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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I decided to go through the retrofit process to get rid of the ugly column and gate shift assembly found in all of the 2011-2012 S60's.

I had perused a few threads here, specifically this one here for information on the assembly and some install guidance. http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?192497-2013-Style-Shifter-Retrofit

However, I hadn't found much on the S60 specifically... so when I did mine this past week, I decided to catalog everything to post a write up on here for others to see the process.

If anyone doesn't know what I'm referring to, I mean going from this:



To this:



For starters, you have to source the entire shifter assembly for this to work. Thankfully, there are plenty of them on eBay. Erie Vo-Vo, one of the major Volvo part resellers specifically, generally has several for purchase.

Here's pictures comparing the assemblies, showing that they are virtually the same besides the top end shifter design. If you buy the assembly, all the of associated electronics are included.



The assembly parts from Volvo are about $800 in change, but you can buy assemblies from anywhere between $100 (what I paid) to just under $200 for decent parts.

Alright, on the install...
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
To get to the assembly and the transmission tunnel floor, you'll need to take out the waterfall and center console. I found this video to be pretty helpful for this first set of parts.


First thing to take out is the top waterfall vent. This is a difficult part. Not because of it's complexity, but because there are a ton of really stiff clips. To do this right and not mar anything, you'll need to get a set of plastic auto pry tools.



I bought a good set on Amazon that have served me well. (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01L8GHB7O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

You really need to work hard to get some of these clips disconnected, but once you get some of the corners up, you can easily then get your fingers in and pull. Hard.





Once the vent is finally free, there is one green connector for the Hazards, disconnect.



Now, you'll see a set of six Torx 25 screws. There are four on top and two on the sides.



The four on top are pretty short, and the two on the sides are much longer.

A tip: Every one of the Torx 25 screws removed from the console, minus the two longer ones, are all the same and interchangeable, so you don't need to separate them out.

Next, there are two Torx 25 screws on the rear of waterfall. You can reach behind in the cubby area and feel them. They are a pain in the butt, but are easier to access from the passenger side (at least for me they were). I used a ratchet Torx bit to get at those.





By now, all the screws holding the waterfall in place have been released.

Pull the two side panels off from the driver and passenger side consoles to expose the console area underneath the waterfall.





Now you're ready to pull off the waterfall. Start from the top and gradually pull it forward to disengage all the clips. At the bottom, you'll need to pull up and away from the console and floor.



There is one green connector for the electronics on the center console. However, the harness is also held in place by two back plastic clips that are stubborn. You need to pull them off, but it might take you some work... just a forewarning.



Once you got the connector and harness clips off, now you can pull the waterfall out completely. NOTE: When you're doing this, it will be easier for you to turn the car on, place the car in neutral, turn it off, and then pull the waterfall out. The car will beep at you incessantly, which is highly annoying when trying to maneuver the part out, but don't fret. Once you're done, you can put it back in park and the car will finally turn off.



On to the next steps for the remaining console piece!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Now that you have the waterfall off, you can work on getting the rest of the console out.

You'll need to remove the four Torx 25 screws on the plastic at the four corners of the shifter assembly.



Those are the only four screws holding the lower assembly in, but you'll need to make room to pull it out by moving the center console and armrest out of the way.

Take off the lower center console panel on the driver's side.



Take out these two Torx 25 screws.



Go into the armrest cubby and remove the bottom rubber tray. Take these four Torx 25 screws out.



Once those are loose, the console is free, but I found it easier to get more leverage for the removal of the console area around the shifter by taking out the cupholder and disconnecting the 12V lead for the power outlet. That way, you can hinge the center console harness away from the center area toward the rear seats.



With the area clear of console bits, go ahead and put the car into Neutral again (it will make getting the trim out much easier) and work to disconnect the whole console trim. The top area will need to unclip from the rest of the dash. It might take a good bit of force.



Once that is finished, you are now clear to take out the shifter assembly.

 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
For the shifter assembly removal:

First, and I STRESS this part, do yourself a favor and mark with a permanent marker the outline of the assembly in its current position. This will save you massive headaches in the long run, because if you don't put it back correctly in place, you'll be misaligned with the waterfall, and it will not fit. Make sure to get all four corners.



There are four 10 mm nuts holding the assembly in place.



As you can see in this picture, the assembly has a large through hole and the pins are not centered, so you'd be in heading to frustration if you didn't mark the outline earlier.



With the assembly unbolted, it's now time to get the shift cable out of the assembly. There are two areas that need to be addressed: The large grommet in front, which is easy, and the white circular clip holding the cable into the ball joint on the assembly. That white clip was initially daunting, but it was easy once I figured out what to do.



First, pull the grommet out of the assembly with your hand.



Now, for the white clip... you will need to pull it up to disengage it from the ball joint. What worked very well for me was a small flat head screwdriver. Insert the flat head into the clip edge and use the arched area of the plastic in the picture as a pry point. You should be finally able to pop it up. Once popped up, the cable slides right out.



