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I'm new to this site, and recently purchased a 2010 S40.Everything was fine for about 3 weeks. About 3 1/2 months ago the check engine light came on. It had codes p2420,p2401,p0075,p0458,p0100 stored and the a/c quit working (all at the same time). Fuse 35 was blown. Put another fuse in and cleared codes. Car was fine for 2 weeks. Same thing again. Looked around the wiring to the a/c compressor and tried to move it around a little bit think it might be occasional short. Replaced fuse again and 9 days later same thing again. I went ahead and replaced the a/c relay since it was cheap thinking it might have had a short in it. Car was fine for just about 60 days exactly. Yesterday it did the exact same thing. I'm not sure if changing the temp on the climate control has anything to do with it. have checked fuse 35 amp draw and it only shows .8-.9 amps when the a/c kicks on. The a/c does have a separate fuse that has never blown with a 3.1 amp draw with a/c on. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Jim
 

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Have you checked for codes or checked it with a dice/vida?
 

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It's been over 4 months now and all seems to be well.A couple of days after I posted this the windshield developed a very slight leak.My glass guy said the primer to adhere to the windshield had a spot that had turned loose.I think that moisture must have been causing the problem and had to get a little worse before we even discovered it.We had a pretty heavy rain and it only left a spot of about a quarter on the seat.Sometimes crazy things can drive you nuts trying to find them.
 

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I have a 2010 V40 and am having the same issue with fuse 35. It blows, I replace it and all is fine, but then anywhere from a couple of weeks to a couple of months later it blows again. It is winter right now, so I have the AC turned off most of the time, so I don't think this has anything to do with the AC. Any thoughts on what else might be causing it? Thanks,
 

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Yeap. Check engine lights up. All sort of codes grom evap, maf, vvti solenoid show up. In my case the car also stalls a lot when the fuse is blown.
Can't believe no one has actually found the problem yet. My car does the same thing. Other strange things it does is the outside temp goes nuts sometimes. I know there's a connection between the a/c and that but I dont think that is the reason the fuse 35 keeps blowing.
Watched a video of a guy who had the a/c fuse constantly blowing and traced it down to a bad cooling fan. It was an older S40 though.
Right now I just carry a load of 15A fuses with me just in case. This is so frustrating.
 

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I'm in the same boat. 2011 V50 T5 and fuse 35 has been blowing for a couple of years on and off. Sometimes it blows a few times in a week and sometimes it is a month or more between blows. Local shop couldn't determine definitively what the cause is, though they thought it might be a bad turbo solenoid or the oil pan heater. For now I'm just carrying around a bunch of replacement fuses because it blows so irregularly it is almost impossible to trouble shoot.
 

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Specifically, the best I can tell:

2/22 - Relay coil for 8/3 (AC clutch, power through F27) [engine fuse box]
6/67 - Pump, fuel leakage control [fuel tank]
7/17 - MAF (mass air flow sensor) [intake]

8/18 - EVAP valve [under intake]
8/19 - VVT (variable valve timing) solenoid, intake side [head, under timing belt cover]
8/28 - TCV (turbo control valve) solenoid [turbo] - turbo only
8/81 - VVT (variable valve timing) solenoid, exhaust side [head, under timing belt cover] - turbo only
9/32 - PTC resistor, oil trap?? - no idea...

It's not a problem with the AC clutch, except that it powers the relay so the clutch won't work when F35 is blown.

I would check:

1) pull off head & upper timing belt cover, make sure no wires are pinched, esp near VVT valves. Have seen the split loom and wire insulation crumble under there due to heat and oil, and it's easy to pinch wires if you are rushing to change spark plugs. Insulate (electrical tape) where necessary and replace split loom as required.

2) check TCV by turbo, the wires for this are routed very close to the exhaust components. If the clips fail, I could see how they would melt through easily. When I replaced TCV with IPD, I moved the whole thing to the firewall, completely away from the turbo. Insulate as necessary and secure loose wires with zip ties away from hot stuff.

3) if you don't see anything obvious, check the wire bundles going to the MAF and EVAP valves for signs of abrasion. I wouldn't rip these open unless you see a problem from the outside. I think the "fuel leakage control" pump is on the outside of the fuel tank, you might be able to see it from the bottom of the car - maybe it has an issue like the FPM with water infiltration? If that's good, the only other possibility is 9/32, but honestly I've got no idea where the oil trap PTC resistor is...
 

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Funny both of you have 2010 models....

6/67 pump is that item you swear at when trying to replace the RR camber arm.

9/32: Wouldn't surprise me if this is wrong. By description it sounds like it's the electrical plug on the oil filter housing.

 

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I saw the pic, I just don't know WTF it's part of. It the drawing makes it look like part of the climate system, but why would that have an oil trap that needs heating?
 

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I updated the post. I think it's wrong also. Must be the electrical connector to the oil filter housing. Would have to take a look at wire colors.

Full list for 2010:
2/22 Relay, climate control system
4/46 Engine control module (ECM), 5-Cyl. Diesel
6/67 Fuel leakage control pump, 5-Cyl.
6/99 EGR motor, 1.6l Diesel, 1.8l Gasoline
7/17 Mass air flow sensor (MAF), 5-Cyl. Gasoline, 4-Cyl. Diesel
7/192 Water detection sensor, 4-Cyl. Diesel
8/6-8/9 Injection valves, 1.8l.
8/18 EVAP valve, Gasoline
8/19 Solenoid, variable valve timing, intake, 5-Cyl. Gasoline
8/28 Turbocharger control valve, 2.5l Turbo
8/45 Vacuum valve, variable intake manifold, 1.8l
8/65 Pressure switch, power steering, 1.6l
8/77 Fuel volume control valve, 2.0l Diesel
8/81 Solenoid, variable valve timing, exhaust, 2.5l Turbo
8/82 Solenoid, variable turbo geometry, 4-Cyl. Diesel
8/114 Valve, air/fuel mixing, 1.8l
8/132 Control valve, intake, 2.0l Diesel
9/32 PTC resistor, crankcase ventilation 5-Cyl. Gasoline
 

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Sounds like we have a solid suspect. Since it's Summer go ahead & unplug that resistor & see if your fuse blowing stops. It simply prevents vapor from freezing & clogging the PCV in extreme cold.
 

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I also had fuse 35 go bad. At the same time, and possibly because of it, my turbo'd car went into a limp mode. It would only produce maybe 30-40 horse power. Would do 70 mph on perfectly flat. On long uphill mountain freeway slopes no more than 30 mph in some cases. I'm from Ohio but was vacationing in Utah & Colorado. Took me about $1000 to get it taken care of. $650 to Dean Team of St. Louis who fixed it correctly, details below. $184 to Ken Garff Volvo in Salt Lake City that incompetently and totally misdiagnosed the problem (and I strongly suspect were fraudulent with me, but that's a another interesting story), plus another $175 on a Mass Air Flow sensor that I did not need, but bought due to Ken Graff's treatment of the problem.

Anyway, here I was driving back from Utah to Ohio with an engine putting out about 40hp, I stopped in at Dean Team in St. Louis. They put it onto the computer, and right away found that Fuse 35 was blown, AND my oil separator heater was marked to be working incorrectly, "pulling to much" they wrote on the work order, which I don't fully understand (electrically shorted, or open, as in too much resistance?...). Anyway, they replaced the oil separator, the whole housing - and a new fuse :)

Looks like cvkin155 & pczeilon were closing in on the probable cause of projectjim's original post problem.
 
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