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2005 V50 2.4i FWD
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Took car in for alignment and was told that they will not do it unless I replace the lower ball joint.
The guy was hostile and annoying so once again, I figure it'd be best just to try to repair this myself...

I'm in some Volvo groups and spoke with two folks that said it might not even be the ball joint as there's no way to "see" if it's bad per se. There's no play on the tire when I jacked it up...

Anyway, if anyone has any input that comes to mind please let me know. I'm fully motivated to repair my car myself so any advice is appreciated. I also am aware that I may not be concise or making a lot of sense, at this point I'm brand new and clueless so... TIA
 

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This article will help you if you decide to replace it. I had a clunk from a loose bolt a few months back and couldn't get the control arm to make any noise with it jacked up, so I wouldn't be surprised if just hand shaking it could not reproduce play. These are known to go around 100k, but usually its the rear control arm bushing mostly causing the play.

 

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2005 V50 2.4i FWD
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7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
So the 12 and 6 delivered no play, then watching yt vids i learned about the 9 and 3 positions and theres def play there (see vid above). Also, a friend told me to use the wedged end of the lug nut remover tool (lol, what's it actually called?) to see if there's any play from the ball joint... then I noticed the rubber seals all fkd up, like falling off in pieces, not to mention theres strut fluid everywhere, so I'm gonna assume this right pass side system is basically fried.

Now, I can't imagine it's too difficult to fix this myself. Any advice on what tools I'd need to change this out my self? Even the mechanic said it'd be relatively easy for me to do. Not the strut replacement though, lol.
TIA
 

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It might be time to look into a full suspension refresh.

Our lower ball joints are riveted to the lower control arms. They can be drilled out and there are many videos on youtube showing how to do it. It's not a simple unbolt, picklefork out, and rebolt like some other cars can. I went with a full LCA replacement when I had a bad lower ball joint. Take a peak at the bushing on the rear of the LCA. Post a pic of it and someone here will tell you if you're better off replacing the whole thing. I assume you probably will be. Getting the bolts to line up with the rear bushings is not fun. And the front bolt on the passenger side is also pretty horrible.

It is between required and very much recommended that you mirror your suspension replacements on both sides.

With leaky struts you should probably also put new strut mounts on them. I went the full quick strut route.

I wouldn't call these jobs hard, but they are time consuming with periods of frustration that need to be overcome.
 
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