SwedeSpeed - Volvo Performance Forum banner

1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
26 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've got an '08 S80 T6 with its first 'I'm stumped' problem. I'm getting an ECM-P017100 (system too lean). It's too lean in bin 1,1 (idle basically), with the long term fuel trim going to 1.30 in that bin, but with all others being right around 1. No obvious vacuum leaks. However, I noticed high vacuum at the dipstick--it makes a sucking sound when pulling the dipstick out. I see the Volvo test shows that crankcase vacuum should be between -0.2 and -0.5 kPa. I'm getting -2 in Hg of vacuum (-6.7kPa) at the dipstick. I also notice an oil 'scunge' in the vicinity of the oil separator's pipe that goes to the intake pipe that feeds the turbo. Does this mean what I think it means (failed oil separator)?

Any other things I need to look at on this car? I've checked all the obvious piping with no results.

Thank you!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
563 Posts
How about the oil trap/breather box/PCV? How many miles on the car?

I just changed mine out on my 2010 S80 T6... as I noticed pressure was building up inside the engine, when the oil filler cap was removed. I didn't have any codes, but my oil trap was 'nasty'.

Check out the thread for 'PCV breather box' that I started, there are photos.

Just a thought. Hope you get it fixed!

Gregg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
26 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
That's what I'm looking at -- the 'valve cover'/oil trap/PCV...109K on this example, never missed an oil change, synthetic oil only. I've got no pressure, rather I have high vacuum. I seem to recall that the vacuum wasn't that high before, and I'm thinking the membrane may have failed with a hole in it or similar and it's passing manifold vacuum to the engine rather than regulating it--that's what I was hoping to find out from the community, whether this high a vacuum was normal or no, as VIDA is silent on that particular thing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
26 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
OK, so the oil trap was bad for sure. There was a vacuum leak at the little hole that the membrane uses for its pressure reference. New oil trap installed today and no more leak there, as well as significantly less crankcase vacuum...there's definitely a vacuum, but it's not 2 in Hg of vacuum, it barely tips my vacuum gauge into the vacuum range now (0.5 kPa vacuum is about 0.14 in Hg)...perfect. However, after resetting adaptives and test driving, the adaptives for area 1,1 are at 1.11 and I suspect climbing...so I still have an air leak somewhere. *&%$#@!

Any common trouble spots for air intake leaks, or do I just need to break down and have it smoked since I can't find any obvious leaks?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
26 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
OK, so I just wasn't patient enough: the long term fuel trim went up to 1.14 after a long drive today and later came down to 1.12 after a drive to and from the university. All's well.

Lesson learned: high vacuum at the dipstick might be just as obvious a sign of PCV failure as no vacuum at all...at least on P3 cars.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
462 Posts
OK, so the oil trap was bad for sure. There was a vacuum leak at the little hole that the membrane uses for its pressure reference. New oil trap installed today and no more leak there, as well as significantly less crankcase vacuum...there's definitely a vacuum, but it's not 2 in Hg of vacuum, it barely tips my vacuum gauge into the vacuum range now (0.5 kPa vacuum is about 0.14 in Hg)...perfect. However, after resetting adaptives and test driving, the adaptives for area 1,1 are at 1.11 and I suspect climbing...so I still have an air leak somewhere. *&%$#@!

Any common trouble spots for air intake leaks, or do I just need to break down and have it smoked since I can't find any obvious leaks?
So just to be clear, you did replace the oil trap on your car?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
26 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
So just to be clear, you did replace the oil trap on your car?
Yes, I did...took about an hour to do. It's not a terrible job; a U-joint and a short wobbler extension are needed to get a few of the T30 screws.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
563 Posts
Nice job VCA!

I think more folks here on SS should check their oil traps... even if proactively, to prevent possible 'future' issues. Especially on vehicles at or approaching 100k miles...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,927 Posts
Nice job VCA!

I think more folks here on SS should check their oil traps... even if proactively, to prevent possible 'future' issues. Especially on vehicles at or approaching 100k miles...
So what is the best way to check? Just the "rubber glove test" on the oil filler cap?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
563 Posts
So what is the best way to check? Just the "rubber glove test" on the oil filler cap?
Unfortunately, I did not do the rubber glove test (actually forgot to do so), but I ordered and replaced the oil trap per a dealer recommendation. I had the vehicle in for a key fob programming, and they told me there was 'pressure build up and release' when the oil filler cap was removed during a 24-point inspection.

When I checked the cost of the part (from memory ~ $100.00 or so, ordered mine from Amazon), I thought it "likely" needed replacement anyways... with the car having 100k on it. For the price (and condition the old one was in... yuck), I'm very glad I did it.

Again, sorry to report I did not do the glove test... just didn't think of it. Perhaps someone that does theirs next can do so. I would think that would be an early indicator of a PCV system becoming clogged, etc. Even if the 'glove test' doesn't prove or show anything... taking the actual oil trap part off was rather easy. Probably about 30min of time. The 'back side' bolts are a bit tricky, but once the air cleaner hose is out of the way... it was bad. If I could do it, I'm darn sure others here on SS can! HA! :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
26 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
So what is the best way to check? Just the "rubber glove test" on the oil filler cap?
If you have an accurate vacuum gauge available, that's the best way--take a reading at the dipstick tube with a warm engine, idle, A/C off. There should be between 0.2 and 0.5 kPA (0.03 and 0.08 PSI, or 0.06 and 0.15 inHg) of vacuum present. If there's pressure, that's a failure, if there's high vacuum (like 7 kPa / 2 inHg in my case), that's a failure. If there's vacuum leakage at the little breather hole, that's also a failure.

The rubber glove test is OK, just take care that the vacuum isn't *too* high...if you find the oil cap difficult to remove with a loud 'gasp' when you remove it, that's a sign that there's high vacuum, which should also be treated like a failure.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
57 Posts
VCA,

I have this same issue on my 2009 S80 with 90,000 miles. I get a noticeable sucking sound when I remove the oil cap with the engine running at idle indicating that there is high vacuum. I also have a slight oil smudge at the tube connecting the air intake and the oil trap. I have placed an order for the oil trap and will be replacing the part next week. I will update this thread with any changes in the crankcase vacuum.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
57 Posts
All,
I just replaced the pcv trap. The high vacuum at the oil fill port is gone, and instead I have just normal vacuum. If you place your hand with a rubber glove over the port with the engine running, you can tell approximately whether you have excessive vacuum. The S80 also seems to be a little quieter with the engine running. I did not remove the air intake hose but just moved it out of the way. I used a magnetic pickup tool to secure the back screws during the process of removal and installation. The replacement went smoothly thanks to SullyE's instructions.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
563 Posts
All,
I just replaced the pcv trap. The high vacuum at the oil fill port is gone, and instead I have just normal vacuum. If you place your hand with a rubber glove over the port with the engine running, you can tell approximately whether you have excessive vacuum. The S80 also seems to be a little quieter with the engine running. I did not remove the air intake hose but just moved it out of the way. I used a magnetic pickup tool to secure the back screws during the process of removal and installation. The replacement went smoothly thanks to SullyE's instructions.
SWEET! Glad to hear duovolvo... nice work. Glad I could 'help' somewhat. Good thinking on the magnetic pick-up tool!
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top