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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I have searched and searched but before I start replacing all sorts of sensors and parts I want to get some opinions. I bought this R (auto)(DUH!) a couple months ago and replaced lower control arms/ball joints, strut mount and bearings, oil chg, air filter and plugs (VOLVO OEM). Ever since I have had it the power just doesn't seem to be there (even before any work was performed), i was beat by a 2006+ Civic type R, which was embarrassing to say the least. Recently when I am driving I have these issues all with NO check engine light...

1. While driving it falls on it face and picks back up falls on its face and picks back up to "normal for me" power.
2. It sometimes seems to have a miss at idle VERY seldom.
3. Sometimes it feels like there is little to no boost from the turbo
4. Fuel mileage is around 17.5 city and hwy combined and I rarely get on it (not sure if this is normal).
5. When you punch it I feels very jolty, for instance: from 0-hit WOT-get 50%-60%-70%-60%-80% and then it shifts like a drunken granny...

I have read that it could be a boost leak, Fuel pressure sensor, ignition coil, fuel pump.... I am pretty well versed in cars and I must inquire if Volvo's store a code WITHOUT a CEL? Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
 

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I would definitely check your coil packs and for boost leaks. It could be a fuel pressure sensor, but leave that for last as it won't be cheap. Shouldn't have gotten an auto though. :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I kick myself in the head everyday for not buying a manual except in traffic (which is not that often!), I have priced the FPS for $126 and if it will fix my problem I will buy it! Is there a way to check the coils to see if they are bad/worn out?
 

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Take it to get it run in in ViDA, just cause there is no CEL doesn't mean it didn't throw an internal code; though usually something sever as you say usually throws a code.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
PM sent..... I wouldn't mind taking it somewhere to get the codes read but I know they are going to charge $100 or more to get them and that may not even tell me what the problem is. The transmission all has a hard time shifting at WOT.... hummmm I hope I didn't buy a lemon!
 

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Buy a Bluetooth OBDII thing. Buy the Torque App, it will measure MANY things. I got one on amazon for 18$ shipped, and the app is 5$. You can check codes, delete codes, data log, view LOTS of real-time data, and track your speed on roads, trip, etc etc.

http://www.amazon.com/Soliport-Blue...qid=1349148997&sr=8-3&keywords=bluetooth+obd2

http://torque-bhp.com/

Honestly, take out your front O2 sensor (22mm wrench) and leave it out, take it for a drive, and see if the power is better. DONT go crazy though (as your engine bay will get REALLY HOT). Do one pull, in just 1st or 2nd gear, you will notice immediately if there's a major difference. If you have the Torque app, your catalyst temperatures at idle shouldn't be over 700-800F, if it's in the 1,000F range or higher, then you know that's your problem.

IF you have a large power increase, you have a clogged cat. Which means you just bought yourself the rights to a new 3" downpipe with no cat or a race cat! :D

With torque, you can also monitor your FPS, which should be 43.5 or around there. If it fluctuates, or is low, you know that's the issue. Buy the obd2 thing and app before you drop 100$+++ on a new regulator that might not even fix the issue.

Based on your symptoms, that's what I'd do first. You have 95K so this is a serious possibility. I had to replace the one on my S40 at 89K, and I just replaced a cat on a G6 with 110K. It was so clogged it couldn't drive over 40 MPH because it had so little power. Took out the O2 and it drove like normal, besides being loud.
 

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I kick myself in the head everyday for not buying a manual except in traffic (which is not that often!), I have priced the FPS for $126 and if it will fix my problem I will buy it! Is there a way to check the coils to see if they are bad/worn out?
I spent about half of that for a FPS.. you may want to look around.. And yes, if you can run Vida and get more info, it would save you from purchasing a part you don't need.. Trust me.. I bought stuff I didn't need because I thought it was fix it.. Best thing I ever did was buy Vida and Dice.
 

