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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,

I recently joined the forum as I just purchased my first Volvo. Our family had a single car and I wanted to get a car for myself that met the following criteria:

  • Same or larger than our 2014 Mazda3
  • AWD for the winter
  • Manual - I have never driven manual before
  • Leather seats
  • Fun to drive
  • Something I can tinker with (oil change, replace some worn parts) Since we have the second car I am OK if this isn't driveable for a few days

Originally I was looking for something like a Subaru Legacy GT or VW Wagon. I ended up stumbling across what appeared to me as a fairly well maintained V50 T5 AWD.

2010 V50 T5 AWD M66
207K KM
Passion Red (612)
Quartz interrior (I think that is the colour name)

I am not sure about all the options on the car but it does have the following (some may be standard, forgive my ignorance):
  • Heated Seats
  • Dual climate control
  • Auto-dimming mirror
  • Leather seats
  • Those funky auto-turning headlights
  • High-Performance Audio (USB, Aux-in, Sat radio)
  • Rain Sensor wipers
  • BLISS, Heated and Auto folding mirrors

It seems to drive nicely, I have had a few more experienced manual drivers try it out for me. I am still learning but can get around fine so far.

Some cosmetic upgrades I have or will purchase shortly:

  • Rear spoiler (Volvo)
  • Mud Flaps (Volvo)
  • License Plate Cover (Volvo)
  • Rear license plate mount (rusted)
  • Replace missing rear tow hook cover
  • Skid plate (engine cover, I purchased a plastic one for now. The car did not come with one which feels very bad especially with the salt here in the winter).



I would like some input as to how I can help maintain this car, preventative maintenance etc.

Timing belt was changed at 195K KM in Nov 2018 according to the sticker.
Oil was lat changed at 203K and looks clean still.

Items I think need replacing:

  • Engine Air Filter (Done, the old one was very dirty)
  • Cabin Air Filter (Not looking forward to this after looking at how it is done, should receive it next week).
  • I think the boost tubing needs to be replaced as the rubber parts are starting to shed rubber when rubbed by hand.
  • The boost hard pipe is corroded, not sure how cosmetic this is or if it should be replaced as well (do88? with new intercooler)
  • I think I may replace all the coolant tubes as well to silicone (IPD?)
  • Spark plugs? Or should I wait until I think something is wrong?
  • Passenger side motor mount is soft/squishy and needs replacing. I will purchase all 3.
  • There is some kind of shielding over the steering that is completely rusted out
  • The car came with "new" brake rotors/pads and tires (Uniroyal...) I took a look at the brake fluid and there is clearly some particles in there so they did not flush the system. I will do a brake flush.
  • Oil + Filter I will change


Pics of the car: https://photos.app.goo.gl/K6PazUcRuoL7ns1z8


Thanks!
 

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where are you? i have a clean used boost hardpipe that i got from erievovo.com for $50, make me an offer. i also have a silicone boost tubing kit i got from IPD(121339), never opened pkg, as I decided to do something different, $100. also have an IPD TCV kit, in unopened pkg, for $75. do ALL the motor mounts at the same time. do the plugs, its cheap maintenance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I'll send a PM davidw, thanks for suggestions. I am definitely interested in those parts.

I am located in Ottawa, Canada. I'll update my profile as well.
 

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JMHO -- when you flush the brakes, also flush the clutch slave cylinder. Also IMO, changing out the power steering fluid is a good idea.

The upper radiator hose on these cars has a bad design and failure can result in engine-destroying overheating. I don't think you have to go silicone, but you should probably replace it with something if it hasn't been done yet.

Keep a sharp eye on your axle boots, maybe you can repack if any of them get torn.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks bbrages,

I've ordered some power steering fluid and will look up how to do that.

Regarding the clutch slave, I think I have seen some posts here about that. I will definitely do it.

I will take a look at the axle boots as well.

I have a nifty OBD-II device that I could program to read various things, would it be possible to detect this coolant failure? or is it such a failure that does not trip any sensors?
 

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Oh, it trips the sensor all right. Only, after the engine is toast. Seriously, if you have the plastic-tee type upper hose, replace it. It's hard to see through the forest of stuff behind the airbox at the back of the engine, but it is visible.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ahh, that is no good. Is it that the overheat happens too quickly?

I wonder if a simple buzzer with a microcontroller on the canbus lines to monitor temperature ourselves could warn us earlier?
 

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Yes, aluminum engine blocks do not tolerate loss of cooling. This is true of all makes.

The tee generally starts to split and weep a small amount of coolant, but nobody ever notices it at that point. Eventually, the split widens, and pressure in the coolant system finishes the job, with catastrophic results.

I don't see how a sensor can address this. Unless you plan to wire up a "Engine toasted" light. Spend the money and effort on a silicone upper radiator hose, from Viva, IPD, or your other favorite retailer.
 

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I am not a fan of modifying the coolant tank because I picture the mod failing and causing the coolant loss it is supposed to warn against.

I replaced my upper radiator hose with a Gates 24602 ($12 at Rockauto) that has an improved design (the stock photo doesn't show this) that will not crack in the same way as the original tee.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks bbrages.

I agree with modding the tank itself, I will take my time and see if perhaps there is a way to make a hose with a sensor build in somehow. In the meantime I will change the hose, but even with a new hose I would feel safer with something to monitor the coolant. Seems silly we have a low windshield wiper fluid sensor but nothing for coolant. Ahh well.

The first actual issue presented itself yesterday on my car. Yesterday it rained, I knew about the sunroof drains and I did notice a little bit of water near the OBD-II connector side of the driver foot well. Well after reading more, I decided to check the read seats and wouldn't you know the floor is completely soaked in the rear.

