SwedeSpeed - Volvo Performance Forum banner

1 - 6 of 6 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
668 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok time for the first real question. Does anyone have a write up on how to replace the aux belt on these engines? I have done some searching and I see the 19mm cast lug, but i have read that just applying pressure there is not enough. I have also seen mention of a special tool... I am pretty sure the bearing on the tensioner pulley is on its way out. I have the bearing noise (hoping that it is not the CB shaft) and when I try to listen to it, the pulley is jumping around pretty good (can feel it when I put the end of the stethoscope on it), although you can not see it with your eyes. Thanks for the help.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
668 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·

·
Registered
Joined
·
668 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ok got the belt off. All you have to do is put a 19mm socket with breaker bar on the cast 19mm "nut" on the tensioner arm. Then I added a cheater to give me the ability to apply enough torque. Ideally I would have used an 18" breaker bar, but I don't have one. apply firm and constant pressure for about 15 seconds to compress the spring and dampener, you will only get about 30dgrs of rotation before hitting the stop. At that point I switched hands while maintaining pressure and with my right hand slid the belt off the upper idler pulley. I spun all three of the idler/ tensioner pulleys and the lower idler was rough and giving off a noise. Ran to local volvo dealer to pick up the lower pulley @ $119. Got home and took the idler pulley bolt out from the top with a lot of fighting and hand cramping, worked the old pulley off and it dropped against the fender liner and subframe. Now for the trick. The lower part of the finder liner is rubber and can be easily moved out of the way. I could easily stick my fat hand and arm up infront of the control arm behind the liner and install the new pulley and start the bolt and snug it down. (My legs were pointed towards the rear of the vehicle, just in case you want to try this) Then I moved back to the top with my ratchet to torque the bolt down, to tight enough ft-lbs. The next part is the PITA, you have to get the belt back on correctly, you get a lot of room be removing the engine covers, but it is still no fun. Once you get the belt over everything except the upper idler pulley you need to recompress the tensioner as before and then the belt will slide right over the upper idler. Make sure you put the fender liner back in place and the engine covers and you will be good to go.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
421 Posts
The key is to apply even pressure on the tensioner and wait. It can take up to 30 seconds or more before the tensioner is fully retracted, applying too much force can damage the tensioner.

The nut that holds the idler pulley on the tensioner is reversed thread, turn it clockwise to remove.

In my 06 V8, I had to disconnect the coolant line from the expansion tank to be able to replace the belt. VIDA is instructing to remove the power steering line instead.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
668 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The amount of torque was not great, I just had to extend the breaker bar so that I could apply constant pressure. Yeah to actually replace the belt it looked like that some hose mounting bolts, and some hoses would be disconnected Thankfully the belt had no cracking and looked to be in great condition.
 
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
Top