[ferocity02]

The buttons on my key fob stopped working. I can still open the door with the blade key which sets off the alarm. The fob can still be used in the ignition to start the engine. I don't have a spare fob to try.

I replaced the battery in the fob which didn't work. Also tried unhooking the car's battery for an hour. All fuses look good.

Took the car to the dealer. They said the fob is transmitting and that the car has no trouble codes for keyless entry. While the fob is transmitting they are unable to determine the signa strength.

They are recommending a new fob which will run me $450 and doesn't even include the blade key. If the new fob doesn't fix the issue I don't get a refund, I'm stuck with another $450 paperweight.

Thoughts on how to proceed?

 

[Gregd]

It's nice having 2 keys. If I was having your issue the first thing I would do is grab my second key.

 

[ferocity02]

It's nice having 2 keys. If I was having your issue the first thing I would do is grab my second key.

Agreed, but not helpful at the moment.

 

[gotart]

See what the dealer wants to program another Fob. It shouldn't be $450- You can buy one on ebay and take it in to them to reprogram. From what you described it sounds like the dealer is unhelpful. Even with little signal strength it should work in very close proximity to the car( I am assuming).

 

[volvogod]

Most techs never look, see or even know that there was an older TJ for specific concerns/issues.
They are not wrong in replacing the remote, this will explain why, if non-keyless.
This TJ is for non-keyless, 2008-2009 only.
Non-keyless is you have to press the remote button to lock/unlock the door.,
Keyless is keep the remote in your pocket and open the door or press the black square rubber on the handle to lock.
In 2009 this TJ was updated w/o page 2, the pg 2 test may not work, it was a temp work around. I could never get it to work. The SI-counter was probably way off as described. You will probably have to replace the remotes. When programming a Volvo remote or key, it burns something into the key/remote bios that it can not be reprogrammed to another car.

 

[sklooner]

Not related to this but I know somebody with a c30 and an s40, they used the wrong key in the C30 ignition and it locked in and bricked, they had to get the dealer to reprogram something that was pricy

 

[ferocity02]

Well... the car is working again. The new programmed key fob did the trick; buttons work and it starts the car. The old fob buttons still don't work but does start the car, so this will be the spare.

Of course the fob didn't include the blade key, so had to order that too.

All said and done it was $750... robbery if you ask me but I'm just glad it's working. It's the wife's car, and her happiness is priceless especially on this Mother's Day weekend.

 

[avenger09123]

Not related to this but I know somebody with a c30 and an s40, they used the wrong key in the C30 ignition and it locked in and bricked, they had to get the dealer to reprogram something that was pricy

Do dealerships have to pay for the software updates like the rest of us plebes in VIDA?

 

[lntravler]

Well... the car is working again. The new programmed key fob did the trick; buttons work and it starts the car. The old fob buttons still don't work but does start the car, so this will be the spare.

Of course the fob didn't include the blade key, so had to order that too.

All said and done it was $750... robbery if you ask me but I'm just glad it's working. It's the wife's car, and her happiness is priceless especially on this Mother's Day weekend.

The board could corroded or some soldier get loose, which make it not working properly.

 

[NearMeThereIsAVolvo]

Most techs never look, see or even know that there was an older TJ for specific concerns/issues.
They are not wrong in replacing the remote, this will explain why, if non-keyless.
This TJ is for non-keyless, 2008-2009 only.
Non-keyless is you have to press the remote button to lock/unlock the door.,
Keyless is keep the remote in your pocket and open the door or press the black square rubber on the handle to lock.
In 2009 this TJ was updated w/o page 2, the pg 2 test may not work, it was a temp work around. I could never get it to work. The SI-counter was probably way off as described. You will probably have to replace the remotes. When programming a Volvo remote or key, it burns something into the key/remote bios that it can not be reprogrammed to another car.
View attachment 195433

View attachment 195435

I have a 2009 Volvo s40 that was experiencing a host of electrical issues and had tons of codes when I brought it to the shop. I cleaned the contacts for the CEM under the passenger dash and the fuses, which were very corroded, and haven’t had any issues since.
the problem I’m having is with the key: ever since my mechanic checked and cleared the codes, my (single) key doesn’t work. I have to unlock the door with the metal key and quickly start the car to shut off the alarm.
I have a feeling the above steps to “reload the CEM” would solve my key issue. Can I trust my mechanic to understand these steps or is there an affordable after market diagnostic unit I can buy to do this myself?

 

[80sGuy]

Yep! These keys are expensive overpriced! One of my keys went bad out of the blue the same way seven years ago and went to the dealer and it costed $308 total! Had to bring my other key so they can simultaneously programmed the new key to work. I now have two working keys and and two other dead keys, meaning it won't lock/unlock but will only start the car.

 

[evilgeniusdan]

---

 

[evilgeniusdan]

I have a 2009 Volvo s40 that was experiencing a host of electrical issues and had tons of codes when I brought it to the shop. I cleaned the contacts for the CEM under the passenger dash and the fuses, which were very corroded, and haven’t had any issues since.
the problem I’m having is with the key: ever since my mechanic checked and cleared the codes, my (single) key doesn’t work. I have to unlock the door with the metal key and quickly start the car to shut off the alarm.
I have a feeling the above steps to “reload the CEM” would solve my key issue. Can I trust my mechanic to understand these steps or is there an affordable after market diagnostic unit I can buy to do this myself?

You might know this but if you lock your drivers door with the physical key (instead of using the auto door locks then shutting the door), your car alarm won't activate, so it doesn't go off the next time you get in your car.

 

[evilgeniusdan]

You might know this but if you lock your drivers door with the physical key (instead of using the auto door locks then shutting the door), your car alarm won't activate, so it doesn't go off the next time you get in your car.

Obviously the downside is that your car alarm isn't activated if somebody tries to break in, but that may or may not matter to you.

 

[NearMeThereIsAVolvo]

You might know this but if you lock your drivers door with the physical key (instead of using the auto door locks then shutting the door), your car alarm won't activate, so it doesn't go off the next time you get in your car.

Thanks, I didn’t know that!