provide Eco/Power indicator values, but the majority (***) don't.
This is what the some of our competition achieved as well. Some of them just randomly tested and failed various units until a software match was found.

#3 The biggest challenge was to retrofit the TFT display into all older P3 (S80II, V70III, XC70III and older XC60 - pretty much all MY07-MY11 P3 cars) without any converter hardware, just using a software configuration (and the pair of wires, of course). It was a huge work, lot of development and testing, but Yes! we can do it.
The final testing is in progress. Next week few local guys will do the pre-final tests on their cars. Here's the teaser - this is my lovely S80 V8 MY07 car:







We do plan to roll out the VDASH 2.0 extension that will enable to do the full conversion (not exactly sure if within two weeks as our marketing promises, the development is always behind).

Technically you will only need any type of TFT DIM (there're two distinct HW versions) - both usable for any #1 #2 or #3 retrofit. Plus the AT or MT type of the DIM has to be matched with the car, that's it. Well, of course V40/XC40 DIM type will not match the car mechanically, while electrically it would be pretty much okay. A pair of additional pins and wires. And a pair of good hands.

That's for now. Hope you enjoyed the reading and soon you may enjoy the actual conversion. It will be available worldwide and online thru VDASH 2.0

Pavel (ok2ucx)
D5T5.com team

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(*) In order to change anything in CEM, it needs to be unlocked first. It's a one-time process that can be accomplished using VDASH. It takes 12 hours in average, 24 hours the worst case. Both car and the PC has to be powered using chargers, the car consumes 15-20A, thus cheap Lidl charger cannot handle that job. You can pause the decoding at any time though, the decoding (unlocking) will resume from the last known point. The PC has to be on-line all the time, however it will not eat too much bandwidth (a 3G mobile connection is more than good enough).

(**) Official VIDA will never see DIM responding properly as it can only be diagnosed on HS CAN (and VIDA expects such retrofitted cars to have DIM on the original LS CAN connection).
The cars that will be converted thru VDASH will be put on an automatic white-list and VDASH will be able to 1. diagnose DIM (read/clear the DTC codes), 2. clear SRI, 3. set time thru OBD, well 4. to reprogram/update it too thru VDASH.

(***) In both #2 and #3 options the Eco/Power indicators may be mapped to a similar values in the car, with not exactly the original meaning, still meaningful. It might be reconfigured later, if the better values are found.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
First thing you need is the actual cluster (duh).

Thankfully, there are many around now, as they've been in cars for the past few years and many are showing up in auto recycle and U-pull-it locations.

The one I found was out of a 2015 S60. The spare part number is 36010100.

However, you can find it also listed as other part numbers that are more specific to certain models. Mine was listed with the 2015 S60 part number, 31453038.



I had good success with those part numbers, and also by looking up "Virtual Display Volvo" in eBay.

They'll pop up regularly so look for a good deal. You can score ones for pretty unbelievable prices, and you can also get fleeced, too. I got mine for $120 shipped from a reseller in California. As you can see it looked pretty new.



Onto the install...
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
For the removal and installation of the DIM, I basically did these same steps as this poster on Youtube:


Pull the tray directly underneath the DIM straight at you from the DIM until the two clips underneath pop out of their sockets.



You can see the clips here below:



Once you do that, pop the top cover off the steering column. I found it easy to use a bone tool to put the cover apart at the front. You'll need to turn the wheel to each side to pop the clip out from the left and right of the cover.



With that loosened, you can pull the cover under the DIM forward to access the mounting screws. They are Torx 25 (as with everything else in this car).



The other two screws are on the top front of the DIM. Once you get those out, you can pull the DIM forward and unplug the connector.

At this point, I wanted to make sure that the DIM I bought worked, as I've heard of people getting nothing or blue/black error screens when connecting their DIM.

It fired up easy, with no issues, so I went ahead and removed it again to finish the wiring portion.

 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
At this point comes the missing part about the wiring that enables the fuel consumption readouts and the gear position. There are two new wires in the 2014+ models on the DIM connector that aren't there on the older model. Again, thanks to Pietila for this information.



Both of the two new pins (# 7 and 8) are for the high and low speed CAN bus, respectively.

To get these features to work, you have to source that signal from another location to add to your DIM connector. Thankfully, the OBD2 can be tapped to get that information. If you look at the OBD2 specification, you can get the high and low CAN input from wires # 6 (high) and # 14 (low).



To get a wire connected to the DIM connector, you'll need to sacrifice a pin connector cable to break out the pins and use those to populate the two wires on the DIM connector. I had a spare fan header from my PC laying around so I broke the pins out of those.



This worked great, because there were two different wire colors, to ensure I didn't cross the signals.

If you're looking at the DIM connector, pins 7 and 8 are at the bottom row (starting at 4 on the bottom right and 10 at the bottom left). Insert your pins into the connector until they click in and mate.



For my purposes, I made the black wire the "high" signal and the gray the "low".

To access the wires behind the OBD2 port, there is one Torx 25 you need to remove and it pulls right out. Pin 6 is the blue wire and pin 14 is the green wire.



