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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, this is my first Volvo I've ever owned and I've recently had a random issue where I parked in the garage, pulled the key out and set it in the center console and left the car unlocked in my garage overnight. When I went to leave for work in the morning it had no power at all! Not even interior lighting...no sounds, nothing. I was 100% positive I didn't leave any lights on or anything. So I got my buddy to give me a jump. Started right up as if nothing had happened...battery had almost nothing left in it (judging by touching the 2 jumper cables together). This has not happened again but it has only been 1day. I've recently also had an issue where the cabin fan was blowing air inside while the key wasn't even in it...this was over an hour after it was parked about a week ago. Now I had a dead battery. What could be my issue???
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Also, this is a 2011 xc90 3.2L with 91000 miles, stock with the tow package and aftermarket u-haul trailer wiring.
 

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The fan is supposed to come on automatically to purge moisture from the AC system. This is normal, and probably not the cause of the dead battery. How old is the battery? You might want to have it checked for capacity.
 

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I would have the battery tested. This is exactly how my last two batteries died. No lights on. The car stays mostly active for about 5 minutes after key is out, then shuts down most. But if the battery failed, it could have died before it shut itself down.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I don't have the sat radio. I'm positive my battery is good but I will test it! So I have no idea if these issues corespond to the battery dieing, but my "car locked" horn/sound doesn't work at all and when I pull the driver side window switch all the way up the window comes up and then goes back down or goes down 2inches (occasionally). I think I may have a wiring short?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Also, another random issue is I have a bad passenger side wheel bearing, probably the front and I also believe I have an out going torque converter from towing a trailer to Alaska as it occasionally shudders.
 

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Search for how to resync the front window. It's sensing an obstruction when it should be sensing all the way up.

The converter problem might be corrected if you change the trans fluid. Check other threads.

Wheel bearings? I can't keep up with them... ;)
 

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You might have just answered your own question of where to look. The Climate Control fan blows after it is turned off, but not an hour after. Why don't you pull that fuse overnight and see if the battery drains the same way. Who knows if this has been happening for a while and now the battery is weaker, thus can drain easily.

Regarding the batteries, I usually change my own battery. When you select a battery on the shelf, look for the newest one. They should be stamped or marked.

The window probably needs to be recalibrated due to the battery drain. See this video of how to recalibrate: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_j-F8wi__5U

As far as the transmission, not sure what you towed, how you drove, how heavy, etc. However, at your mileage, it is time to change the transmission fluid. Probably the cheapest way to help your transmission at this point.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks! You guys are awesome! I will change the tranny fluid, re-sync my window, and probably pull the fuse if there is a future issue, but a new battery for now will do.
 

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The Climate Control fan blows after it is turned off, but not an hour after.
Can you clarify this? Mine seems to come on at fairly random intervals after use. I am guessing I've seen it run as much as 6 hours later. (I also have battery problems, but dead batteries only in the winter.)
 

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Can you clarify this? Mine seems to come on at fairly random intervals after use. I am guessing I've seen it run as much as 6 hours later. (I also have battery problems, but dead batteries only in the winter.)
That's the first you mentioned the fan coming on hours after turning off the vehicle. I think I remember saying to pull fuses or relays to narrow down which system is draining and that even a fan can come on randomly draining the battery. Weird things can happen with computer/control modules, whether they are caused by software glitches or hardware issues.

Since both of your XC90s are 2011s, I wonder if both of you get the free software updates available from Volvo, if the intermittent turning-on of the fan would stop.
 

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Worth checking the charging system. The car *can* tell when the battery is getting low and not run the blower, but if the battery has a bad cell or is sulfated, all bets would be off.

If you didn't have enough battery for interior lighting, that is a very sick battery.

-Ryan
 

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That's the first you mentioned the fan coming on hours after turning off the vehicle.
Let me clarify. I've never seen the fan run when the AC hasn't been on. I also do not allow the AC to run in the winter. I only have dead batteries in the winter, after sitting for several days.

Given the randomness of the problem, and absent a way to record current draw over long periods of time, I doubt I'll ever get to the bottom of it by anything other than dumb luck. For now, I'll just put it on a charger if it has to sit.
 

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Let me clarify. I've never seen the fan run when the AC hasn't been on. I also do not allow the AC to run in the winter. I only have dead batteries in the winter, after sitting for several days.

Given the randomness of the problem, and absent a way to record current draw over long periods of time, I doubt I'll ever get to the bottom of it by anything other than dumb luck. For now, I'll just put it on a charger if it has to sit.
I see. Well, I am sure you are fully aware of the phrase, 'the battery goes bad in July, but you don't know about it until December' (or along those lines). On that note, you know your drain pattern best.

The standard practice is to remove system fuses or relays to see if they affect parasitic drain. At the least, it helps to narrow if there isn't a parasitic loss in a given system, then you know the system is good.

I am curious of both your 2011 XC90 battery issues. I know of another XC90 where the owner figured out his wife accidentally left the light on overnight for 10 hrs, but the 4yr old battery did not drain where the interior lights would not turn on. I was the one he called for a jump and my harbor freight Lithium jump starter started it right up (don't believe the jump starter has enough amps to start if the car battery is flat). I also know that modules can turn lights off that were accidentally left on. So, from my understanding, it takes more than just a forgotten light to completely render a battery flat. Please update of any progress.
 

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I see. Well, I am sure you are fully aware of the phrase, 'the battery goes bad in July, but you don't know about it until December' (or along those lines). On that note, you know your drain pattern best.
It has done it with a near new battery and with a 3 year old battery. I've never had one that was more than 3 years old...

The standard practice is to remove system fuses or relays to see if they affect parasitic drain. At the least, it helps to narrow if there isn't a parasitic loss in a given system, then you know the system is good.
Well, according to that logic, my system is good. I have never been able to measure a significant parasitic drain. I've said before, it's as if the trolls come out at night and run the seat heaters.

Pulling fuses won't help unless it happens to go flat while a fuse is out: I could eliminate that circuit as the problem. The problem is too random and my driving patterns such that it's not possible to wait for a failure. If it happens I know it's one of the live circuits, and if it doesn't happen I know less.

I am curious of both your 2011 XC90 battery issues. I know of another XC90 where the owner figured out his wife accidentally left the light on overnight for 10 hrs, but the 4yr old battery did not drain where the interior lights would not turn on. I was the one he called for a jump and my harbor freight Lithium jump starter started it right up (don't believe the jump starter has enough amps to start if the car battery is flat). I also know that modules can turn lights off that were accidentally left on. So, from my understanding, it takes more than just a forgotten light to completely render a battery flat. Please update of any progress.
I know it's happened when the remote unlock function fails. It's always jumped easily. I've never had it fail to start during the day after a jump. I always charge it fully that evening and am good for another random number of days or weeks.

I don't want to hijack the OP's thread. I've resigned myself to living with the problem. Maybe by using the battery maintainer I can get 5 years out of this one. Meanwhile, the Drive-in is off limits. ;(
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Ok, so it's been awhile but here is what I got: another new battery (tested at the store as well), alternator showed it was charging the system properly, the car has also not died since the initial death of my battery, but my car locking horn/sound still does not work and I can't figure out why. I fear my car died due to the locking system failure mentioned above, considering all my electronics/systems work except the validating honk of "car locked" which tells me something is wrong there. Any ideas? I called Volvo, and they said my car has records showing it's been serviced last year at their dealership (from previous owner) and the records show computer work was done, but says nothing specific.
 
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