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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Haven’t had many engine problems in 25k miles yet. Then today happened. Was on my way to work when I noticed the ride started to get really rough, then got the ‘reduce speed or shift up’ message with the engine temp symbol. See here for what I’m talking about: https://uploads-tapatalk--cdn-com.c...20180915/eda87eb464f320df02b3489fdd94dada.jpg

Also had a flashing check engine light. Was almost to work so went ahead and went in to deal with it later. Eventually later came so I went across the street to Walmart and got some Lucas fuel treatment, assuming at worst I had gotten some bad gas (filled up just the day prior). Added the appropriate amount and then the car wouldn’t turn over at all. I bought an OBDII reader while I was there and got a code for coil pack failure as well as multiple misfires on cylinder 6. Low and behold it was indeed blown. Swapped it with a new one, should be good to go, right? Nope. Still won’t turn over. Not pulling any new codes either. Now I’m looking at would the problem could be. I’ve never had any other sort of engine problems before with this car.
 

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2011 S60 T6 Rough Idle, Now won't start

A flashing check engine light means stop immediately because the fault is liable to cause engine damage. If the light was flashing the entire time you were driving it's entirely possible that you caused additional damage beyond just the coil that caused the misfire.

When you say that it won't turn over, do you actually mean that or do you mean that it turns over (cranks) but doesn't start? If it's not turning over at all, that's a different troubleshooting path than if it spins but doesn't start.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
A flashing check engine light means stop immediately because the fault is liable to cause engine damage. If the light was flashing the entire time you were driving it's entirely possible that you caused additional damage beyond just the coil that caused the misfire.
I stopped driving until the check engine light stopped flashing, and proceeded to drive maybe a quarter mile at low rev to work. Probably not even a quarter mile.


When you say that it won't turn over, do you actually mean that or do you mean that it turns over (cranks) but doesn't start? If it's not turning over at all, that's a different troubleshooting path than if it spins but doesn't start.
The engine will not fire. Almost as if it’s not getting fuel. The only comparable similarity would be if fuel wasn’t being pumped, but a fuel pump failure along with the coil failure is a wild coincidence to happen at the same time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I might also add that I didn’t get the check engine light after I left work, nor did I get the reduce speed/shift message. Only the rough drive and idle.
 

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I might also add that I didn’t get the check engine light after I left work, nor did I get the reduce speed/shift message. Only the rough drive and idle.
I would suspect that it's a problem with the same coil that was just replaced if clearing the code doesn't make the light turn off. Double check that everything on the new coil is connected correctly and start from there.
 

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Just to clarify:
1- car would crank (I.e. turn over) but would not start.
2- after you made it to work in the morning the car never started again. Your last post makes it sound as if you drove it after changing the coil. Did you?

If the car never started again I wouldn't be surprised if the check engine light (CEL) did not come on. It might only come on after engine starts running.

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I might also add that I didn’t get the check engine light after I left work, nor did I get the reduce speed/shift message. Only the rough drive and idle.
I would suspect that it's a problem with the same coil that was just replaced if clearing the code doesn't make the light turn off. Double check that everything on the new coil is connected correctly and start from there.
have done this multiple times now
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Just to clarify:
1- car would crank (I.e. turn over) but would not start.
2- after you made it to work in the morning the car never started again. Your last post makes it sound as if you drove it after changing the coil. Did you?

If the car never started again I wouldn't be surprised if the check engine light (CEL) did not come on. It might only come on after engine starts running.

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1. Yes.
2. No. After work I went across the street to Walmart to get some Lucas oil treatment thinking that would fix the rough idle. Turns out it didn’t and after I added that it would not start. Found out that a coil was shot after it wouldn’t start (still at Walmart) and got one from auto parts store. After putting in brand new coil, it still would not start.

I was thinking the same thing in regards to codes not generating again since I can’t get the car to start. Also tried starter fluid and that did not work as well.
 

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At this point, it's time for a VIDA scan. Too many possibilities to effectively troubleshoot over the internet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
At this point, it's time for a VIDA scan. Too many possibilities to effectively troubleshoot over the internet.
Just a troubleshooting update. Replaced every spark plug because they looked awful and saw that then grounded one and checked for a spark on a “good” cylinder (cylinder 1). No spark. Fuel is being pumped (or at least we can smell it). Not sure where to go from here without toting it 150 miles out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
If anyone has anyone has any other ideas that don’t involve getting it towed 150 miles, please let me know
 

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If you're not getting a spark from any of the cylinders then the problem is most likely before the coil packs, the ECM or the wiring to them. I would check for water damage in the connectors from the ECM to the coil packs. You could also try to pull codes with a generic OBDII reader. Could be that another sensor died which is preventing the ECM from triggering the coil packs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
If you're not getting a spark from any of the cylinders then the problem is most likely before the coil packs, the ECM or the wiring to them. I would check for water damage in the connectors from the ECM to the coil packs. You could also try to pull codes with a generic OBDII reader. Could be that another sensor died which is preventing the ECM from triggering the coil packs.
Not getting any new codes as stated previously. Possibly due to the engine not starting. I’m going to check fuses later just to make sure that isn’t the problem. There were no signs of water damage anywhere but I’ll check that too I guess.
 

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On older models this would sound like either an issue with the crankshaft position sensor or camshaft position sensor - I don't know about newer models and that would just be throwing parts at a problem which I hate to do. Sounds like you have fuel so can rule those items out.

Hopefully there's an indy near where you live with some import experience that can diagnose it.
 

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What about rodents chewing into the wiring?
Long shot but you never know.
 

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Coil pack works with plugs, right? Seems weird that a coil would go bad so quickly, but if you've swapped those out, then it must be wire or plugs. Bad plugs can fry a coil from what I read. NEW coil pack or a known working replacement?
 

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When you said it “won’t start/ crank” are you just pushing the start button once or holding it down.

Mine is a 12 one time. I got in pushed the start button & nothing ( called the dealer at the time I had the car for 8-9 months ) he said hold down the button for 5 seconds & see if it does anything. While still on the phone it took a couple seconds but it started & I drove it straight there
( mine was the battery ) even though all the interior lights / gauges were on normal.




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What about rodents chewing into the wiring?
Long shot but you never know.
I had that happen to a vacuum hose on my brake booster. Parked my car @ my moms house while out of town for a little over a month


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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Coil pack works with plugs, right? Seems weird that a coil would go bad so quickly, but if you've swapped those out, then it must be wire or plugs. Bad plugs can fry a coil from what I read. NEW coil pack or a known working replacement?
The wording of this confused me a little. The coil pack for cylinder 6 went bad (top cracked/busted slightly) and was replaced with a brand new one. Also replaced all spark plugs. Plugs are not sparking. I’m wondering if the fuse for the coils blew at some point which will be the next thing I check.
 
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