I will follow the existing threads on fixing the tubing / unblocking it. I will also be removing the carpet or something to get it dried out.
 

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Nice find! I've been scouring Canadian listings for V50 AWD M66's this year, and finally ended up with a cheap number from Quebec. It needed a windshield, and I've gone down the rabbit hole and the cylinder head is coming off. Glad yours only has the minor sunroof drain issue. When I bought my S40, the rear footwell was a swimming pool which got me a good discount for a few hours of work replacing the tubing and pulling up the carpet to clear out the water. No electrical damage, thank goodness.

I'm not sure if it's the Canadian climate, but the upper radiator hose T has seemed in perfect condition on all 3 of my cars, but will be replacing it on this one just to be safe.

Hope you enjoy it, and possibly see you around! We're up in the Ottawa area every now and again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks, LittleRedRidingHood

I followed your post about your find in Quebec, looks nice! I paid quite a bit more for mine. I was in Quebec City a couple of weekends ago, my parents live there. I noticed they have a huge number of Volvos there compared to Ottawa (at least in the area I was in).

I'll be heading outside now to assess the water damage and maybe replace the cabin air filter while I'm out there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Last night I took the A-Pillars off to assess the sunroof drain issue. Obviously there are tons of threads about how/why and what to do so I will just document here what I saw and plan to do.

Driver side is the most wet, the drain hose was completely disconnected from the coupling going through the firewall. The passenger side was loose but still connected, appears that the nozzle is clogged (one going through the firewall).

With the driver side hose reconnected water flows outside freely.

I tried to clear the passenger side, but no luck. Water backs up the tube and leaks down the A-pillar. Some water does make it outside but I think it is a slow trickle.

I took the wheel well cover off on the passenger side (I hadn't realized yet you can't access the bottom of the drain from here). There was a ton of debris in the wheel well, cleaned it out. I will take the headliner out partially tomorrow to check the connection at the sunroof itself.

I think because the hoses are loose and feel old/not great I am just going to replace them with some new vinyl tubing as mentioned in other threads. I haven't decided if I will try to cut those connectors through the firewall to allow more water to pass through and not block as easily, or if I will just run the tub down there as some have done. Again, the other posts are quite detailed and I think it has been done both ways, I just need to decide on a solution.

So tonight/tomorrow I will be removing the carpet/seats to clean and dry it, and install that new hose. I will remove those connectors through the firewall and assess whether I keep them (and make the opening bigger) or just run the hose down there.

My car did have a funny smell when I purchased it, but I didn't immediately think of mildew/mold, but this could be the source! I thought maybe it was just a weird cleaner they used on it or leather treatment.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Today removed both front seats and rear bench to get access to remove the carpet. It was soaking wet, as I park with a slight decline towards the rear of the car.

I carpet shampooed the foam and top of all 3 pieces and they are hang drying in the garage (raining now outside).

Thanks to everyone for the great posts about replacing the sunroof drains. I replaced the passager side with some vinyl tubing. For now, I am going to just cut it a bit longer and not replace those L couplings in the firewall. I will see how it goes. I was able to remove the carpet without fully detaching the passenger seat, just tilted it forwards/back to remove the rear/front carpeting. I did decouple the electrical connection from the seat, but not the individual wires (there was enough slack to tilt the seat and remove the carpet).

It started to rain, but once it is done I will replace the driver side and see if any water got back into the car.

Once that is done, I will be replacing the cabin air filter.
 

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Today removed both front seats and rear bench to get access to remove the carpet. It was soaking wet, as I park with a slight decline towards the rear of the car.

I carpet shampooed the foam and top of all 3 pieces and they are hang drying in the garage (raining now outside).

Thanks to everyone for the great posts about replacing the sunroof drains. I replaced the passager side with some vinyl tubing. For now, I am going to just cut it a bit longer and not replace those L couplings in the firewall. I will see how it goes. I was able to remove the carpet without fully detaching the passenger seat, just tilted it forwards/back to remove the rear/front carpeting. I did decouple the electrical connection from the seat, but not the individual wires (there was enough slack to tilt the seat and remove the carpet).

It started to rain, but once it is done I will replace the driver side and see if any water got back into the car.

Once that is done, I will be replacing the cabin air filter.
Nice work! I'd strongly suggest replacing the cabin air filter while the front seat is still out of the car. That is a luxury you won't often have.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Yesterday I replaced the cabin air filter. It was in dire need of changing. I also vacuumed out the filter housing as I could feel some small debris in there.

My model (as others have seen) has one white plastic wing screw that holds the filter in place, so that part was easy.

I also installed the OEM mudflaps. In the process, I took out all the wheel well covers, rinsed them and also rinsed inside the wheel wells. There is a bit of rust starting on the front wheel wells ("Repaired" by the place I got the car from) and I noticed that there was tons of mud/dirt right against the metal. I got it all out, used a metal brush and cleaned /primed the area under the wheel to hopefully slow it down.

My carpets dried outside all day, now they are in the basement under a UV/Grow light and some air filter fans. I think they are pretty dry now. I replaced the driver side tubing as well and tested with some buckets of water on the roof, everything inside stayed dry.

A friend of mine is going to let me borrow his ozone generator to neutralize any remaining smells in the car+carpets before I fully install them.
 

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I also installed the OEM mudflaps. In the process, I took out all the wheel well covers, rinsed them and also rinsed inside the wheel wells. There is a bit of rust starting on the front wheel wells ("Repaired" by the place I got the car from) and I noticed that there was tons of mud/dirt right against the metal. I got it all out, used a metal brush and cleaned /primed the area under the wheel to hopefully slow it down.
Fender rust seems to be quite an issue in northerly cars. You may want to verify this, but I read that it's not a good idea to leave primer exposed, as it absorbs water whereas paint repels water.
 
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