I used Posi-taps to connect the DIM wires to the OBD2 wires. DIM 7 to OBD2 6. DIM 8 to OBD2 14.



Put everything back together, and it works perfectly.



You're able to do everything with the cluster as you would, such as clearing the maintenance reminder and all the tech package features. Again, the only functionality not working is Power/Eco gauge.

Definitely a worthwhile upgrade to bring an "older" S60 a bit up to date.

EDIT DECEMBER 2018:

I used VDASH to unlock the other color options in the DIM. Was able to change the DIM to the R-Design version.

 

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Oh my car is RHD with mileage in km, does it matter if the newer (used) 2014+ cluster comes from a LHD car with miles? Also Does it have to be an S60 or can it be from an XC60, S80 or XC70?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Are you kidding me? Is it really that easy? That is awesome!
Yes, it's that simple. ?

Does the adaptive cruise work as well?
I don't have it, but I've seen videos where it works perfectly fine. I have everything but the tech package on my car and all the other functions display fine on the DIM.

Oh my car is RHD with mileage in km, does it matter if the newer (used) 2014+ cluster comes from a LHD car with miles? Also Does it have to be an S60 or can it be from an XC60, S80 or XC70?
That I am not sure of. My understanding is that you should stick with the same car to avoid any issues, and to buy a cluster from your market. That might not be correct, but I didn't want to risk it given that I wasn't sure it would work in the first place.

The odometer initially read the old car's mileage until the computers communicated and adjusted the odometer to the correct value of my S60.
 

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How long were the wires you ran from the DIM to OBD2? Is it an easy path to just fish through behind the dash?

One thing that is never mentioned, but is important, is pulling the steering column to it's furthest away position. Doing that, I didn't have to remove the cover directly behind the wheel as shown in the video. An absent minded mistake when I was attempting the retrofit
 

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They'll pop up regularly so look for a good deal. You can score ones for pretty unbelievable prices, and you can also get fleeced, too. I got mine for $120 shipped from a reseller in California. As you can see it looked pretty new.
I second this. I have paid just under $200 for one and about $150 for another including shipping. They come around quick enough that you don't need to purchase the $600+ ones that are more common
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
How long were the wires you ran from the DIM to OBD2? Is it an easy path to just fish through behind the dash?

One thing that is never mentioned, but is important, is pulling the steering column to it's furthest away position. Doing that, I didn't have to remove the cover directly behind the wheel as shown in the video. An absent minded mistake when I was attempting the retrofit
Very easy to fish the wires through. I initially pulled the side panel off the dash but it wasn't necessary once I figured out the OBD2 port unscrewed off the bottom. There's nearly nothing behind the dash impinging the path between the steering column and the floor. I used a cord that was about 12-18" in length.

Even with the column fully forward I still needed to take the steering column cover off, the decklid was still to tight to pull away and expose the screws without scratching the dash underneath the deck with the deck clips, so I removed the column lid to give me that inch of give. Good call though, its always easy to forget the small details.
 

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How did you transfer the odometer mileage from the original speedometer to the new TFT speedometer? The challenge I had was that the mileage from the new TFT speedometer was significantly higher than my original speedometer and I was unable to reset or transfer the mileage data.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
How did you transfer the odometer mileage from the original speedometer to the new TFT speedometer? The challenge I had was that the mileage from the new TFT speedometer was significantly higher than my original speedometer and I was unable to reset or transfer the mileage data.
From what I've seen, the mileage might have to be lower on the TFT DIM for it to see your mileage and take that number. Since I had a 2012, it was pretty easy to find one that had lower than 60k miles.
 

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Did the original miles show on the new DIM?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Did the original miles show on the new DIM?
It did while I was in ignition I mode, until I turned on the car after finishing the install and the DIM spoke to the CEM.

You can kind of make it out in my image prior to the wiring post, where it shows a 25,6xx number and the last post showing my true mileage of 60k.
 

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It did while I was in ignition I mode, until I turned on the car after finishing the install and the DIM spoke to the CEM.

You can kind of make it out in my image prior to the wiring post, where it shows a 25,6xx number and the last post showing my true mileage of 60k.
Thanks. I want to do this to my S60 but it's a 2011.

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thanks. I want to do this to my S60 but it's a 2011.

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No problem, should still work for you on a 2011. :)
 

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From what I've seen, the mileage might have to be lower on the TFT DIM for it to see your mileage and take that number. Since I had a 2012, it was pretty easy to find one that had lower than 60k miles.
Crap, mines only done 29,000Km (18,000m) so will be more difficult to source.
 

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To get a wire connected to the DIM connector, you'll need to sacrifice a pin connector cable to break out the pins and use those to populate the two wires on the DIM connector. I had a spare fan header from my PC laying around so I broke the pins out of those.



This worked great, because there were two different wire colors, to ensure I didn't cross the signals.
You just happened to find the correct pin type for that connector? Are those the same as OEM? I'm wondering if you noticed any writing on the Volvo connector. These are probably all sourced by a few companies, most likely, AMP, TE or Molex. If we can identify the connector we could source the pin type needed which would make this conversion more PNP.
 
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