[spinall4]

I had ARD do it last year, They used the AW factory rebuild and this is what they did

Shift solenoid kit. Includes SLT, TCC, B1, C1, C2, C3 1 ( PArts wich were just under $600.00)
Install shift solenoid kit 4.20 hours Labor

Before the upgrade I was able to brake boost to about 4K then go, After I can only get it to 2500 rpm and it will hold it there. This was one of the best upgrades I have done to the car. I will post what we find in the hopes of saving people some money. I can say STAY away from the Level 10 ECu flash. A total waste of 200.00 . When I called them today I got no details just 'Sure our transmission will hold 500 awhp "

Ron we have talked about level ten before. I wouldn't give them a cent of my money. It was a LONG time ago but they got busted "building" the W4A33 in the auto AWD Talon, laser, and Eclipse. They would charge like $5,000 for a full trans with converter that was supposed to be "fully built" but in the end they were just doing a basic OEM level stock rebuild. They only thing that saved their asses in this case is that particular trans is fairly stout even from the factory.

My thoughts on the Volvo 6 speed GT auto trans are that it is pretty stout trans, way better than the 5 speed auto that it replaced. I'm not sure about if anyone actually makes a good billet high stall converter, we may be stuck with a re stalled stock unit other than that and having to do the VB fix these auto boxes seem to take a bunch of abuse.

If you wanted to go full balls out trans build you could do a high quality OEM rebuild like the Sonax stuff, and cryogenically treat the hard parts along with shot peening them or WPC process them. You could have a serious trans with out any fancy billet replacement parts. But I would not go down that path until I blew up a stock trans first.

 

[spinall4]

At that point I'd be looking for a wet clutch DCT to drop in... And adapt its mechatronic unit.

DCT trans looks good on paper, but I'm just not ready to own one yet. If you look at the Upkeep costs on them, it's crazy. The Mitsubishi one is supposed to have the fluid changed like every 10,000 mi and it's only supposed to be the Mitsubishi spec fluid that is crazy expensive. 6 liters, at $335 in just fluid. All of the other units are similar. I will stick with a normal Torque converter automatic trans. The 6 speed unit in the later R's is a pretty nice trans. Plenty of gears, shifts are quick and with the car switched into Advanced on the 4C it will stay in gear longer, and downshift sooner.

It's a far cry from the lazy slow 4 speed auto trans from the 90's.

So, dealer charges 4.1 hrs for valve body swap, which means I can do it myself it 12, right?

Does anyone know what all is involved? I've done a valve body swap in a GM 4spd Auto from the 80's and it was more or less a drop in. Does the trans have to come off the car to do it? Possible to do this job on jack stands/ramps without a proper lift?

I know for sure the trans pan it's self is not in the bottom of the trans like your probably used to. It kinda sits at at a 45 degree angle towards the front of the car. I want to say you have to at least lower the sub frame some to change out the valve body, but can't remember for sure.

It can't be too hard to DIY this VB, I will be doing it my self if mine ever gets bad. I have done a shift kit before on the W4A33 in the DSM, that was not bad at all. Just have to be patient so things don't get broken.

 

[spinall4]

Good thing I can handle my own legal fees. Also, class actions are all contingency and don't cost anything to the class members.

Why get a vb AND a transgo kit though? As for doing my own labor, I know how, I just don't have the space or tools.

It's one of those "while you are in there" things. It's probably only 1-2 extra hours of labor to do a shift kit with the valve body in hand (if that). Or 16 hrs of labor to do it from scratch and have to drop the valve body.

Never used Trans Go on the Volvo yet, but they made a decent shift kit for the DSM AT platforms.

About the same level of work as rebuilding a carb, not hard at all to do.

If you think you might ever want the shift kit, do it with the VB replacement.

 

[spinall4]

Stop it, both of you. Labor rates are different in different areas of the country. For example, I can't find anyone to do a brake flush for under 250 within a 50mi radius of my place, so I did it myself in about 90min w/ hand tools and a power flush, abs changed to stainless lines and installed splash guards at the same time. Back where I used to live, I could find the same labor for 80.

Parts process also differ, some shops will only order complex parts from the dealer.

If you can find your parts for less, good for you. I've looked everywhere around me and can't get any prices anywhere close to what's being discussed here. Which is why I'm considering a warranty. 3500 cost of warranty spread over 2yrs, covers a max of 12,500 in work done at the dealership. I figure once I get a vb replacement w/ lifetime warranty at the dealer, it'll be worth it. Angle gear, haldex, engine block, ac, radiator, 4C... All ticking...

Sent from my D6503 using Tapatalk

Do you have mods done to the car? If so, every warranty ever has fine print in them that says they don't cover cars that are modded or changed in anyway from factory and you warranty will be worthless at that point.

Sure some people try to get around this by changing the car back to stock when it's worked on, but what if you have an ongoing problem and the dealer/mechanic has to work in it several times. Are you going to uninstall the mods 3-4 times a year?

Just something to think about.