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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2008 V50 T5 with 110,000 mi. Interior VG, paint VG, worth fixing so I bought it for $1100. Timing belt let go due to oil leak or other cause. Car was towed to a garage and compression check suggested bent valves/ low or no compression on at least 1 cylinder per the story from the PO.

I haven't torn into it yet but I expect to find some bent valves and nicked pistons when I pull the head. Plan is to have the valves/Guides/seals replaced at the machine shop and carefully address any nicks in the pistons, put it back together and see what I've got at that point. Obviously, cracked pistons would be a different outcome and I can explore further options at that point if it comes to it.

This car came straight from Sweden. Original owner took a trip there and had it shipped to the US.

I still don't have enough posts to add attachments. What exactly is the post count required to post pics? Sheesh...
 

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2008 V50 T5 with 110,000 mi. Interior VG, paint VG, worth fixing so I bought it for $1100. Timing belt let go due to oil leak or other cause. Car was towed to a garage and compression check suggested bent valves/ low or no compression on at least 1 cylinder per the story from the PO.

I haven't torn into it yet but I expect to find some bent valves and nicked pistons when I pull the head. Plan is to have the valves/Guides/seals replaced at the machine shop and carefully address any nicks in the pistons, put it back together and see what I've got at that point. Obviously, cracked pistons would be a different outcome and I can explore further options at that point if it comes to it.

This car came straight from Sweden. Original owner took a trip there and had it shipped to the US.

I still don't have enough posts to add attachments. What exactly is the post count required to post pics? Sheesh...
Clayton NC - that is just down the road from me. I'm in Holly Springs NC!
 

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if your using tapatalk on you phone adding pics is easy, if your on you're computer make sure you use the "Go Advanced" options not just the quick reply box.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Long hiatus, sorry. Other priorities plus work insanity. I got started tearing it down last Saturday and made good headway. Intake side of the head is clear of all parts, everything off on the cam plugs end except the coolant line. Thought I'd better read up a little on what I can't see well on the exhaust side of the head. I put some light back there and took a video so I could get a survey and it looks really good. I about freaked when I saw the expansion areas on the manifold around cylinder 3. Reality check said it's supposed to be that way, lol. These have a really simple turbo arrangement, thankful for that. I realized I don't know how much boost they make but best guess is probably 6 lbs. They added 17.2cc of displacement to each cylinder compared to the B5244S4 I'm already familiar with (my daughter's '05 V50 2.4i that folks here were helpful with last fall).

Cam seal failed and puked a lot from what I can see, so that's why the PO had his problem with it. It's missing the top engine cover but I can probably find one at the local LKQ yard. I saw several P1 cars my last trip there. 2 of the coils have been fiddled with and have cracked collars. Hopefully they're not insanely expensive because I don't want to leave it like that.

For those who have had reason to unbolt the manifold/ turbo assembly, can you just lean it back and hold it out of the way with a couple of heavy duty bungee cords? Really my only question and that was my thought.

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
And a hello to my NC folks as well. :partywave:
 

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When you say simple turbo setup, this is what you mean:


Ours, requiring coolant, oil, TCV, CBV, and some kind of PRV in the housing to the OTE pipe, 85 broken studs in the heads, dropping the AWD box, are anything but simple. God I miss my Cummins. 1 oil line in and 1 out, 4 bolts to the header, disconnect intake and exhaust, it's out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Oh my sweet Jesus why is it so hard to find correct torque specs for the cam cover?? Who knows this spec? I'm cinched down and ready to torque. One source says 15 INCH pounds, another says "Camshaft bearing housing / valve cover: Torque to 14 Nm." which would be a more believable 10.3 ft. lbs. / 124 inch pounds.
 

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If it's not explicitly listed in Volvo literature then the value is the standard torque for the size of fastener. There is a table of those in the "general" section. 15 ftlb sounds about right.
 

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Oh my sweet Jesus why is it so hard to find correct torque specs for the cam cover?? Who knows this spec? I'm cinched down and ready to torque. One source says 15 INCH pounds, another says "Camshaft bearing housing / valve cover: Torque to 14 Nm." which would be a more believable 10.3 ft. lbs. / 124 inch pounds.
14 Nm sound right. I was thinking 17 Nm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
*@#$%&!!!!!!

So, back on this for the first time in over a month (I hate my job).

