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Hey everyone, thanks for taking the time to help me through this ridiculous list of codes my 2005 S60R is throwing


ECM-280C - Fuel pressure sensor. Signal too high
ECM-120D - Mass air flow. Signal too low
ECM-121B - Mass air flow sensor - Flow too low
ECM-216D - Long term fuel trim, bank 1. Signal too low
ECM-4400 - Fuel level sensor. Faulty signal
ECM-21E0 - Long-term fuel trim, bank 1. Faulty signal
ECM-280B - Fuel pressure sensor. Signal missing

ABS-0136 - Brake pressure sensor 1&2. Signal outside its permitted range

CEM-6E01 - Switch, fuel tank filler cover. Faulty signal (button activated door release is broken and needs to be replaced - known issue)
CEM-4F01 - Read Button. Activated too long

UEM-0004 - Siren. Communication fault (alarm is bad - known issue)

DDM-0025 - Mirror motor. Signal Missing

CCM-0061 - Recirculation damper motor. Internal fault
CCM-0062 - Left temperature damper motor. Internal fault
CCM-0063 - Right temperature damper motor. Internal fault
CCM-0004 - Passenger compartment temperature sensor. Signal too high/Signal missing

DEM 000B - Oil Pressure. Incorrect value


P0193 - Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor A Circuit High
P0101 - Mass or Volume Air Flow A Circuit Range/Performance

Car runs fine outside of the same issue everyone has between the MAF sensor, or the Fuel Rail sensor. I have pulled the MAF sensor before and sprayed it down. The issue went away. I did it again about two weeks ago, and it didn't do anything to rectify the issue. The previous issue was rough idle, and rough acceleration/cruising speed. Now it is doing the lurching thing when giving it too much gas. This will occur at different RPMs, and speeds. No rhyme or reason, but usually when surpassing 50mph. I am also having a hard time with the heat/air temps. Looks like a damper issue, but I have no clue as to where to start with that one. Outside of the thermostat, I have no clue why it is throwing other codes...the car seems to run just fine barring the potential that there is a faulty fuel pressure sensor (and with the multitude of MAF codes, maybe that too).

Does anyone have any legitimate ideas of how I can test any of the parts, before replacing everything? Maybe trying to ohm out sensors to see if they're bad, etc. before replacing them.

Just looking for a little direction, I was not expecting to see that many codes when I ran the diagnostic. Thanks in advance!!!
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