SwedeSpeed - Volvo Performance Forum banner

1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I reviewed all the relevant stickies, but didn't find the answer to my question.

Background: 2005 V50 FWD 2.4i model with ~115k miles on the odometer. So it's time to refresh the suspension.

I replaced shocks and struts at ~50k a while ago, but it's time to the rest of the suspension (and new shocks/struts).

Question: What are the common replacement parts in the rear suspension?

From what I can tell, the lower toe link, upper camber arm. But what about the bushings in the lateral arm (with spring seat) and the trailing arm bushing? Do those get pressed out?

Any brands to avoid or favor on parts? It is a commuter car, so not much interest in poly bushings or sport suspension bits.

I understand that there are Ford Focus parts that fit?

Decent web-stores?

(I have a BMW M Coupe w/ s52 motor. It's a track rat. So I've done just about everything but a tranny rebuild on that car.)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,738 Posts
Don't buy Moog P1 parts. They are crap.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,412 Posts
Basically, you'll want to check the strut mounts (which you should have already replaced with the struts), sway bar end links, the lower control arms, and tie rods. The rear trailing arms are normally fine, but can be replaced for cheap using mazda 3 parts.

oh, and MOOG end links are super beafy and have zerk fitings installed, making them serviceable.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,182 Posts
If you go w/ Moog rear endlinks, try to find the version that has the allen fittings on the bolts (like the OEM). The P/N was mentioned in a post on mazdaspeedforums but I can't seem to find it again. They'll be far easier to install than the 750069 version, which requires jamming a crows foot or open end wrench into the control arm. Otherwise you'll need to put a jack under the endlink to prevent it from spinning while you tighten the top bolt.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
So the Mazda 3 and the Ford Focus share the same suspension bits?

Nice tip on the Moog parts, thanks.

Will I need access to a press for any of the bushings?

Help me out on terminology.

It looks like I need part numbers:

2 (I'd call this a camber link - I'll probably install a camber bolt to remove some of the negative camber.)
3 (I'd call this a toe link)
5 (do I need a press for this part? - this one is a common wear part on 1990-mid 2000 BMW 3 series cars)
12 - does the inner bushing wear out and need to be replaced?

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,447 Posts
Yes you will need a press and I personally ordered the USA ford focus bushing kit and confirmed that it fits. I cant confirm the mazda 3 only the rear sway bar and end linksm
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,372 Posts
Here's the deal on the rear suspension. It will last considerably longer than the front. That said, 115/2005 is about time to look at some of it.
You'll want to check This Thread as it has many part numbers you'll be interested in.

1 Upper shock mounts & bump stops. These do go bad & cause a clunking from the trunk area. You might as well replace these if you are refreshing your shocks. Sport part numbers are linked above.
2 So called lateral links(#3). Here is a good write-up with Mazda part numbers. The bushings in these links have been updated & there is no longer a void like the old ones. Bushings are not available separately from Volvo.
3 Lower control arms(#12). Sport units with upgraded bushings are available. These bushings go pretty long but you may find your toe adjustment bolt(#15) or outer bolt(#11) seized to the inner bushing sleeve. This will cause you to ruin the bushing while trying to free them. Bushings are not available separately from Volvo.
4 Trailing arm bushing(#5) is available in sport form. This will require quite a bit of work & a shop press. Don't think anyone has taken the plunge on these. Not a common wear item.
5 Upper camber arms(#2) use a very robust bushing. The issue here is rear camber adjustment, not bushing wear. You can buy the SPC or similar if you want adjustment or use longer factory arms which move the camber 0.7* further positive.
6 Sway bar links vary depending on your bar type.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
687 Posts
lots of great info in here & I'm about to tackle the same project & thanks for tip on the trunk rattle I've been trying to figure that out for a while now ( not my daily driver so it hasn't annoyed me to much to dig in & find it.
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top