You can see the white clip still pulled up in this photo below. I kept the screwdriver in until the new assembly was in place and I was able to push the white clip back in to engage the ball joint.



Success, the assembly is out.



From this point on, all you need to do is everything again in reverse, pretty much to the letter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Here are more photos of the final part installed.







I hope this helps some of you that were unsure of the process and wanted to see it done. It took me about 2 1/2 hours in total, but a lot of that time was documenting with photos and figuring out some of the details, since I didn't have a good guide for the shifter cable removal and some of the underpinnings of the center console.

If you have any questions, feel free to PM me. :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
One thing to add of note. It is clear why Volvo went away from this shifter style after only one year. The cable that runs along the shifter from the knob to the assembly is extraordinarily frail and not up to the task of frequent abuse.

This thread on here highlights the issue in detail: http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?237707-Illuminated-Gear-Shift

Here is a video of my shifter. You can see the issues with non-functionality in Park, and the intermittent signal in Reverse (you can see it contacting and not when I touch the area underneath the knob in the leather boot. Once you go past those into Neutral and Drive modes, the cable is not pulled and those modes are unaffected.


Just one thing to be concerned with this retrofit. The fix, of course is another knob, but at least you can get yourself one of these Polestar knobs then... :) (might be a future purchase of mine).

https://www.myswedishparts.com/oem-parts/volvo-volvo-polestar-shift-knob-lighted-31367826
 

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To the sticky it goes! Thanks!
 

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Awesome write up! And I agree the stock shifter on 2011-12 models were not very exciting. This was one of the first things I changed and over the years have grown to really like it. I actually prefer having to push the shifter right to engage manual shifting (which I never do). I like resting my hand on the shifter when I drive and on cars where the shifter is pulled to the left to engage manual shifting I find myself constantly engaging manual shifting on turns when not intended. Never have that issue with this shifter. And this may sound strange but I really like the color of the orange indicators lol. Here's what I did back in 2012. It's from an S80.

 

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Awesome write up. I'm putting this on my list of things to do in the spring. It's getting too cold to be spending 2.5 hours outside now.
 

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Is that connector issue resolved if you use a Polestar shifter? Also, followed, thanks for the great guide and write up!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Is that connector issue resolved if you use a Polestar shifter? Also, followed, thanks for the great guide and write up!
I think they're all eventually going to get pulled and crimped to death. There is evidence, based on the pictures in the thread posted above that the newer shifters seem to have that part of the cable (near the shifter) reinforced to help with the crimping problem. If I get a new shift knob, I would give the cable a bit more slack (not guiding it through the assembly fully, and also bond or epoxy the connecter near the shifter in the max position, so it doesn't pull on itself near the connector when going to its furthest extent (in Park).
 

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My 15 S60 RD Platinum doesn't have an illuminated shifter. Should it have one?

Sent from my Galaxy S7 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
My 15 S60 RD Platinum doesn't have an illuminated shifter. Should it have one?

Sent from my Galaxy S7 using Tapatalk
Yours isn't even backlit?
 

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Yours isn't even backlit?
Nope.

In other news, this write-up is rather timely considering that the cupholder cover sent my parking hang-tag into the nether regions under the storage box...
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Yours isn't even backlit?
No

Sent from my Galaxy S7 using Tapatalk
Man, that's pretty lame. I was about to get a 2014+ assembly because i had thougjt at least the letters were lit, but found this one instead. Good to know. I think that you guys probably wont be able to add a knob if you wanted to without the associated electronics.

I pulled the cover off mine today to look at the cable. Oddly enough the cable at the shifter end is fine. Apparently the issue is lower in the knob under the boot, where I presume there is a pinch point that has marred the cable enough on the pins which control Park and Reverse.
 

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Man, that's pretty lame. I was about to get a 2014+ assembly because i had thougjt at least the letters were lit, but found this one instead. Good to know. I think that you guys probably wont be able to add a knob if you wanted to without the associated electronics.
*shrug* Instead, we have the TFT display instead of dials on the dash...
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
*shrug* Instead, we have the TFT display instead of dials on the dash...
Yep, and for me to retrofit that TFT, I'd have to buy a ~$500 OBD adapter to get it to read the gear and gas mileage...
 

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Did the same thing about 2 yrs ago. Looks 100% better.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Man, that's pretty lame. I was about to get a 2014+ assembly because i had thougjt at least the letters were lit, but found this one instead. Good to know. I think that you guys probably wont be able to add a knob if you wanted to without the associated electronics.

I pulled the cover off mine today to look at the cable. Oddly enough the cable at the shifter end is fine. Apparently the issue is lower in the knob under the boot, where I presume there is a pinch point that has marred the cable enough on the pins which control Park and Reverse.
Im about to start this process soon. However from what I have read it seems not be an issue with the cable but rather that cable being pinched? If so what was your fix to stop the crimping of the cable.
 
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