The DTC codes are 1) P062800 Fuel pump circuit too low 2) P029900 Turbo underboost 3) P008700 Fuel Rail pressure too low. I went ahead and ordered a new Fuel rail pressure sensor $40 and if that doesnt help, getting a preowned fuel pump.

As far as accessing the fuel pump, research points to dropping the fuel tank. However, initial look suggests there is enough clearance to cut out access hole from the top, will try doing that first before dropping the tank.

 

My VW GTI's in-tank pump failed right around the 140,000 mark, and that seems to be right around when modern fuel pumps seem to go, so a failed fuel pump isn't out of the question in your case. My GTI had access to the fuel pump from above the tank, by lifting the seat bottom off the floor, securing it in a lifted position with the rear seatbelts, then removing a fuel pump module from the floor, at which point there was a window in the floor with access to the pump in the top of the tank. I'm not sure what the procedure is for the Volvo but it's possible it's a similar setup. Another way to get clues is to "reverse engineer" the setup by searching Google images and eBay for a fuel tank for your year model Volvo. Hopefully any parts available will include photographs that can give you insight into where the pump would go, which would in turn give you some ideas as to how to access that pump. Another idea would be to go to a new parts supplier like Tasca online and go through the process of looking for the tank and/ or fuel pump to order, and the ancillary parts associated with those items. That should pull up a diagram of the fuel tank and everything directly associated with it, which will also give you an idea of how things come apart. Hope this helps. :thumbup:

 

Fuel pump is inside the tank. Tank will need to be dropped from underneath car after removal of exhaust system, drive shaft etc. 2 person job.
Easier to find low km tank from equivalent T6 and replace entire tank.

 

Here is my take on this project:

Took me a total of 4 hours between first cutting a hole (1hr), then removing the old pump (1hr), installing replacement pump (1hr), and breaks in between. Note this will void your warranty. I dont care because my car is old and past the warranty anyway.

The diagnosis goes like this: 1) check the 20Amp fuse for Fuel Pump under the glove box compartment 2) replace fuel rail pressure sensor 3) replace Fuel pump 4) if nothing works, try replacing the Fuel Pump ECU unit.

 

Hi, how did you even get the pump out?? It’s connected to the other side and I can’t manage to lift it more the 10cm (4”).

 

This is a PITA now matter how you do it. I used an oscillating cutter to make an opening big enough to lift the pump out. There is a hole near the outer perimeter of the fuel pump location with a plug in it. Take out the plug and locate the edge of the pump collar. I measured 2 1/2" from the edge of the collar to the center of the pump. The replacement pump is 5" in diameter. You probably need more like 2 3/4" to get the best access. I used a compass to draw the perimeter of the hole on the sheet metal. I used the cutting tool to make the opening. FYI, the 180 degrees of the opening near the front of the seat support has three layers of sheet metal. You can see those pieces in the picture in the previous post. In addition, there is a seat support on the door side of the proposed opening that is spot welded to the outer layer of sheet metal. Those pieces can be cut or bent out of the way. Start with a new blade.

Access to the fastener on the collar clamp is very tough. The fastener is a 7mm hex/slotted screw. No room for even a short screwdriver. I used a 1/4" mini extension in the socket and turned it with a 1/4" angled gear wrench. It takes a long time to get it off. Stuff a rag between the exterior of the tank wall and the interior wall of the seat support so that when the socket and the extension fall off you can retrieve them easily. I tried an angle head 7mm gear wrench and it will not fit. Take a picture of the orientation of the pump in the tank before you remove the clamp. You will want to install the new pump in the same orientation. Once the clamp is off, I used a set of snap ring pliers to spread the plastic collar enough to lift it off of one side of the pump. Work it around the perimeter of the pump until comes free. Be careful not to damage the rubber gasket between the pump and the tank opening. It is very fragile. When you remove the evaporator pipe off of the top of the pump, be careful not to break the locking tab/clamp. They break unless you are very gentle. They get brittle over time. The gas feed line removal from the top of the tank is counterintuitive. Grip the exposed end of the line and pull it gently away form the pump. It will move a few millimeters. Push the locking collar back towards the pump while pulling on the fuel line, it will come out. Remove the electrical connector. Remove the clamp and the plastic collar from the tank and set aside. Pull the pump up a few inches to expose the myriad of in-tank lines attached to it. I tied a piece of nylon twine to each line to keep them from being lost back into the tank, and labelled where they connect to. In addition, take a picture of their orientation and routing into the tank, while they are connected, to avoid crimping them upon re-installation. Be very careful when you disconnect the in-tank evap line from the inside of the pump. It has the same type of locking tab/clamp as the one on the outside. They are very brittle and easy to break. Once all of the fuel lines are labelled and disconnected, you will need to push them back into the tank in order for the base of the pump reservoir to clear the tank. Gently rotate the pump and tilt it towards the rear of the car. Fuel will spill from the reservoir so have rags and something to catch the fuel so it does not soak into the foam insulation. Keep liftin the pump at an angle to pour out the fuel. It must be tilted for the float to clear the lip of the tank. Once the float clears, you need to keep tilting until the sock filter clears the opening. Now you have the entire pump in your hand. Installation is the reverse of this process. I installed the sock filter to the pump reservoir and inserted that portion into the tank. I used a long pair of needle nose pliers to install the float to the side of the pump to avoid damage to the float. I lowered the pump about 1/2 way into the tank and then reconnected the fuel lines and two electrical connections. The inside evap line is the most difficult. It has a mind of its own! Once all internal lines are connected, gently pull each line to check that they will not come loose. Gently rotate and lower the pump into place according to the orientation picture. Install the plastic collar and the clamp. Install the evap line, fuel line, and electrical connection. Pull gently to be sure they are tight. Reconnect the battery and test the installation by starting the car. Check for CEL codes. Adjust the pump and internal hoses as needed to clear codes. I made a pattern of the hole using card stock. I obtained a piece of sheet metal and taped the pattern to the sheet. I traced a line 1/2" outside the perimeter of the card stock for overlap. I drew six tabs outside of the perimeter for mounting screws. I made cut two more pieces of sheet metal in the shape of the seat support and the extra layers of metal under the front part of the seat. I made matching tabs for screw holes on those pieces to the attachment tabs on the large hole cover. I attached each of those pieces to the bottom of the large hole cover with pop rivets. I painted the entire cover black to inhibit rust. I attached the cover over the pump access hole with six self-tapping sheet metal screws. I used strips of 3M black strip-calk to form a gasket. It is vapor and water tight!

 

I am at 147k! Why did they not put a fuel pump access hatch!