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I spent about half of that for a FPS.. you may want to look around.. And yes, if you can run Vida and get more info, it would save you from purchasing a part you don't need.. Trust me.. I bought stuff I didn't need because I thought it was fix it.. Best thing I ever did was buy Vida and Dice.
Or 25$ for Torque and a bluetooth OBD2
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I will have to look into both, if they both do the same EXACT thing then I will probably do the cheaper one. What does ViDA feature? I found that the Fuel Pressure Sensor runs $400 at a dealer, $200 volvo seller and cheapest $126 from the listed website... I now there is also a "dampener" that goes for about $40, is that what you all are talking about? I am a bargain shopper so I am sure I found the cheapest unless I can be proven wrong which would be ok by me! So no other ideas or similar issues with anyone else's R's that could shed some light?
 

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I will have to look into both, if they both do the same EXACT thing then I will probably do the cheaper one. What does ViDA feature? I found that the Fuel Pressure Sensor runs $400 at a dealer, $200 volvo seller and cheapest $126 from the listed website... I now there is also a "dampener" that goes for about $40, is that what you all are talking about? I am a bargain shopper so I am sure I found the cheapest unless I can be proven wrong which would be ok by me! So no other ideas or similar issues with anyone else's R's that could shed some light?
A fuel pressure sensor you can get for under $90, a Regulator is entirely different.
 

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Don't rely on what the data reader/VIDA/etc. give as pressure. The problem is the sensor gets biased and it will show 400kPa absolute (take off 100 kPa for gauge pressure from a fuel gauge) but the actual pressure will be not be 300 on a gauge but maybe 220 or thereabouts (100 kPa is 14.5 psi +/-). The ECM thinks it is good and gives a duty cycle to the PEM to control pump but it is really giving too low fuel pressure. You won't have a code unless the the FPS gets biased enough that the ECM signal goes out of the accepted signal range.

The fuel pressure on R's will be higher above above a certain engine load so if you drive it and see the pressure go higher and then go lower when you get out of throttle and idle that is OK.
 

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Or 25$ for Torque and a bluetooth OBD2
I went with Dice because I didn't have an android phone.. But I do have a wired and bluetooth OBD2 with all kinds of software for it.. I just ended up liking Dice more because of all the other stuff like sum calibration and etc.. I couldn't get with the obd reader/software...:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Ok this is what I think is a FPS:
http://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-fuel-pressure-sensor-map-sensor-0261230110 Love the :Save -$44!!! LOL

The dealer I am buying from doesn't show a picture for $126. Anyone have a website to buy this cheaper? I think it has to strongest chance of being my issue... Everything seems fuel related but Wednesday morning I will pop the hood and search for some boost leaks and clean the MAF (with proper cleaner) and see if that helps.
 

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Ok this is what I think is a FPS:
http://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-fuel-pressure-sensor-map-sensor-0261230110 Love the :Save -$44!!! LOL

The dealer I am buying from doesn't show a picture for $126. Anyone have a website to buy this cheaper? I think it has to strongest chance of being my issue... Everything seems fuel related but Wednesday morning I will pop the hood and search for some boost leaks and clean the MAF (with proper cleaner) and see if that helps.
R Photo can get them cheaper. Just talk to him.
 

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NAPA CRB 2260017 in their Echlin line. $75.49 Most NAPA stores can have the part overnight if not on the shelf in store. 3 year/36 mo warranty. The one I installed on a 2005 XC70 was a Bosch part in the box a couple of years back (and it was less than $70 then too).
 

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NAPA CRB 2260017 in their Echlin line. $75.49 Most NAPA stores can have the part overnight if not on the shelf in store. 3 year/36 mo warranty. The one I installed on a 2005 XC70 was a Bosch part in the box a couple of years back (and it was less than $70 then too).
IIRC they just started stocking that again, good call.

 

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I am having a VERY similar problem with my R. It's very frustrating as a former tech not to have the tools at my disposal to attack a problem such as this one. I too have no codes that would be readable through a generic scan tool but I did notice my fuel pressure fluctuating yesterday on an extended drive. After talking to a few people we started thinking MAF so I swapped it yesterday without any change. I also tried a new TCV that did not change it either. I'm in the process of tracking down an FPS today and I'll post back here if it changes anything.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I almost got into a accident today because it just flat out died. I have a very strong feeling it is the FPS but I am going to check the CAT as well. It was weird because it had A LOT more power for about 5 minutes then it did its little number and went back to slow and STILL no CEL. I hope you find the cause!
 
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