Next thing I need to do is pull off the cam position sensor reluctors so I can install the cam locking tool and pop off the VVT hubs to do a proper install of new cam seals. Last one of these I did the torx bolts for the reluctors were tight but came out with no issues. This car it seems McGilla Gorilla put these in. I've tapped on them, torched them, still won't come out, now intake side bolt is stripping. What else can I try before pulling the cam carrier cover back off and redoing that after a trip to the machine shop and buying new bolts???
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
...and hand impact wouldn't do it. 2-3" of hammer swing, even with the battery box out of the way just won't cut it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Tried a 1/4" impact. Only succeeded in destroying 2 good quality T30s. Intake side bolt now definitely stripped. I saw references to drilling out the center of the bolt to remove the head and dealing with the remainder. I'm skeptical but will try it. Common sense is telling me to go ahead and pull the cams back out before something worse happens...
 

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They can be tight. But if the torx lobes get wowed out by the early attempts, they don't usually hold up to the later ones. So drilling the bolt head is your only way.

You may find the shaft of the bolt simply unscrews, once the tension relieves when the head separates. Very common with many screw applications.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
They can be tight. But if the torx lobes get wowed out by the early attempts, they don't usually hold up to the later ones. So drilling the bolt head is your only way.

You may find the shaft of the bolt simply unscrews, once the tension relieves when the head separates. Very common with many screw applications.
You were right- I drilled them out carefully and the remainders came right out.

The job I hated so much isn't an issue now, lol. I found another one with 100% less toxic political BS and start next week. Meantime, I'm trying to get this car finished up. I think I saw reference to the part number for these bolts in another thread so I'm going to see if I can find it again. I'll probably have a few more quick questions as I go along.

One thing that springs to mind is if there's a way to test the oil trap/ breather off the car. The last V50 I dealt with had a blown diaphragm and was obvious with the car running. Anyone ever clean one out, replace a diaphragm with one of the kits available, and how did it last afterward?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
A tip for installing the exhaust manifold gasket: if you've got everything off the driver's side of the head and have the battery box out you can slip the newer 3 layer steel gasket in from the driver's side right between the manifold and the head and just guide it in place. I took a fairly long screwdriver and put it between the turbo housing and the bracket for the BOV. Pried back about 1/4 - 1/2" and put a wood shim between the screwdriver handle and cam carrier cover. What that did was give a slight relief/ clearance between the head and manifold to slide the gasket in. All 12 of the studs came out intact when I removed them, though I did have to double nut 2 of them. All this is after R&R of the head to have valves replaced.

I pulled off the PCV/ breather/ oil trap. I gently removed the top plastic cover with the locking tabs intact. There is a round label in the upper part of the housing, looks like it must be heat fused into a raised spot on the casting. Upper half of the circle says 2017, lower half says 26. I'm guessing that means either day 26 or week 26 of 2017 when it was made. to test the diaphragm, blow gently into the atmosphere side (external) of the round cap on top of the diaphragm. if air goes through, it's ruptured. This is the tiny rectangular hole that points toward the block. the PCV is inside the tubing on the lower side of the internals attached to the top plastic part of the assembly. It rattles and moves so it's like it should be. I cleaned it all up and reassembled it. Looks like I lucked out with a recent dealer replacement of this part.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Apologies for infrequent updates. I did finish reassembling this car in November, during Thanksgiving week. Last thing I did was gapp the plugs at .027-.028" and procure a good battery for it. It started immediately and runs very smoothly. No warning lights at all. Crankcase pressure is slightly negative so the PCV system is working normally. I took it for a few short drives around my neighborhood and then an extended drive in the countryside where I live. This car is VERY fun to drive. It needs 4 tires and could use a detail but it's a definite winner. All in I'm at $1910.00. I was going to sell it for maybe $4500- $5000 but now I'm thinking give it to my daughter who's already driving the other V50 (2005 2.4i) since she's been very responsible with that car for over a year. Then give the 2005 to my middle daughter, now 16. It's tempting to make it my car, too. My 2003 Accord I've driven since new in August 2003 now has 270k on the clock, though it's never any issues or maintenance at all that I couldn't take care of for a very small fraction of professional shop rates.

I'm now trying to get a response from a guy on Craigslist with a clean 2007 S40. Blown head gasket, wants 800 for it. :D
 
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